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CHARLES WILLIAM WASON
COLLECTION
CHINA AND THE CHINESE
THE GIFT OF
CHARLES WILLIAM WASON
CLASS OF 1876
1918
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SHANGHAI
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TO THE
CHIEF OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN AND AROUND THE
FOREIGN SETTLEMENTS AND*
NATIVE CITY(£?
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REV. C. E. DARWENT, M.A.
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WITH MAP AND 64 ILLUSTRATIONS
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SHANGHAI, HONGKONG, SINGAPORE, & YOKOHAMA
' 1 " nit
: -I I i.
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PREFACE
THE need of a Guide to Shanghai has been felt for a
long time. Numerous inquiries have been made for
one both by new residents and tourists, who, since the
Boxer outbreak in 1900, have visited Shanghai in increasing
numbers. The days for passing direct from Hongkong to
Japan are gone by, and the growing popularity of the Siberian
Railway, the service of which is but temporarily suspended, is
likely to make Shanghai the starting-place for a large number
of residents in the Far East, selecting that route for their
return to Europe.
In compiling this work I have kept in mind the needs
of tourists. This is a Guide to, not a History qf, Shanghai.
That is why I have placed purely historical matters last. I
trust that the plan adopted of giving the first place to
matters l that the raw new arrival needs to know will commend
itself.
In drawing up the plan of this work there were two
courses open to me : that which I have adopted, giving in-
formation about the sights of Shanghai in the text of the
different routes ; or I might have grouped the information
about the sights under heads — placing all information, about
temples for instance, together. The method I have adopted
is, I think, the better. It saves continual reference to the
index, compelling the visitor to be always turning from one
part of the book to the other. As it is, the Central district,
for example, may be done in an orderly way, sights of all
Preface
kinds following in their local sequence, involving the minimum
of leaf turning.
I have to thank the secretaries of the various clubs and
societies for so readily giving me the information required ;
and Mr. D. Satow and Mr. G. R. Mitchell for the use of
a number of very interesting photographs.
In regard to the work generally, as no other guide to
Shanghai on a similar plan exists, I have had laboriously
to gather information as best I could myself. If there are
mistakes, as there are likely to be, those who have attempted
a similar task will be most indulgent. When one has to
deal with such multitudinous items some mistakes are
inevitable.
In regard to the Chinese names of temples, etc., I have
written them as pronounced by a local Chinese scholar.
I believe, too, the book will be of use not only to tourists
and newcomers, but also to large numbers of residents of
long standing, who have often no idea of the interesting things
to be seen in Shanghai. If I have succeeded in dissipating
the idea thai "there is nothing worth seeing in Shanghai,"
I shall be satisfied. I believe that our temples and guild-
houses, for instance, are much more beautiful and imposing
buildings than any in Japan, saving only the Shoguns'
" Tombs '' at Tokio and Nikko.
C. E. D.
CONTENTS
Introductory
i. Pidgin-English
2. Money
3. Weights and Measures .
4. Banks
5. Hotels and Restaurants
6. Consulates
7. Post and Telegraph Offices
8. Books and Maps
9. Newspapers and Periodicals
10. Jinrickshaws and Carriages
11. Shipping Communication
12. European and Native Stores
II
Routes with Chief Objects of Interest
1. Foreign
1. The Bund ....
2. Central District . . ....
3. Bubbling Well Road . . . .
4. Northern District, East of North Szechuen Road
5. Northern District, West of North Szechuen Road
6. Broadway to the Point
7. Sinza .... . .
8. The Country Roads ... ...
9. Drive to Siccawei ...
10. Drive to Loongwha Pagoda
11. French Settlement, East. Quai de France .
12. French Settlement, West. Rue du Consulat
page
i
v
vii
vii
viii
xi
xiii
xv
xvii
1
12
28
40
52
60
68
75
77
81
94
97
2. Chinese
1. Suburb of Nantao. 106
2. Interior of Native City 112
3. Walk Round Walls of City 124
Contents
3. Outside Excursions
1. POOTUNG .
2. WOOSUNG
3. Houseboat Excursions .
. 129
132
136
III
Public Institutions
1. Churches. . ....
2. Missions .
3. Schools . . . .
4. Freemasonry
5. Theatres and Places of Entertainment
6. Parks and Gardens
7. Public Library
8. Chinese Festivals
9. Volunteers
Police
Fire Brigade
Public Band
143
145
149
'Si
152
153
15S
IS6
iS9
160
161
162
IV
Clubs and Associations
1. National and Local ...
2. Social
3. Literary and Scientific
4. Professional and Business
5. Philanthropic ...
6. Sporting . . .
V
Historical and Descriptive
General Description and History of Shanghai
a. History of District
b. Physical Features
c Meteorology
d. Health . . . ,
e. History of Native City
/ History of Foreign Settlements
g. American Settlement . . . .
h. French Settlement . ...
i. Government of the International Settlements
j. Commerce
163
165
171
173
174
177
'95
'95
196
198
199
200
201
207
208
210
212
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
i. British Consulate.
2. Iltis Memorial ....
3. Sir Harry Parkes's Monument .
4. Custom House ...
5. Hongkong and Shanghai Bank .
6. Shanghai Club ...
7. Native Store, Nanking Road
8. Nanking Road
g. Town Hall
10. Louza Police Station .
11. Honan Road ...
12. Chinese Actor
13. Chinese Actress
14. Native Doorway, Ningpo Road .
15. Central Police Station
16. The Cathedral — Holy Trinity Church
17. Union Church . ...
18. Sikh Mounted Trooper
19. Race Club
20. Country Club
21. Chang Su Ho's Gardens
22. Chang Su Ho's Gardens, Arcadia Hall
23. Yu Yuen Gardens
24. Two of the "Four Brothers" .
25. German Consulate and Church.
26. Street Scene . . ...
27. Soochow Creek
28. Dye House, Seward Road
29. Hongkew Market ....
30. Group of Women .
PAGE
4
9
10
IS
16
17
18
19
21
22
24
26
29
3i
32
34
35
36
37
40
41
42
44
45
48
List of Illustrations
31. Shanse Bankers' Guild House .
32. Garden Bridge
33. Astor House Hotel: Exterior .
34. Astor House Hotel ; Interior .
35. In the Soochow Cemetery, Sinza Road
36. Graves in the Cantonese Cemetery .
37. Idol, Loongwha Temple
38. Loongwha Pagoda .
39. French Consulate.
40. French Bund .
41. Chinese Tumblers .
42. French Town Hall
43. Women going to Worship .
44. North Gate of Native City
45. North Gate from the Inside
46. View in Nantao
47. Tower in Swatow Guild-House, Nantao
48. Chinese Bund — Women Washing
49. Sampan Woman ...
50. North Gate of Native City
51. Native City Temple
52. City Gardens — Dragon Gate
53. Willow-Pattern Tea House
54. In the Native City
55. Shrine, City Temple .
56. View in Native City .
57. Slightly Congested
58. Stone Carving on Roofs in the City Gardens
59. Chinese Architecture in the City Gardens .
60. Sampan
61. Irrigation Wheel .
62. Dragon Boat .
63. Foochow Junk
64. Shanghai Junks
Map in Pocket at the End
SECTION I '
INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION
Pidgin-English
IT is quite possible for the traveller to visit all the places
and see all the sights mentioned in these pages without
knowing a word of Chinese, but he will find that familiarity
with pidgin-English will be of very great assistance. A good
account of the origin of pidgin-English is given in Hunter's
"The Fanquse at Canton." It is substantially this : Pidgin-
English arose at Canton. The first foreign traders had neither
inclination to learn Chinese nor facilities for it. The Chinese
Government cut off the head of any Chinaman who presumed
to teach the foreigner Chinese. The astute Chinaman himself
was, however, equal to the situation, and gradually evolved a
language made up of foreign and Chinese words, put together
without syntax or grammar, " conforming them to his own
monosyllabic form of expression."
Pidgin-English is an unique use of English or other foreign
words with the Chinese idiom. The traveller must remember
that pidgin-English is not, as is often fondly thought by the
visitor, easily made by adding "ee" to any and every word.
This mode of speech no doubt started in the days of the early
Portuguese traders, one hundred years anterior to the arrival
of the English at Canton ; that is proved by the number of
Portuguese words in it.
When, however, the English appeared on the scene, English
words were adopted by the Chinese in the largest numbers,
and the dialect or. lingo became known as pidgin-English.
Pidgin is a corruption of business, so pidgin-English means
business English. It is widely employed for any kind of
Pigdin-English
affair: "this is a bad business" is, "this b'long very bad
pidgin." Compradore is from the Portuguese coinpra, to buy ;
joss, for god, from dios; maskee, never mind, from masque,
never mind; junk, from the Portuguese sound of chueng, in
the dialect of the coast where they traded. Of Indian words
we have shroff, a money dealer, or now a money expert;
tiffin, lunch ; godown, warehouse, from kadang; lac, coolie, chit.
There are many Chinese words in it : for instance, chop,
from cho, a document — it means a bill, a stamp, or a receipt ;
chow, for food, is also a Chinese word, and kumshaw, a gratuity,
means golden sand.
A good rule for visitors to Shanghai and the Treaty Ports
is to try the natives with ordinary English first ; if that fails,
speak pidgin-English. The dignity of the native is much
ruffled if he is addressed in pidgin when he understands
ordinary English.
General Rules. — Put the object first and use only the
nominative case of pronouns, he, she ; " talkee he " means
" tell him." Use my for me, discard grammar, and talk in
roots of words and monosyllables.
USEFUL SENTENCES
I. General
That will do . . . Can do.
That will not do . . No can do.
(These have a very wide
application.)
That is better . That b long more better.
Who is that (it) ? . What man ?
What is that ? . . . What thing ?
Tell him Talkee he.
Give me that . Pay my.
I don't want it . My no wanchee.
There That side.
Here . . . This side.
Please let me know . . Talkee my.
Just let me look . . . Pay my look see.
Do you understand? . . Savvy?
Pidgin-English
I don't understand .
Can you teli me what this is ?
Go and see, and come back and
tell me
That won't do .
Where is it ? .
Where is that from ?
What o'clock is it ? .
I don't know .
Wait a bit
Be quick.
Come at once .
This is mine .
Stop that
Never mind
That is a bad job .
Business (or any kind of affair)
Religion ....
Is Mr. at home ? .
Is Mrs. at home ?
He (she) is not at home .
Can you do this for me ? .
Why not ?
Go upstairs
Go downstairs .
I have left my hat downstairs
go and get it for me
Tell him to come back .
Tell him to come in the morning
Do you mean it ? .
What do you mean by that ? .
Afterwards (by-and-bye) .
I will pay you later .
I am afraid it is going to rain .
I don't want to do this
I want it like that .
This is very good .
My no savvy.
What thing this b'long ?
You look see talkee my.
No b'long ploper (proper).
What side ?
What side catchee ?
What time ?
My no savvy.
Man man.
Auso.
Come chop chop.
This b'long my.
No can do.
Marskee.
That b'long bad pidgin.
Pidgin.
Joss pidgin.
Mas'r have got ?
Mississy have got ?
No have got.
Can do ?
What fashion no can ?
Go topside.
Go bottomside.
Go catchee hat downside.
Talkee he come this side.
Talkee come morning time.
Talkee true ?
What fashion ?
Bime bye.
Bime bye makee pay.
My too muchee fear makee
rain.
Too muchee trouble pidgin.
Wanchee all same.
This b'long number one.
Pidgin-English
How are you?. . . . ) Chin-chin (a greeting gene-
Good-bye . . . . / rally).
Tell the cook to prepare dinner "I Talkee cook three piecee
for three to-day . . . / man dinner.
If you cannot do it, I must get ~i S'pose you no can do, must
some one else . . . / catchee 'nother man.
Bother; to find fault with . Bobbery.
If you don't do this, you will get ) S'pose no do, my makee
into trouble . . . . j largee bobbery.
II.
Get me a rickshaw
Stop
Put the rickshaw down
Go to the Bund
Nanking Road
Kiukiang Road
Hankow Road
Foochow Road
French Settlement .
Broadway
Go quicker
Be careful
Jinrickshaws
. Catchee my one piece rick-
shaw.
. Man-man.
. Faung au lay.
Bund (if that fails, try Whang-
poo).
. Maloo ; Doo-maloo.
Nee-maloo.
San-maloo.
. Sz-maloo.
. Feranghi ; Fa-lan-zi.
. Hongkew.
Auso ti.
Dong sing.
III. At an
Get me some hot water .
I want a bath ....
Is there a barber in the hotel ?
I want some tea at once .
A tip
Show me my room .
Get me a washerman
Call me at 7 o'clock
I want to go for a walk .
Hotel
Pay my hot water.
My wanchee bath.
Barber have got ?
Catchee tea chop-chop.
Kumshaw.
What side my room ?
Catchee my one piece wash*
man.
Morning time talkee my 7
o'clock.
My wanchee walkee.
Pidgin-English
Will you be sure to do it ? . Can secure ?
Get me a carriage with one pony Catchee carriage one piece
pony.
IV. Shopping
How much is that ?
Which is better, this or that ? ,
I'll give you two dollars for it .
Is that the genuine price ?
I don't want that
This is what I want
That is too dear
Show me another kind
I will take two of them .
Will it be cheaper to take two ?
What is this used for ?
I don't like that
Is this the best quality ? .
Is that the lowest price ? .
I can't take any lower price ? .
Can you make an allowance on
damaged goods ? .
Is the bargain settled ?
How muchee ?
AVhat piecee more good ?
My can pay two dollars.
That price b'long true ?
My no wanchee.
So fashion my wanchee.
Too muchee dear.
Pay my look see 'nother
fashion.
Pay my two piecee.
S'pose catchee two piecee,
can more cheap ?
What this b'long ?
No likee.
This b'long more better ?
No can cuttee ?
True b'long bottomside, last
time talkee.
You can lolly my ?
Can puttee book ?
V. At a Photographer's
I want these twelve plates de- } Twelve piecee wanchee wal-
veloping . . . . i lop.
How much a plate ? . . One piecee how much ?
Can you send this to my hotel ? Hotel side can sendee ?
Money
Travellers will find two kinds of money used in Shanghai
and the treaty ports — taels and cash, dollars and cents ; the
former Chinese, the latter introduced by foreigners and now
freely used by the Chinese in the ports.
Money
The tael is the commercial currency of the port ; it is used
in large transactions, in piece-goods, in auctions, buying and
selling land, etc. It is not a coin, but a weight of silver.
Once worth 6s. &d., it is now worth only about 2s. 6d. English
money. Steamer fares on the coast are also generally in taels.
The tael is divided into 10 mace, and i mace equals 10 can-
dareens or tael cents. The tael is therefore on the decimal
system, divided into ioo tael cents. The traveller, however,
will not have much to do with taels nor with cash (copper
coins with a square hole in the centre, which have preserved
their shape for over a thousand years). There are about 1,100
cash to the tael.
A string of cash is handy on houseboat excursions to buy
native produce. There are many places up-country where the
natives have no knowledge of any other currency.
The most universally used coin is the Mexican dollar ($) ; a
handsome piece of silver. There are ioo cents to the dollar.
Subsidiary coins are 20 cent, 10 cent, and 5 cent pieces.
The traveller must avoid other dollars, such as the Hongkong
and Singapore dollar, as they are at a discount. Jinrickshaw-
men and Chinese will accept Hongkong 5 cent pieces, but not
as a rule 10 and 20 cent pieces.
All the leading banks issue notes for one, five, ten dollars,
and upwards. These notes are the most convenient method of
carrying money. As the Mexican dollar weighs about an ounce,
not many can be carried with comfort.
In dealing with money, the traveller must look out for
himself. The Chinese have an ingenious method of cutting off
the face of a dollar, filling it with base metal, and soldering the
face on again. One can generally tell by the ring of the coin.
The small coinage is also subject to forgery. The rule is not
to have more small money than necessary ; and if in paying a
'rickshaw coolie 20 cents, he returns it, saying "blass" (brass),
the chances are he is right, and it is best to give him another.
The majority of Mexican dollars in circulation have a
" chop '' or mark of some business firm on them. This is
supposed to mark their genuineness. Chinese shroffs are
past-masters at testing coinage.
Banks
It is useful to know that roughly the tael is one-third more
than the dollar.
The rates of exchange are published in the morning papers.
Tables of exchange may be purchased.
Silver coins in circulation at Shanghai and other treaty
ports : —
Mexican dollar, worth about is. gd. to is. nd.
20 cent piece ,, „ \d.
10 „ „ ,, „ 2d.
The tael (worth about 2s. 6d.) is a weight of silver.
The cash is a copper coin (worth about 800 to the Mexican
dollar).
Weights and Measures
The English pound (avoirdupois) and yard are used in all
foreign and Chinese stores that a stranger is likely to visit.
The Chinese weights and measures most frequently em-
ployed are the catty (13 lb.), the picul (1333 lb.), and the mow
(equals about one-sixth of an acre).
Banks
Banque de l'lndo-China — 1, Quai de France, "corner du Yang-
king-pang."
Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China — 18, The Bund.
Deutsch-Asiatische Bank — 14, The Bund
Guaranty Trust of New York — 7, Kiukiang Road.
Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation — j. 2, The Bund.
Imperial Bank of China — 8, The Bund.
International Banking Corporation — 7, Kiukiang Road.
Mercantile Bank of India — Care of Jardine, Matheson & Co.
Netherlands Trading Society — 20, The Bund.
Russo-Chinese Bank — 15, The Bund.
Sino-Belgian Bank — 13, Hankow Road.
Yokohama Specie Bank— 31, The Bund.
The ordinary office hours are from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. All
these banks exchange money, grant drafts, and transact all the
business required by travellers.
Hotels
It is as well to note that the banks are closed on about
twenty days in the year : four days at China New Year (end of
January or early February) ; Good Friday to and including
Easter Monday ; the Chinese Dragon Festival (end of May or
•early June) ; Whit Monday ; first two days in July ; Chinese
Mid-Autumn Festival; two days (early in October) ; Christmas
Day and Boxing Day and the day following ; New Year's Day
and day following.
Chinese Banks
Visitors would be interested in inspecting one or two
Chinese banks. For ages the Chinese have had many of the
banking facilities which are comparatively recent in the West.
The leading banks have ramifications all over the empire. By
their means large sums are transmitted not only to native
merchants, but to missionaries and others in the remotest
corner of the empire. In fact, without the facilities given by
their institution foreigners in out-of-the-way places could not
be paid at all. Their notes, bills, etc., are freely and un-
questionably accepted by the foreign merchants in Shanghai
and the treaty ports. Most of the Shanghai native bankers
belong to the province of Shansi or the city and neighbourhood
of Ningpo.
The following is one of the leading bankers :
The Hen Tee Tsong — Ningpo Road.
Hotels
Astor House— This hotel, founded by the late Mr. D. C.
Jansen, is situated on the Whangpoo Road, immediately
over the Garden Bridge. It caters for first-class travel
only ; it is now owned by a company, and has been
largely refitted, and much enlarged by a considerable
addition at the rear of the main building. It has the
advantage of possessing a garden overlooking the river.
Tariff on application.
viii
Hotels
Central Hotel — On the Bund, at the corner of the Nanking
Road, with annexe over the way on Nanking Road.
This hotel commands a splendid view over the river
and Bund. Rooms, $5 per diem and upwards ;
breakfast, 75 cents, or $18 per month ; tiffin, $1, or
$23 per month; dinner, $i - 5o, or $25 per month;
full board, $50 per month.
Mercantile and Family Hotel — 18, Nanking Road. To reach it,
go up Nanking Road, cross the Szechuen Road, and
this hotel is up an entry, just past Watson's store.
Tariff on application.
Hdtel des Colonies — 72, Rue Montauban, in the French Settle-
ment. Cross to the French side of the Yang-king-
pang Creek, and go up the Rue du Consulat. Rooms,
$5 to $12 a day for one person, $10 to $15 for two
persons; breakfast, $075 ; tiffin, $1; dinner, $r ;
breakfast and tiffin, $30 a month ; tiffin and dinner,
$40 a month; tiffin or dinner, $25 a month; full
board, $45 a month. The term for rooms are subject
to arrangement.
Metropole Hotel — One mile from the Bund, up the Nanking
Road. Owing to its position overlooking the race-
course, this hotel has the advantage of the wind from
the cool quarter during the summer. Its special feature
is its musical dinners. Rooms, $3 to $6 a day ;
breakfast, $075 ; tiffin, $1; dinner, $i'5o; full board,
$50 per month.
Runners meet the steamers from all these hotels ; omnibuses
also from some.
Restaurants
Grill Rooms — 8, Canton Road. Rooms may be had at this
house. Board and lodging, $60 to $90, according to
rooms ; breakfast, $35 ; tiffin and dinner, $30 ; tiffin
only, $18.
Restaurant Milan — 38, 39, Szechuen Road.
Bernadi Brothers — 20, Nanking Road.
Sweetmeat Castle— Nanking Road (afternoon tea).
Consulates
Consulates
Austro- Hungary — 42-44, Whangpoo Road.
Belgium — 17, Chaoufoong Road.
Denmark — 25, Whangpoo Road.
France — Rue dujConsulat.
Germany — 9 and 10, Whangpoo Road
Great Britain — 33, The Bund.
Italy— Bubbling Well Road.
Japan — 1, North jYangtsze Road (Whangpoo Road).
Netherlands — 45, Markham Road.
Portugal — 38, Haskell Road.
Russia — 3 1 a, Szechuen Road.
Spain — 31, Range Road.
Sweden and Norway — 2, North Soochow Road (near Garden
Bridge).
United States— 36, Whangpoo Road.
Post Offices
British — 7,JPekin Road (corner of Pekin and Museum Roads).
Chinese — Hankow Road, in the Custom House Compound.
Numerous pillar-boxes about the settlement.
Note. — These must not be used for posting letters for
despatch by any of the foreign post offices.
French — 61, Rue Montauban, French Settlement. Over bridge
crossing Yang-king-pang Creek, up the creek side, and
first turn to the left.
German — Foocho w; Road.
Japanese — 20A and 20B, Boone Road, Hongkew.
Russian — 7, Quinsan Gardens, Hongkew. Up North Szechuen
Road, and then to the right.
United States of America — 36, Whangpoo Road, at the office
of the United States Consulate-General.
All ordinary postal business is transacted. Roughly, the
offices are open from 8 a.m. to 5 or 6 p.m.
Particulars of emails are advertised in the daily papers ■ it
is impossible and unnecessary to give them here. Generally
Books, Maps, &c.
speaking, the mail services are now so frequent that a letter
may be posted any time.
Note. — No telegraphic work is done at the post offices.
Telegraphic Offices
The offices for the transmission of telegrams to all parts of
the world are those of the Great Northern Telegraph Company
and the Eastern Extension Australia and China Telegraphic
Company, Ltd., 7, The Bund (entrance by a gateway a little
north of the Shanghai Club).
Books and Maps
Those who desire further information on Chinese manners
and customs are recommended the following books, which will
be found both profitable and interesting reading : —
Dyer Ball's " Things Chinese,"
Rev. Arthur Smith's "Chinese Characteristics,"
,, ,, ,, " Village Life in China,"
Dr. Wells Williams's " The Middle Kingdom " ;
and for those who make the houseboat trips,
Thos. Ferguson's Map of the Waterways near Shanghai,
,, „ Map of the Waterways round Soochow,
will be found invaluable.
Newspapers and Periodicals
DAILY PAPERS
I. English
1. North China Daily News (morning paper) — 17, The Bund.
The first sheet published in Shanghai was the Daily
Shipping List. This was converted into the North
China Daily News on July 1st, 1864. Official notifica-
tions appear in this paper, and all shipping intelligence
is very accurately done.
2. Shanghai Mercury (evening paper) — 24 and 25, Nanking
Road. It first appeared as an evening paper on
April 17th, 1879.
Newspapers
3. China Gazette (evening paper) — 16, Pekin Road. First
issued July 2nd, 1894.
4. Shanghai Times (morning paper) — First issued in 1901.
5. Shanghai Daily Press (morning paper) — First issued in
1902.
II. French
1. Echo de Chine (morning) — 49, Rue du Consulat.
III. German
1. Der Ostasiatische Lloyd — 24 and 25, Nanking Road. First
issued October 1st, 1886.
WEEKLY PAPERS
1. North China Herald — The weekly edition of the North
China Daily News.
2. Celestial Empire — The weekly edition of the Shanghai
Mercury.
These two are very useful for Shanghai people at
Tiome who wish to keep in touch with the East.
The China Gazette and Echo de Chine have also
weekly editions of their papers.
Sport and Gossip— Founded in January, 1897, as an organ of
sport and the drama. Sunday mornings.
Tke Union — Mercury Office. This was once the Temperance
Union.
MONTHLY MAGAZINE
The Missionary Recorder — Presbyterian Mission Press.
QUARTERLY MAGAZINE
The East of Asia — Published by the North China Daily News.
It appears quarterly, and is richly illustrated.
PAPER AT IRREGULAR INTERVALS
The Rattle — Humorous and satirical.
Jinrickshaws
CHINESE PAPERS
A very large number of newspapers and periodicals are
issued in Chinese. Shanghai is the great centre for all
literature in the native tongue ; its native press circulates
all over the Empire. It had a great deal to do with the
present Emperor's reform schemes.
Among native daily papers the Sin Vung Pao Kway and
the Sung Pau are most influential.
The Wan Kwoh Kung Pao, a monthly magazine, issued
by the Society for the Diffusion of Christian and General
Knowledge, has a wide circulation.
Jinrickshaws
There are some 5,000 jinrickshaws plying for hire in the
settlement. Even should the electric trams begin to run, they
will no doubt continue to be used. They take you to your own
door, as the trams never could — no small advantage on a wet
day. The legal fares sanctioned by the council are as follows :
Engaged by distance — For each mile, or less than a mile, 43
cash, or 5 cents.
Engaged by time — For one hour, 129 cash, or 15 cents; for
each subsequent hour, 86 cash, or 10 cents.
These are the fares as recently revised by the Council. The
point to note is that 5 cents is now the minimum fare.
These revised fares are to the advantage of the coolies in
short runs, but to their disadvantage in long ones. This
would give a coolie 15 cents for a run out to the Bubbling
Well, surely an inadequate sum ; 25 cents, at least, should in
equity be paid for that run.
SOME USEFUL NOTES ON FARES
Bund (Garden Bridge) to Yang-king-pang Creek . 5 cents.
Bund, up Nanking Road, to Recreation Ground . 10 cents.
Bund to the Race Club 10 cents.
Bund to Carter Road . . . . . -15 cents.
Livery Stables
Garden Bridge to Wayside . . . . .10 cents.
Nanking Road or Bund to Railway Station . . 15 cents.
Foot of Nanking Road to south end of French
Bund -15 cents.
Note that 'rickshaws licensed for the International Settle-
ment are not allowed to run in the French Settlement, and
vice versa. Many of the coolies are licensed for both settle-
ments. These should be taken when going to the French
Settlement. Look out for the double licence on the back
of the vehicle.
Coolies frequently attempt to extort exorbitant fares from
newcomers. The visitor must not let himself be imposed
upon.
Livery Stables
Shanghai is well supplied with excellent livery stables. No
place in the world has more carriages to the population. There
are three foreign-owned stables, in which satisfaction can be
guaranteed : —
The Shanghai Horse Bazaar, Bubbling Well Road (opposite
the Racecourse). This company has a branch stable,
20A, Foochow Road.
The Dallas Horse Repository, 2, Mohawk Road (next the Race
Club).
The George Dallas Stables, 1, Bubbling Well Road (opposite
Metropole Hotel).
There are numerous Chinese stables, but the above are far
the best.
The charges for carriages at these three stables are much
alike. Rubber-tired victoria or brougham and one pony,
morning or afternoon, $4; all day, $5; with pair of horses, $7.
A carriage may be hired by the month for about $60, including
driver. Riding ponies are $3 a ride, or $40 a month. Livery
for riding ponies is $24 a month, for horses $26.
Auctions of horses and ponies are held periodically at the
Horse Bazaar and Dallas Repository.
Shipping 1 Communications
Sampans
Many people are afraid of venturing into these gaily painted,
hooded boats, but without reason. They are safe enough.
The fares are :
Engaged by distance — For half a mile, or less, 43 cash, or
10 cents; for each subsequent half-mile, 43 cash, or
5 cents.
Engaged by time — For each quarter of an hour, or less, 90
cash, or 10 cents.
Shipping' Communication
All that can be done here is to give a list of the lines
■engaged in passenger traffic out of Shanghai. Full particulars
may be obtained from the various companies.
I give, first, the lines to foreign countries ; secondly, those
by which local ports may be reached.
I. LINES FOR FOREIGN COUNTRIES
Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Company — 24, The
Bund.
Messageries Maritimes — French Bund, next French Consulate.
Norddeutscher Lloyd — Melchers & Co., French Bund.
JNippon Yusen Kaisha — North Yangtsze Road.
Canadian Pacific Royal Mail — Jardine, Matheson & Co., 27,
The Bund.
China Navigation Company — Butterfield & Swire, French Bund.
Eastern & Australian Steamship Company — Gibb, Livingston &
Co., 2, Jinkee Road.
Northern Pacific Steamship Company — Dodwell & Co., Canton
Road (corner of the Bund).
Occidental & Oriental Steamship Company and Pacific Mail
Steamship Company — Fearon, Daniel & Co., 21A,
Szechuen Road.
East Asiatic Steamship Company — 16, The Bund.
Chinese Eastern Railway Company — 10, The Bund.
Shipping* Communications
i. Lines to Europe
Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Company — (a) Mail
service fortnightly, connecting at Colombo ; (b) inter-
mediate service every fourteen or fifteen days.
Messageries Maritimes — Fortnightly service alternating with,
P. & O.
Note. — In the case of both these companies, the
tender leaves Shanghai to join the steamer at Woosung
the night before sailing.
Norddeutscher Lloyd — Fortnightly service (calls at Southampton).
Nippon Yusen Kaisha — Fortnightly service (calls at London).
East Asiatic Company — Service monthly. Does not touch any
English port.
2. Lines to United States of America
Nippon Yusen Kaisha — Fortnightly to Seattle.
Occidental and Oriental Steamship Company — To San Francisco.
Pacific Mail Steamship Company — To San Francisco.
Northern Pacific Steamship Company — To Tacoma and Portland.
Toyo Kisen Kaisha.
3. Lines to Canada
Canadian Pacific Royal Mail Service — To Vancouver every three
weeks in June and July ; otherwise every twenty-four
to twenty-nine days. Other boats, twenty-one to thirty
days.
4. Lines to Australia
Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Company — Vid Colombo.
Eastern & Australian Steamship Company — Monthly service.
China Navigation Company — About three weeks.
Nippon Yusen Kaisha — Monthly service.
5. Lines to Japan
The principal ports in Japan — Nagasaki, Kobe, Yokahama —
are best reached by the mail steamers to Canada and the
United States ; also by the Norddeutscher Lloyd, the Messa-
geries Maritimes, and the Nippon Yusen Kaisha.
European Stores
II. PORTS IN CHINA
It is impossible to give details of the sailings of steamers to
the ports on the coast of China likely to be visited by tourists.
To some, as Tientsin, there are frequent sailings, sometimes
in the season a boat almost every day ; to others, like Wen-
chow, there is a boat once a week ; and to others, like Amoy,
the sailings are quite irregular.
The best plan is to watch the Shanghai daily papers, in which
full notices of all sailings are given, and apply to the companies
concerned.
Corea and Vladivostock are reached by the steamers of the
East Asiatic and Chinese Engineering and Mining Co.
Note — As regards all these coast steamers, it must be noted
that they do not sail with the punctuality of mail steamers.
Hence ample margin must be allowed for connection at other
ports.
Visitors to the coast may also be reminded that these local
steamers, being small compared with mail steamers, carry
comparatively few passengers — a dozen or so first class. Hence
early application for a passage should be made.
European Stores
Hall & Holtz (" Fuh-Lee "), 14, Nanking Road, provision mer-
chants, bakers, tailors and outfitters, furnishers, drapers,
and milliners.
Lane Crawford & Co. ("Ta-Shing "), n, Nanking Road, ship-
chandlers, grocers, tailors, drapers, milliners, etc.
Weeks and Co., Ltd., corner of Nanking and Kiangse Roads,
drapers, outfitters, milliners, carpet and furnishing
warehousemen, fancy goods dealers.
Broadway Drapery and Outfitting Stores, corner of Broadway
and Seward Roads.
Books, Maps, Fancy Goods, etc.
Kelly & Walsh, n, The Bund (near the Hongkong and
Shanghai Bank).
European Stores
Brewer & Co., 31, Nanking Road (corner of Nanking and
Kiangse Roads).
These firms have a magnificent collection of English books,
and all important publications on China, Japan, and the Far
East.
Max Nossler & Co., 38, Nanking Road (past Brewer's Store).
This is a German firm.
Missionary Home, 1, Quinsan Gardens. Books, religious and
missionary.
N.B. — Maps. The best cheap general map of China is
that published by the China Inland Mission. The Daily
Mail commercial map of China is very useful for showing
railway concessions, coal-fields, etc.
Photographic Materials
Grenard & Co., C333, Honan Road (corner of Honan and
Hankow Roads).
Llewellyn & Co., 4, Nanking Road.
McTavish & Lehmann, 1, The Bund (near the Shanghai Club),
and 1, North Soochow Road (near Garden Bridge).
Shanghai Dispensary (Chinese), M524, Foochow Road (nearly
opposite Police Station).
Voelkel & Schroeder, 37, Nanking Road (near Brewer's).
Plates, films, chemicals, and every variety of photo apparatus,
British, American, French, can be obtained from these firms.
Chemists and Druggists
All the above-named firms, with Watson & Co., Nanking
Road.
Stores for the Sale of Native, Japanese, and
Indian Curios
CHINESE SILVER AND GOLD SHOPS, WITH CAN-
TONESE SILKS, BLACKWOOD AND PORCELAIN,
IVORY, JEWELLERY, NINGPO INLAID WORK, etc.
Hung Chong, iib, Nanking Road.
Cheong Shing, 21, Nanking Road.
Luen Wo, 41, Nanking Road.
Wo Shing, 201, Kiangse Road.
Native Stores
SILKS, PONGEES, SATINS, GAUZES, CREPES, SILK
THREADS, FLOWERED SILKS, EMBROIDERIES,
GOLD AND SILVER THREAD
Chin Tsiang, 420, Nanking Road.
Laou Kai Fook, corner of Kiukiang and Honan Roads.
Chai Luen & Co., C436, Honan Road.
Hung Chong, iib, Nanking Road.
Luen Wo, 41, Nanking Road.
JAPANESE CURIOS, SILKS, BRONZES, etc.
Kuhn & Komor, 2, Nanking Road.
Nippon Emporium, 38A, Nanking Road.
Also several shops in Broadway between the Settlement and
Hongkew Creek. These are cheaper, but do not keep such
high-class goods.
CURIOS
For Indian Curios — Chotirmall, 253, Broadway.
Teerathdas, K8, Boone Road.
For Chinese Curios generally, brasses, porcelain, inlaid work,
cloisonne bamboo, lacquer work, etc., the visitor must keep
his eyes on the windows of the shops as he traverses the
settlement. It is useless giving the names of shops which
have Chinese signs over them only, as few tourists are Chinese
scholars.
Try Lee Tai, P374, 375, Nanking Road, and Ah Mow, near
Louza Police Station ; also shops on Kiangse Road opposite
Siking Road, and a shop on Szechuen Road between the
Hongkong and Peking Roads (next Chun Tai).
The numerous pawnshops may also be tried.
For brass ware, incense burners, etc., and Chinese curios
generally, the visitor would do well to proceed along Szechuen
Road and Rue Montauban (both in a straight line) to the
Quai de Fosses, which face the wall of the native city. Turn
to the right up the quai — numerous shops with porcelain,
xix
Native Stores
brass ware, etc., will be seen. No. 137, Quai de Fosses, has
a good selection, also shops at the Rue des Missions and
Rue de la Porte du Nord. Continue along this latter street
to the Shantung Road, where something may be picked up in
shops and on stalls.
Beautiful models of everything Chinese done in white-wood
may be bought in the shops of the Ningpo wood-carvers on
Broadway before you come to the bridge across the Hongkew
Creek — models of sampans, junks, irrigation machines,
wheelbarrows, etc., along with cleverly done groups from
Chinese life, such as people eating, opium smoking, threshing
wheat, etc. At these same shops examples of Ningpo inlaid
woodwork and picture frames may be had.
SECTION II
WALKS, EXCURSIONS, AND HOUSE-
BOAT TRIPS
Route I
THE BUND
THE first walk taken by any visitor to Shanghai will
probably be along the Bund, one of the most inter-
esting, famous, and handsome thoroughfares in the world.
Forty years ago " there was no footpath on the farther side,
no trees, no lawns, and it was less than half its present width ;
and at high tides the water came up almost to the walls of the
compounds by the Canton Road and by Siemssen & Co.'s "
{Peking Road). There was no Public Garden, and " the fore-
shore, when the tide went down, was all mud and rubbish,
except where it was used by builders to store their material."
Successive Municipal Councils have made it the splendid
promenade that it is, and have fought against all attempts of
the shipping interest to construct wharves for shipping. They
have maintained and improved it as the great lung and
promenade of Shanghai.
Start at the Garden Bridge. Until 1856-7 people had to
be ferried across the creek. A bridge was built, but tolls
had to be paid, a thing " hateful to the Shanghai public."
The company that owned the ferry or toll right refused to
be bought out, until a drastic remedy was applied — the
Garden Bridge
Council built a wooden bridge alongside the Company's bridge.
This brought the Company to its senses, and the bridge
has been free since 1873. A new one is needed, and is one
of the schemes for the improvement of Shanghai that must
be speedily undertaken.
It is worth while standing for a time on this bridge, viewing
the enormous traffic ; thousands of, vehicles pass in a day.
Note the skill of the Chinese sculler's in navigating their
heavy-laden cargo and passenger boats through the oblique
arches of the bridge. Note also the enormous variety of
boats : Chinese post-boats are frequently to be seen, propelled
swiftly by a man seated in the stern, who works a paddle with
his foot, and steers by another under his arm. At low tide
the churning of the " chow-chow water," due to the confluence
of the Whangpoo River and Soochow Creek, can be seen.
The river is reputed to be 100 feet deep here, and the skill
of Shanghai pilots in bringing large steamers round the right-
angled bend of Pootung Point will be justly admired.
The view from the bridge, with the handsome German Consu-
late on the left and the Gardens on the right, is very good. The
greenhouses of the Public Gardens occupy the corner between
the Bund and the Soochow Road — they are always well stocked
with plants. At the corner, outside the greenhouses, is the
monument to the gallant Augustus Raymond Margary, who was
sent by H.B.M. Government to open up a trade route across
south-west China, and who was murdered in Yunnan on
February 21st, 1875. The monument is a very graceful work,
and was erected by public subscription. Across the road
are the Public Gardens, much too small, but invaluable
to the Settlement.
All the flowers in season are found in the beds. The
lawns are a resort for infant Shanghai. On this account it
is useless for any adult to go to hear the band at 5 p.m. There
is a handsome band-stand. The Town Band discourses music
in the summer evenings, at 9 p.m. during July and August,
when the residents assemble to hear the music and enjoy the
cool breeze that blows from the sea.
The ground on which the Gardens lie was originally called
Public Gardens
" the Consular Flats " : it was new land formed by the
accumulation of mud from the river round the wreck of a
small vessel which sank, near the site of the present band-
stand. In the history of the Recreation Fund we read that
" the ground which now forms the Garden is an accretion
to the Beach Ground of the original Consular Lots, and
consequently, by the 5th Article of the Land Regulations of
1854, was ceded for public use." In 1862 the Recreation
Fund Trustees voted Tls. 10,000 to the laying out of the
Gardens. In 1864 H.B.M. Foreign Office agreed to the land
being made a garden, with the following reservations — that it
should revert to H.M. Government if it ever ceased to be
used as a public garden. In 1866 the Council made a grant,
and filled it in with mud taken from the Yangkingpang
Creek; 011 August 8th, 1868, the gardens, now the property
of the Council, were handed over to a committee of manage-
ment. They are now under the control of the Municipal
Superintendent of Parks and Gardens. The cost, up to 1881,
was Tls. 29,060,37.
Opposite the Gardens is the British Consulate-General.
The grounds cover 43 mow of land and are very beautiful,
worthy of the central site they occupy and of the prominent
place Britain has occupied in the opening up of China. The
Peking Road was the original boundary of the Settlement, and
the site of the Consulate belonged to the Li family. Accord-
ing to Maclellan, there was a battery in the neighbourhood,
and Government (Chinese) docks on the site of the Lyceum
Theatre.
Mr. R. W. Little, in his account of the Shanghai Jubilee,
says (on the authority of Lang) that the land here was very
low and reedy, that two forts that stood where the British
Consulate now stands were called Lootzeching, or " City
of Reeds.'' Sir Rutherford Alcock acquired the site in 1848.
Entering by the gates, we find a broad drive flanked by
two lawns ; such stretches of green grass are always rare in
the Far East.
The Consulate buildings stretch across the west side of
the compound : there are residences for ten officials, and the
3
British Consulate
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JM
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rn
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1
1
Consul-General's
house, which was built
in 1882, is on the ex-
treme right. The busi-
ness premises of the
Consul-General are in
the large buildings fac-
ing the right lawn ; they
are in the Classic style
of architecture, and were
opened for use in 1873.
They occupy the site of
the first Consulate, built
in 1852, which was de-
stroyed by fire on De-
cember 23rd, 1870,
most of the records
perishing.
The Police Court is
on the right after enter-
ing ; the shipping offices
are farther along the
passage ; upstairs are the
consular and land offices.
The British Supreme
Court is at. the rear of
the building, facing
Yuen-ming-yuen Road.
The elevation is very
handsome. It was built
in 1869. (For particu-
lars, see under "Govern-
ment of Shanghai.")
The office of the
Board of Works has an
entrance from the Yuen-
ming-yuen Road. This
Board dates back to
The Bund
Sir Christopher Wren, who war made Surveyor of Works to
the King. To the left of the drive is the Vice-Consul's house.
On the lawn just in front of the Consulate-General is a stone
slab that tells us just where we are geographically ; the in-
scription on it is as follows: "This stone is in latitude
31 14' 42" N. ; longitude 121 29' 12" E. Stone laid April
1873 by Walter Medhurst, Consul."
Note the two stones on the front of the building, detailing
date of erection, etc. Before quitting the grounds, the large
granite cross with its quaint wording is worthy of notice; it is
to Wm. de Morgan (died 1862) and R. Burn Anderson,
of Fane's Horse (died i860).
Leaving the Consulate, the Masonic Hall is on the right.
The foundation stone was laid on July 3rd, 1865. The build-
ing is in the Renaissance style, freely adapted to the needs
of the climate ; it is entered by a handsome double flight
of steps. It is the headquarters of the powerful and numerous
masonic body of Shanghai ; there are club and lodge rooms,
library and billiard rooms, a bar, and a fine hall with organ,
which is in great demand for public functions. At the corner
of the Gardens on the opposite side of the road is a granite
monument, in memory of the officers of the " Ever- Victorious
Army " who were killed in action or died of wounds whilst
serving against the Taiping rebels in the province of Kiangsu,
a.d. 1862-4. Their names are given.
We are now on the Bund proper. There is an asphalted
path by the river, a stretch of beautiful grass, a footpath, and
then the busy thoroughfare, on which carriages, Chinese wheel-
barrows, jinrickshaws, passengers of all races, and bamboo
coolies, present a picturesque and lively picture.
The Bund is always interesting. Strangers are usually
struck by the fact that they see " so few foreigners,'' even
on this main thoroughfare, compared with Chinese. It is to
be remembered, however, that foreigners, according to their
numbers in Shanghai, cannot be more than one in seventy of
those we meet, even if every foreigner were on the streets at
the same time. The plastered buildings are in the Classic
style; many of them are architecturally very fine. They
5
litis Memorial
look much more suitable to a sub-tropical climate than the
dull red-brick erections that are unfortunately becoming
the rule.
On the grass by the Gardens is the litis monument. This
was unveiled November 21st, 1898. An inscription in German
tells us that it is to commemorate the heroic death of the
crew of the gunboat litis, which was wrecked on the coast of
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Iltis Memorial
Shangtung, in a typhoon August 23rd, 1896, seventy-seven
men perishing. It is in the form of a broken mast, a well-
conceived piece of workmanship.
It is not possible to name all the business houses (hongs)
on the Bund ; but the Jardine Matheson hong, at the corner
of the Peking Road, must be noticed. The site probably cost
about $500 at the founding of the Settlement ; now, probably
a million would hardly buy it. It was built in 185 1.
Jardine's, with Dent's and Fearon's, are, as far as I know,
6
Sir Harry Papkes
the only original firms that survive. Jardine's succeeded the
old Canton house of Magniac & Co. about 1830. Their
hong name of Ewo is that of the wealthy Houqua, of Canton,
a great Chinese merchant in the old factory days, who died
worth Tls. 52,000,000.
Opposite the Nanking Road is a monument erected to the
Sir Harry Parkes's Monument
memory of the great Sir Harry Parkes, G.C.M.G., K.C.B.,
Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to Japan,
1865-82; to China, 1882-5; aged fifty-seven. This monument
was erected "in 1890 by the foreign merchants in China in
memory of his great services." The figure is over life-size.
. The view from the footpath across the river is spoiled by
four unsightly opium hulks, in which the drug is bonded — .
7
Custom House
the Yuen-fah, the Ariel, the Corea, and the Wellington. The
first and last were built as opium hulks. The Ariel was an
American clipper, which sailed from Shanghai and was dis-
masted off the Saddles. These hulks were at first anchored
at Woosung, and were moved up to Shanghai during the
Taiping rebellion, as places of refuge, if necessary, for foreign
women and children.
The Daily News offices are a fine pile of buildings ; alsc«
those of the Deutsch-Asiatische Bank. These are very good
I
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Custom House
specimens of the classic plaster buildings. The new Russo-
Chinese Bank, opened in 1902, is in the Italian style, with
emblematic figures over the doors. The Chinese have mis-
understood these figures, taking them for the "foreign man's
josses." " It is all that a bank should be — massiveness and
beauty blended" (Mitchell).
The new Custom House next attracts attention. It was
built in 1893, in the place of the old Chinese building, which
was formerly a temple. " It is in the Tudor style of archi-
tecture, of red brick with facings of green Ningpo stone, and
8
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank
has high-pitched roofs covered with red French tiles. The
buildings have a frontage on the Bund of 135 feet, and on
the Hankow Road of 155 feet. In the centre of the main
building, a clock tower, supplied with a four-faced clock,
by Pott of Leeds, striking the Westminster chimes, rises to a
height of no feet, and divides the structure into two wings.
The elevation is a very handsome one. There is accommoda-
tion for all- departments. The Post Office is in the court at
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank
the rear. When this clock was first set going, there happened
to be few fires in Shanghai for some three months. The
Chinese attributed our immunity to the fact that the chimes
deceived the fire-god. Hearing bells sounding every quarter
of an hour, he took the chimes for the fire-bell, and concluded
that Shanghai was having fires enough. This is a specimen of
the intelligence the Chinese attribute to their gods !
Opposite is the Customs receiving shed, for examining goods.
Outside it is the board on which the arrivals and departures
of steamers are posted. Other buildings are the Hongkong
Shanghai Club
and Shanghai Bank, the Chartered Bank ; the book store of
Kelly & Walsh; the Telegraph Company, slightly past the
Foochow Road; the new offices of the China Merchants
Company. These will attract most attention till we reach
the Shanghai Club, the renowned centre of so much of the
life of the Settlement, social and business ; the one club in
Shanghai ranking with the best at home. There are all the
appointments of a first-class club — two large dining-rooms
Shanghai Club
and private ones> two billiard-rooms, card-rooms, library of
16,364 books, bar, oyster bar, reading-room, kitchen on the top
storey fitted with the latest gas cooking-apparatus. There are
twelve residential rooms. The building, has no architectural
pretensions— it has been called " carpenteresque," whatever
that may be; but it is substantial and comfortable, its only
drawback being that it is too small for the thousand members.
It is managed by a committee and staff of four Europeans,
secretary, assistant chief and assistant house-stewards. The
present building was erected in 1864 (for further particulars,
Yang-king-pang- Creek
see under " Clubs "). Beyond the Club are a few other hongs,
and then the boundary of the old British Settlement, the
Yang-king-pang Creek — not exactly a beautiful waterway, but
so useful for Chinese traffic and the conveyance of garbage,
that it has resisted all proposals to arch it over and make of it
a broad road out into the country.
A bridge leads over the creek into the French Settlement.
Route II
CENTRAL DISTRICT
THIS is the old British Settlement, which extended
originally only to the Peking Road, but now to the
river on the east, the Thibet Road west, the Yang-king-
pang south, and the Soochow Creek on the north.
After the Bund, it will be the first part of Shanghai the visitor
will explore, and it is full of interest. A good rule to avoid
getting lost is to remember that the roads at right angles to the
Bund are named after Chinese cities — Soochow, Peking,
Nanking, Kiukiang, Hankow, Foochow, and Canton ; the
roads parallel with the Bund are named after Chinese pro-
vinces — Szechuen, Kiangse, Honan, Shantung, etc. The
names of the roads are at every corner ; the traveller therefore
can always find the Bund. Note also that the jinrickshaw fare
from any point to another in this district is 5 cents.
Roughly speaking, the lower part between the Bund and
the Kiangse Road is foreign ; the rest, to the Thibet Road,
almost wholly Chinese.
I
Nanking Road and District South of it
Foreign buildings occupy both sides of the Nanking Road
as far as Kiangse Road corner. Many of the best stores,
foreign and Chinese, are situated here. Narrowness is a
serious drawback.
The winding course of this part of the road is due to the
fact that it was first made on the side of a crooked creek.
Nanking 1 Road
Its original name was Park Lane. Almost all the day this
road is crowded with traffic ; foot-passengers, coolies, silk-
clad merchants, foreigners of all nations, barrows, jinrick-
shaws, and carriages make it a unique study.
Notice No. 8, the head-quarters of the Marine Engineers.
Near the Kiangse Road crossing is No. 44, an old foreign
building : this is the Bowling Alley, and is all that remains
of the grand-stand of Shanghai's first Racecourse (q.v.).
Native Store, Nanking Road
Chinese shops now occupy the whole road. Good photographs
may be had all along, for there can be no questioning the
picturesqueness of the Chinese shop-front, with its hanging
signs, globular and octagonal lamps, often adorned with red
tassels, and its carving. The gold-merchant's shop opposite
Kiangse Road is a fine example. Note the tea-shops as
examples of Chinese work ; the upper storey has carved and
gilded woodwork of scenes from Chinese history. Note the
large white square Chinese hongs with enormous characters
on them. They are provision and medicine stores and pawn-
13
Nanking 1 Road
shops, and are easily recognisable. Good curios may be
bought in them. There are stores of silk, satin, embroideries,
grass cloth, etc. Very pretty things may be had cheaply in
the Chinese stores.
In the afternoon after 4 p.m. a ceaseless string of carriages
runs out to the Bubbling Well Road. The crossings are worth
noticing, guarded by Sikh policemen. Note the Chinese
barrow and jinrickshaw men making a dash to get across.
Nanking Road
(The nearest way to the Cathedral is along the Kiangse
Road to the left.)
Those who wish to have a peep at a Chinese Temple with
the minimum of trouble might look at No. P. 167, about half-
way up on the right-hand side of the road. This is the
Hwong Miao, a Buddhist temple ; the chief idol is Kwanyin,
the goddess of Mercy ; in the entrance passage are shrines to
Midoo and Waydoo, the former facing the entrance; to the
right is an enclosure with images on the three sides of it,
seventeen in the centre and twenty-three on each side.
Town Hall
At No. P. 1.60 is the Paw Aye Dong, a charitable institute for
supplying coffins to the poor, almost the most acceptable form
of charity to the Chinese. No Chinaman who is getting old
is happy until he has his coffin all ready. It is a frequent
present from children to aged parents.
There are two very prominent public buildings on this road ;
on the left between the Kwangse and Yunnan Roads is the
new Town Hall and Market. This block of buildings, built
Town Hall, Nanking Road
in 1896, covers an area of 43,000 square feet. The principal
elevation of the Drill Hall is in red brick, with Ningpo stone
dressings, and its heavy gables give it a very dignified
appearance. Up the handsome staircase is a large hall,
154 feet by 80 feet; it has a solid concrete floor, and heavy
wooden roof principals. Its prime purpose is for drill by
the volunteers ; all other uses to which it is put, such as balls,
are incidental. The Town Band plays here in the winter.
Adjoining is a spacious and well-fitted gymnasium. The
quarters of the Volunteer Club are here.
1 S
Louza Police Station
Underneath the Drill Hall is a foreign market. The Chinese
market is on the south side at the back.
Across the road, up a concrete drive, is the Louza Police
Station. Louza means " old barrier " ; it is so named from a
barrier in the old days across the Soochow Creek, at the rear
of the station. It was moved i| miles higher up the creek
to the Sinza, or New Barrier. " A paved way, called
the Shaloo, used to lead from this site to the native city "
(Kingsmill).
Louza Police Station
Prisoners in Cages and wearing the Cangue
The Louza Police Station is a bold and well-proportioned
building, with pointed arches and a central tower ; the
quadrangle is neatly kept. Permission to see the prisoners
in their iron exercise cages may usually be obtained from the
inspector on duty.
For those interested in things Chinese, the following
institutions are easily accessible from this point : the Dai
Waung Miao, on Sinza Road, and a small but very old temple
on the Amoy Road. At R. 594 on the Yunnan Road is
16
Defence Creek
the Zung Che Dong, a native charitable institution for pro-
viding medicine and thick winter clothing for the poor.
(The British gaol, half of' which is let to the Council for
Chinese prisoners, is on the Amoy Road, and may be visited
from this point.)
Now turn to the left along Thibet Road; the creek
is called Defence Creek, and was made to protect the
Settlement in Taiping times. At the corner of the
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Honan Road
Hankow Road is the McTyere Home and Boarding School
for the education of the higher classes of Chinese girls, the
first of its kind in China ; it is named after a bishop of the
Southern Methodist Church (U.S.A.). The Moore Memorial
Church in the same compound is on the Yunnan Road ; it was
built in 1887 by Mr. K. P. Moore, of Kansas City (U.S.A.).
On this road the Chinese pastime of airing the bird (Tsung
tiau) may be seen. The Chinese derive great pleasure from
standing and holding a cage with a bird in it for hours
together : it is the Chinese idea of exercise.
17 2
Fooehow Road
At the end of Thibet Road there is a bridge across the
creek; this leads to the old cemetery at Pah-sin-jao. It is
well laid but, and old enough to have acquired the peaceful
beauty of a home cemetery, The road leading to it is squalid
in the extreme, but still worth seeing : it is real Chinese. Naval
Chinese Actor
and military men as well as civilians of all nations lie here at
rest together.
We may now return to the Bund by any of the roads to the
left. This whole quarter is thoroughly Chinese, and Chinese
life, good and bad, may be seen.
The principal thoroughfare is the Foochow Road, which
18
Foochow Road
is known all over the Empire ; it is the Piccadilly of China.
Here are the large and fashionable opium shops, which
are open to inspection ; they are the large square buildings
next to the Shantung Road crossing. Here also are the
Cantonese tea houses, with wonderful carved fronts ; and
Chinese Actress
the fashionable restaurants, where a first-class Chinese dinner
may be sampled.
The section from the Honan Road westward is full of
interest. Here too are the Chinese theatres — the Ti Si in
Fokien Road, the Tsung Si in the Canton Road, the Dan
Quay and the San Tsing in the Hupeh Road. Visitors
19
Fooehow Road
ought to get a Chinese to go with them to visit the theatres.
The hotels will oblige with guides. If it is only for the mag-
nificent silk costumes of the actors, a visit is worth' the trouble.
The acting is done in. a naive style: a treasure-cart will be
represented by a man walking across the stage holding a
paper, with "I am a cart " written on it. A robber climbs
a wall by jumping over a chair. We must not however be
hard on the Chinese, for after all, in Shakespere's time acting
depended on the same devices. Refreshments are supplied
to the " stalls " along with hot cloths, in Chinese style, to mop
your perspiring brow.
Several roads, and portions of roads, in this district, are
devoted to particular trades, in which the collector of curios
on a hurried visit can pick up a variety* of characteristic
Chinese wares cheaply : in the Fooehow Road, Chinese orna-
ments, Fooehow tea-root figures, etc. ; in the Canton Road
(above Shantung Road), Chinese boots and shoes of all
patterns ; in Shantung Road, clothing, pottery, curios, scrolls,
etc., at street stalls (cheap native pictures, which are often
amusing and crude attempts at current events, are mostly for
sale early in the spring) ; in Shanse Road, all kinds of women's
and children's gear, head-dresses, cheap jewellery, ear-guards,
purses, etc. ; in Honan Road, fine silks and embroideries ;
Fokien and Hupeh Roads are devoted to jinrickshaws and
coffins ; Sungkiang Road, on the Yank-king-pang Creek
side, has second-hand shops where curios may be picked up ;
the west of the end of Shantung Road (between Fooehow
and Hankow Roads) gives itself to the making of blocks for
printing (the characters " are cut in wood) ', Kiukiang Road
(above Shantung Road) is the seat of the native post offices.
Resuming our walk at the upper part of the Foochow
Road, we notice the Parsee Cemetery on the right between
the Chekiang and Hupeh Roads ; turning up the busy Shan-
tung Road, the south end of which is busier and more
crowded than any road in the Settlement, and more like
a street in a native city, we see a plain chapel to the left. This.
is in the compound of the London Missionary Society, the
first Pfotestant Mission in the Settlement. The celebrated
London Missionary Society
Dr. Medhurst, father of Sir Walter Medhurst, settled here
in 1843, with Dr. Lockhart, when the compound, double its
present size, cost $1,080 only. There is a hospital in the
compound, with an entrance on the street, founded in 1846 by
Native Doorway, Ningpo Road
Dr. Lockhart. In 1872 it was transferred to the community
as the Chinese General Hospital, the Mission retaining its
right to work among the patients. This was the first medical
mission in China. Until 1884 this chapel was used by the
congregation of the Union Church.
Crossing the Foochow Road, we come to the original ceme-
tery for foreigners. In the middle of it is a tall wooden
Structure, which is the Council's fire-alarm station, and a
Central Police Station
watchman up in the hut at the top gives the alarm by ringing
a bell.
In the Honan Road is the
Central Police Station
This was erected in 189 1-4 from the designs of T. W.
Kingsmill and Brenan Atkinson, as the result of a competition,
at a cost of Tls. 76,000 ; with land, Tls. 100,000.
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Central Police Station
" The building, erected of red brick in the early Renaissance
style, is perhaps the most dignified of all the municipal
buildings " (Mitchell).
It is the headquarters of the Police Force, with quarters
for foreign inspectors, constables, Sikhs, and Chinese. Here
is also the armoury and orderly-room of the Volunteer force.
On the Honan Road is the new
Central Fire Station,
easily recognisable by its motto " We fight the flames." This
Municipal Offices
building should be of the greatest interest to visitors and
residents, not only because it is a model fire station, but
because it is the only building in the world where a number
of men reside to voluntarily perform such arduous tasks as
the extinguishing of fires and the possible saving of lives.
The building, completed in March, 1903, is of four stories,
in the Renaissance style. On the ground floor space is pro-
vided for the usual equipment of a first-class fire station.
The upper floors are arranged as bachelors' quarters for
several firemen. There are poles by which the firemen can
descend rapidly to the basement.
The New Health Offices and Municipal Laboratory
are in the Honan Road, and were built at the same time as
the last block, to which they are contiguous, at a cost of
Tls. 30,000. On the ground floor are the vaccine station and
general stores. On the first floor is the laboratory, fitted up
with the latest appliances for bacteriological research ; and
adjoining is the " Municipal Menagerie " of calves, goats,
rabbits, monkeys, birds, and mice for the scientific work of
the department. These are well worth a visit. The Health
Officer has a fine suite of rooms over all.
At the back of the above, on the Kiangse Road, are the
Municipal Offices
These were once the business premises of Messrs. E. Barnet
& Co. The building was erected by Mr. Strachan, the first
architect by profession to arrive in Shanghai, about the year
1849. " He introduced a marked style of his own, a version
of the so-called Greek at that period fashionable in England."
The present building is a good specimen of his style. " Under
his instruction the art of building made considerable progress,
and a school of workmen, mostly Ningpo men, was developed
and did excellent work" (Kingsmill).
The Secretary and Taxing Staff occupy the main build-
ing ; the Engineering Staff occupies two blocks of plastered
23
Trinity Cathedral
buildings on the Hankow Road. The Council has a large hall
up the footpath to the left of the main building, where it
meets. Several interesting maps of Shanghai, and other
pictures, are on the walls.
Next to the Municipal Offices, occupying the whole compound
between the Kiukiang and Hankow Roads, is Holy Trinity
Church, the Cathedral Church of the Anglican Bishop of Mid-
China : it is the most magnificent church in the East, and, with
Holy Trinity Church
The Cathedral Church of the Anglican Bishop of Mid-China
its great green sward around it, the handsome Carlowitz and
other modern buildings facing it, presents a most imposing
appearance. In the earliest days of the Settlement there was
a consular chapel somewhere in the Museum Road, which
was then included in the British consular compound. A
church was built on the present site of the cathedral between
1840 and 1850 : a waterspout is said to have burst over it in a
thunderstorm on June 24th, 1850, and the roof fell in ; it was
repaired and opened again in 185 1. Maclellan says that it
24
Union Church
had become so dilapidated by 1862 that the rain came in
through chinks : it was taken down in that year and a tem-
porary place of worship erected in the compound. In 1864
a new church was determined on. Sir Gilbert Scott furnished
the plans, which were modified to meet the needs of the
climate. So magnificent and costly a structure was a severe
drain even in so wealthy a community as Shanghai was at that
time. The foundation stone was laid May 24th, 1866 ; it was
opened August 1st, 1869 ; the new organ dates from 1883 ;
and the foundation stone of the spire was laid in 1901. " The
style is early thirteenth-century Gothic, with nave, aisles, tran-
septs, chancel, and two chapels for organ and vestry. Its length
is 152 feet, and its width 58 feet 6 inches ; its height, 54 feet."
There is an open arcade surrounding the aisles, carried on
granite shafts. The Deanery is at the west side of the church,
and a new parish room, serving as Sunday-school room, has
just been erected in a style in keeping with the church.
We can now find our way by any of the roads to the Bund
(Hankow Road, Kiukiang Road). We notice how the whole
district is becoming covered with lofty buildings four stories
high, making these narrow streets extremely gloomy.
Central Division— North of Nanking Road
The portion of the Central Division north of the Nanking
Road has not so many subjects of interest as the larger portion
on the south side. It contains the Public Gardens and the
splendid compound of the British Consulate-General, already
described. Proceeding up the Soochow Road, we find the
Union Church just past the British Consulate boundary.
This church is, as the name implies, formed by members
of all denominations, who wisely agree to sink all minor
differences. The church originated in 1845 with the Rev.
Dr. Medhurst, of the London Missionary Society, who held
a service for foreigners in the chapel in the compound in
the Shantung Road for many years, until the unsuitableness
of that neighbourhood for a foreign church, and the require-
ment of the chapel for purely Chinese purposes, compelled
the congregation to find a home in the present building.
25
Lyceum Theatre
The present church was built in 1884 by Mr. Dowdall,
in the Early English style, having an open timbered roof,
and tower with octagonal spire, which is 108 feet high to the
top of the vane. The church was enlarged in 1901. The
Hall, at the corner of the Yuen-ming-yuen Road, with
lecture-hall, class-rooms, etc., was opened in December, 1899.
Opposite the Union Church is the Boat House, the headi
quarters of the Rowing Club. The new premises have every
Union Church
convenience for the members of this popular club. Just above
Union Church, on the right, are the Chinese Gardens, for the
use of Chinese residents. Farther up the road, slightly down
the Kiangse Road, is the water tower of the Water Works,
from which pressure is obtained to supply the Settlement ; it
is 100 feet high.
In the Museum Road stands the Lyceum Theatre (see
" Amateur Dramatic Society "), recently refurnished and
improved with new front. In the same road is the Museum
(see " China Branch, Royal Asiatic Society ") ; if only to see
26
British Post Office
the birds of China the tourist should visit it. Close to the
Museum, in the street near the Italian Consulate, is the only
spot where a foreigner has been executed in Shanghai by
hanging.
The British Post Office is at the corner of the Museum and
Peking Roads. The crossing of Szechuen and Peking Roads
is one of the busiest in the Settlement ; five minutes standing
there gives a good idea of the enormous street traffic of
Shanghai, and at this corner some of the oldest hongs or
business houses may be seen.
At 1 6, Peking Road, is the Jewish Synagogue; at No. iS
is the American Presbyterian Mission Press, which prints a
vast mass of literature for the Chinese every year.
Beyond the Honan Road, westwards, this part of the
Settlement is wholly Chinese : the upper part of Peking Road
is the Petticoat Lane of Shanghai. At No. V. 747, Peking
Road, is the Zen Sung Aye, a temple built by members of the
Silk Guild for monks ; and in Amoy Road, V. 439, is the very
small but ancient temple, the Dai Waung Miao. The only
other foreign buildings are the British Gaol in Amoy Road,
half of which is let to the Municipal Council for Chinese
prisoners, where they may be seen engaged in mat-making.
The Gas Works are in Thibet Road ; the supply of gas is in
the hands of the flourishing Gas Company, which makes a
a bold stand against the electric light, supplying the older
illuminant at a cheaper rate than it is supplied in many English
towns.
2 7
Route III
WESTERN DISTRICT
Bubbling Well Road
THIS is a continuation of the Nanking Road or Maloo.-;
it commences at Loong-fei Bridge, which crosses the
Defence Creek. The Creek received this name in Taiping
times, when it was the limit of the western defences of the
Settlement.
The George Dallas stables on the left are No. r, Bubbling
Well Road. The drive up the Nanking Road need not be
described here, as it is done in another section (which see).
A short history of this, the premier road of Shanghai, will
be of interest. It shows how largely indebted the present
generation is to the public spirit of private individuals in the
past. A reference to the account of the Race Club in this
volume shows that the " Shanghai Riding Course " occupied the
ground at the top of the present Nanking Road. " No pro-
vision was made for driving, as in those days Shanghai could
not boast of any wheeled conveyances other than the native
barrow.' 7
"In 1862," says the "History of the Recreation Fund,"
" owing to the influx of the Chinese seeking refuge from the
Taiping rebels, land in the so-called English Settlement in-
creased so much in value, that the trustees of the Shanghai
Riding Course decided on constructing a road 40 feet in
width, through the centre of the Course, and selling the
20 feet remaining as frontages." Carriages were beginning to
appear in the Settlement about this time, but there were no
roads on which to drive. According to this resolution, it will
28
Bubbling -Well Road
be seen that the road made clean through the old Riding
Course to the Bubbling Well was originally intended to be a
driving road only. That it would become a great residential
road did not apparently enter the heads of these fathers of the
Settlement. The names of these trustees deserve to be held
Sikh Mounted Trooper
in everlasting remembrance. They are Ed. Cunningham,
N. C. R. Macduff, Wm. Thorburn, T. C. Beale. The frontages
sold for Tls. 100,036,10, which became, of course, the property
of the shareholders of the Riding Course. With this money
the land necessary for making the road to the Bubbling Well
was purchased, and the road made for, what appears to-day,
the ridiculously low sum of Tls. 13,524,28. It is interesting to
29
Recreation Ground
note that Tls. 970,20 were paid for removing the ever-present
coffins in the way of the new road ; the bridges cost Tls. 2,825,
and the road itself Tls. 4,600 to make. The actual cost of
the land was Tls. 3,483,58 only.
Only subscribers were 1 permitted to drive on it free.
Gates were erected at the two large bridges to keep off non-
subscribers. It was completed in October, 1863, and its length
to the Well is two miles. It was, however, found impossible
to collect sufficient subscribers to keep the road in repair,
so negotiations were entered into and concluded with the
Municipal Council in May, 1866. The shareholders made a
free gift of this splendid road to the public, on condition that
the Council kept it in repair and abolished the tolls, the
history telling us that " the payment of tolls seems peculiarly
distasteful to the Shanghai public, probably from the habit of
not carrying money on the person." Few communities have
so splendid a free gift as Shanghai in this road.
Now that we have seen the making of the road, we com-
mence our drive. To the left, next to George Dallas's stables,
is the Recreation Ground. The outer racecourse belongs to
the Race Club, the inner to the Recreation Fund Trustees,
along with the whole of the interior. A carriage may be
driven into the grounds as far as the pavilion which is visible
from the entrance gate.
The building to the left is the swimming bath, a proprietary
institution, the shares of which have gone up to somewhere
about 130 per cent, premium ;' the gate next to it is the
entrance to the Shanghai Cricket Ground ; the pavilion to the
right belongs to the popular Golf Club, which has to be con-
tent with a nine-hole course on this level ground instead of
having natural links. These cannot be obtained in the country
round Shanghai, as golf cannot be played in paddy fields.
The next pavilion to. the right of the Golf Club is that of the
Cricket Club, a new one in which are dressing- and bath-rooms
for the players. Some account of this ground will be found
in the brief history of the Recreation Fund (which see).
This ground was the first laid out when the whole Recreation
Ground was acquired, along with a baseball ground then next
3°
Race Club
to it. The flower-beds in front of these pavilions are well kept.
Walking round to the right, one sees the pavilion of the
Recreation Club, which combines cricket, football, and tennis.
The large area between the grounds of these clubs and the
racecourse is allotted free to the innumerable tennis., cricket,
and football clubs of the Settlement. Continuing our round,
we come to the ground and small pavilion of the German
Tennis Club. Looking across this space south towards the race-
track, a pailow (widow's monument) will be observed. These
, i
tM ■f"T UlliLLL
|HM1
liplfl
Race Club
memorials are erected by the Chinese Government to widows
who have not married again. Continuing, we pass the ground
of the Polo Club, and arrive again in front of the Cricket Club
pavilion.
Leaving the Recreation Ground, we regain the road. The
spacious premises of the Horse Bazaar Company are seen on
the right. A number of poorly built foreign houses follow, suc-
ceeded by the solidly comfortable Mayfair and Ewo Terraces.
Over the way is the home of the Race Club (which see). This
has been receiving additions ever since it was built, about 1861.
3 1
Country Club
Its well-swept gravelled spaces, its air of neatness, its broken
outlines, present a handsome appearance. The clock tower
is one of the two public clocks which Shanghai boasts. There
is accommodation for a large number of ponies belonging to
members. Adjoining the Race Club is Mohawk Road,
which leads across to the French, the newly formed Great
Western and Wei-hai-wei Roads, which run parallel to the
Bubbling Well Road to the Siccawei Road. The Jewish
Countky Club
Cemetery lies at the corner of Mohawk Road, and the
inscription on one of the gate-posts is : " Jewish Cemetery.
Presented to the Jewish congregation of Shanghai by David
Sassoon, Esq. a.m. 5622, a.c. r862." Next to the Cemetery
is the Dallas Horse Repository.
On the right-hand side of the main road is the residence
of the celebrated Sheng Kung Pao, who is said to have
four hundred persons altogether on the premises, family
and retainers — a true Oriental family warren. The next
noteworthy buildings are the Country Club (which see)
32
Chang Su Ho's Gardens
on the left, and the Shanghai Taotai's foreign residence and
offices, along with the Chinese Bureau of Foreign Affairs on
the right. The Country Club has increased in importance as
a social rendezvous since the Shanghai Club has become
so much a business centre. The view of the building from
the road is good, but the front is on the south side, where
the gardens, with lawns and ornamental water, are of great
beauty. The Taotai's residence is a large plastered building
of no architectural pretensions.
The lane to the left, where the Bubbling Well Road bends
slightly, is Love Lane ; it is prettily shaded with trees, and
leads to Yates Road. From the Carter Road, which is next
passed on the right (leading to Sinza Road and the Robison
Road), the Bubbling Well Road will bear comparison with any
similar residential road in the West. Villas completely shaded
with well-grown trees, and often of excellent architecture in
various styles, line both sides of the road. The only drawback
is that abundance of foliage means abundance of mosquitoes
in summer.
The popularity of the road is evinced by the string of
carriages that fill it of an afternoon. Foreigners and Chinese
are equally in evidence. The visitor has no better opportunity
of seeing the dress of Chinese women than here. Celestial
beauties drive along this road, arrayed in splendid silks and
satins, got up in the height of Chinese fashion.
A charming feature of the road is the mixture of the old
and new, foreign and Chinese buildings — reed-built cottages and
farms are side by side with the foreign villas.
Chang Su Ho's gardens are at the end of an opening on the
left of the road, just past Yates Road; the hall is one of the
handsomest buildings in Shanghai, and the gardens are good.
Displays of fireworks (Chinese) are given in the summer.
There are some altogether original effects, quite unlike those
of Western fireworks. Refreshments may be obtained. The
gardens are about twelve years old. Under the present
management many new attractions have been added, such as
a water chute and cycle track.
From the new Gordon Road (leading into Sinza Road and
33 3
Yu Yuen Gardens
thence to the Well) we reach the Cross Road, where we must
not fail to see the Yu Yuen Gardens (admission, 10 cents).
Those who have never seen Chinese gardens ought not to miss
this chance : rockwork, well stocked with flowers in summer,
lily ponds, zig-zag bridges, alcoves, covered ways, quaint
hexagonal and circular door and gateways, with curved roof
pavilions, tell us we are in China. The most is made of a
small space. The photographer and water-colour artist will
■^^T^^BB^hi ^fWLLE
Chang Su Ho's Gardens
find abundant subjects in these gardens, as Mr. Brocklebank's
lovely pictures prove. There is a large two-storied refreshment-
room, and casual visitors can have tea in Chinese or foreign
style. There is no need to be afraid of the food supplied;
Chinese sweets and confectionery can be sampled. There is a
very small menagerie in the gardens.
There is another way, round to the right, to the Jessfield
Road, but it is best to continue to the left along the Bubbling
Well Road, past the new Cemetery, which has been opened
about six years. The Chapel, behind which is the Crematorium,
34
The Bubbling Well
serves all religious denominations. It is best to alight at the
Bubbling Well.
Inside a square stone enclosure is a spring of muddy water
charged with carbonic acid gas. This is the well-known
Bubbling Well. The scene about the well is a very pleasant
one, with the well-planted roads and well-kept walks, the
old temple, the Chinese shops and dwellings. St. George's
Farm, buried in foliage, supplies excellent teas.^ The old
Chang Su Ho's Gardens, Arcadia Hall
temple, very famous in the district, is worth a visit. The
great doors are open only at festivals, but entrance is easily
effected by a small and mean door at the right — that is, the
side nearest Shanghai. This leads into the outbuildings.
Bearing to the left all the time after entrance, we pass through
the chief halls. The name of the Temple is Zung Au Aye.
and a Chinese scholar informs me that it dates from the Han
Dynasty — not, of course, the present building, but one on
the site. The Han Dynasty ended in a.d. 951. The first gods
visible are the three brothers, " the three rulers of Heaven,
35
Bubbling- Well Temple
Earth, and Water " ; the first rules heaven, the second earth,
and the third the seas, lakes, rivers, and canals. Their birth-
days are on the 1 5th of the first, seventh, and tenth months,
August is the chief time for worship. The name of the
central one is Wang Lo Yah. They wear scarlet robes.
Through a passage, at the end of which is a very old dusty
Yu Yuen Gakdens
bell, and across a brick court, is another building, with the
plaster figure of a mandarin, arrayed in ordinary Chinese
dress. I have been unable to ascertain who he is, but it looks
like a case of the apotheosis of some meritorious official. On
the table in front of him is a tall red tablet with the inscrip-
tion : "The lord 10,000 times 10,000 times 10,000 years."
Passing through the door to the left, we come to the temple
36
Bubbling Well Temple
to Midoo, the " Metreya Buddha." He is also called the
" Me-me Buddha " and the " Coming Buddha," and is the
Messiah of the Buddhist Faith. He sits tailor fashion, and
is always represented as very fat. " In his hand is a bag ; his
broad, laughing face welcomes the worshipper At the present
time Sakyamuni rules the Church : his successor will be
Metreya, and at that time the earth, 'with its five evils
mingled,' will be purified." There are two hideous painted
Two of the "Four Brothers" in Bubbling Well Temple
figures at each side of Midoo, the four heavenly kings, or
"the four diamonds"; "they were four brothers, who were
killed in battle and made guardians of the doorway in Tar-
tarus," The first has a sword, "which, if brandished, would
cause a black wind to spring up, and in the wind 10,000
spears, which would pierce the bodies of men and turn them
to dust ; after the wind there would be a fire like 10,000 golden
serpents flying round." The next on the right " has a guitar ;
when he touches the strings, fire and wind issue forth." The
first on the left " has a bag, and in the bag a little animal like
37
Siceawei Road
a white rat ; turn it loose, and it will be like a white elephant
with two wings flying against the enemy." The last one " has
an umbrella in his hand which can shade the universe ; turn
it, and there would be earthquakes ; open it, and heaven would
be a chaos, earth darkness, and the sun and moon without
light" (Du Bose).
A door to the right of Midoo leads to the court of the Tah
Yung Pau Dien, the main temple building.
Buddha occupies the central shrine, seated on a conventional
square lotus ; below him a smaller image. Around the walls
are the companions of Buddha, over life-size, in gilded wood.
These are very well done-'and newly gilt. Starting at the left,
the local names of the ten are : Pah-ha, with a globe in his
hand ; Quah Tan, with a staff; Nos. 4, 5, and 6 all sit together;
No. 6 is Koe Yun, who has no arms, and sits in contemplation,
like Buddha ; No. 7 is Li Kon Lan — he has top boots, and at
his feet is a tiger ; No. 8 is Long Ho, who has a lion in his
hand ; No. 9 is Loo Hon.
Those on the right-hand side of the image are similar : one
has his hand raised, another sleeps, another is cross-legged,
and another holds a child in his arms.
We now leave the Temple, and pass the end of the Siceawei
Road, which was formed by a body of shareholders for riding
and driving before 1865. (Shanghai may be reached down
this road, either by the first turn to the left, crossing to the
French Road, or by the second to the left, which is the head
of the French Road itself.) We turn to the left after
passing St. George's Farm, and are now on the Jessfield
Road, a drive of a mile through a pleasant country, now
beginning to be built on, and plentifully covered with grave-
mounds, clumps of tall grass, and villages. We soon reach the
Brenan Road. This leads out into the country, round by the
Rubicon and Hung-jao Roads to Siceawei, forming three
sides of a square. The distance from the Race Club round
these roads is about seventeen miles, and pedestrians and
riders may do it easily ; for cyclists it is quite passable ; for
carriages a pair of horses or ponies should be used. Nothing
can give a visitor a better idea of the country round Shanghai
38
St. John's College
than an excursion round these roads. The Soochow Creek
is touched about two miles up the Brenan Road.
The road to the right of the Brenan Road is the Robison
Road, leading back to Carter Road. The ground about the
empty cotton mill was the camp of the British (Indian)
troops from the time of the Boxer outbreak in 1900 to January,
1903. We continue through the Jessfield village, past the mill,
and reach a branch of the road : to the left is Mr. E. Jenner
Hoggs's beautiful domain of "Unkaza"; to the right St. John's
College, the centre of the mission work of the Protestant
Episcopal Church of America, which commenced its labours
in Shanghai in 1837, under Bishop Boone. Admission to
inspect the College may be obtained from the principal any
day but Saturday and Sunday.
The grounds will strike the eye of the visitor as singularly
beautiful ; the well-grown trees surrounding trim lawns, the
chapel and substantial buildings, suggest that the founders
of St. John's College must have had a more than usually broad
and generous conception of mission work.
St. John's was founded in 1878. The brick building to the
right is the new science hall, thoroughly furnished with
apparatus. The main building has a quadrangle, with
assembly hall, classrooms, bedrooms, dining-room, etc.
The buildings to the left are the residences of the bishop,
principal, and teachers. There is a large playing-field behind
the College.
The return to Shanghai must be made by the same route,
unless the pony can stand a return by the Robison Road,
a new occupation road made by the Council, much used
by riding men.
39
Route IV
NORTHERN DISTRICT
THE Northern District is that part of the Settlement
that lies between the Soochow and Hongkew creeks.
It is usually considered to contain no places of interest, a
view of it which is entirely wrong, as I hope to show.
German Consulate and Church
Foot- or Post-boat in Foreground
There are large numbers of foreign residences in it. North
Szechuen Road, Quinsan Road, Range Road (so named from
the fact that until 1897 the Volunteers' rifle range was there),
and others are foreign. This Northern District is characteristic
40
German Consulate
of Shanghai, where more than in any other Treaty Port
foreigners and natives are intermingled residentially. In
Shanghai there is no locality sacred to foreigners only. This
has its advantages and its disadvantages, the former pre-
dominating. It is good for trade ; it saves the comparatively
few foreigners from becoming a clique, as they do when they
live in a small enclave by themselves. At any rate, it certainly
adds to the interest and picturesqueness of life in Shanghai,
71
Ml'
5^1 £r
It - :
1 1 JSt ■ * v "
iilJ
1. M
BBS
Street Scene
where Chinese habits may often be studied almost as well as in
a native city.
I propose to give first a few notes of Chinese life in
Hongkew. Tourists who are photographers will be glad to
know where to find characteristic subjects.
Chinese Life in Hongkew
The Hongkew end of the Garden Bridge, from 7 to 9 a.m.,
gives pictures enough : there are ducks and geese being carried
to market on bamboos, on large flat basket trays, huge crates
4i
Soochow Creek
full of fowls, barrows of unsavoury-looking fish. In fact, coolies
laden with every kind of produce can be photographed here.
The Soochow Creek (North Side)
As far as the Chapoo Road and Szechuen Road bridges this
is a rich field. Here is the seat of the vegetable and the
centre of the rod and scrap-iron trades. In the apparently
ramshackle hongs an immense business is done. Be there
The Soochow Creek
early in the morning, and see vegetables and fruits being landed
from boats. In the summer there are picturesque heaps of
melons, persimmons, egg-plants, chihlis, etc., and in winter
cabbages of all kinds, kobe, carrots, etc. The landing, and
weighing on native steelyards, packings and carrying away on
bamboos, with the gesticulating groups of men, all make good
pictures. Look out for the raising of huge balks of timber
from the creek to the road by means of bamboo poles and
ropes. The Chinese coolie "gets there" in his own way.
Give him ropes and bamboo poles and he can move anything.
42
Seward Road
Above the Honan Road Bridge
Go there between 4 and 5 p.m. to see the " trains " start
for Soochow and other places : a " train " is a string of boats
towed by a launch. This scene should not be missed. For a
confused scene of boats, houses, pontoons, shanties, boatmen,
coolies, and passengers, rich and poor, with " big box, little
box, band-box, and bundle," hawkers, cooks, and loafers, the
scene is unrivalled.' Unfortunately the noise' cannot be
photographed. The creek is crammed with boats, and how
the train is to get out is a problem equalled only by that one,
how it ever got in ! Note the Chinese passenger-boats — a
hundred coolies on the roof, as close as sardines. They are
carried to Soochow for 25 cents each, including food. Query :
How is the new railway to compete ?
A tiny cabin to yourself costs $1. Get pictures of cake-
sellers, of silk-clad gentlemen buying three cakes to last them
the fifteen hours' run, of boatmen, hawkers, the picturesque
backs of Chinese houses on the creek, etc., etc.
Seward Road
For the first mile this is entirely Chinese, and it is always
crowded. The fact that 50 per cent, of the whole population
of China is engaged in the carrying trade must account for it.
In the absence of horses and railways, men must be the burden
bearers. Note the wooden erection over a dye shop near the
Hongkew Creek, and native cloth suspended from the staging
in long streamers. Calendaring cloth may be seen in a shop
at the far end of the road ; it is done by seesawing a heavy
round grindstone (with segment cut off) on the cloth : a man
standing on the stone supplies the energy. Note rice stores,
cook-shops (always the filthiest), sam-shu (spirit) stores, and
pawnshops, which the coolies make convenient store-houses for
their winter clothes during the summer. When one of these
pawnshops catches fire the insect world is indeed the poorer.
Hongkew Creek Side
This is a rich field, all the way up Fearon Road from
Broadway. A good deal of washing is done. Note that clothes
43
Hongkew Creek
and rice and vegetables are all washed in the filthy creek.
It is the fact that the Chinaman eats only hot food that has
undergone boiling or frying that saves the population from
being decimated by epidemics.
On the higher reaches of the creek, from Scott Road
northward, the visitor may see genuine beggar villages, if he
Dye House, Seward Road
Shows Bamboo Staging for drying Cloth
wishes. These people are from north of the Yangtsze, which
is a poor region. Their huts are made of anything handy —
mud, reeds, brickbats, old planks, coats, sacking, and enamelled
iron advertisements of somebody's invaluable soap.
There is a large supply of babies, dogs (much fleabitten and
mangy), urchins (clothed in winter, naked in summer). Their
44
Hongkew Creek
boats are in the last stage of consumption ; they often just
hang together (literally with rope), but whole families spend
a cheerful life in them. On the small deck all domestic
operations may be witnessed ; the Chinese love of flowers
comes out in pots of golden lilies, adorning the indescribable
squalor. Children and fowls are tethered on deck, to prevent
Hongkew Market
an immersion. A duck may be seen floating astern : one would
think it could swim where it liked, but it cannot ; that duck is
tied to the boat by a string. If the visitor is adventurous, he
may continue up the creek, where he will find China sanitary
and unsanitary, coffins, beggars, water-buffaloes, washermen,
gardeners, huts, farms, and scoundrels, washed and unwashed.
The Hongkew Market
should not be missed on any account for lively scenes of
Chinese marketing, between 6 and 9 a.m.
45
The Pan Tuck Aye
Places of Interest in the Northern District
East of North Szechuen Road
The General Hospital, on the Soochow Creek between the
Chapoo Road and Szeehuen Road bridges, was founded in 1864.
Since then it has been much enlarged, and*Ts gradually being
rebuilt. The nursing is admirably done by the Sisters, and it
receives a grant of Tls. 3,000 per year from the Council.
There is accommodation for first- and second-class patients,
and free beds for the destitute. The number of these beds
is to be largely increased.
Two Chinese religious institutions are very conveniently
situated for a visit, being within ten minutes of the Garden
Bridge — the Pan Tuck Aye, a Buddhist nunnery, and the
Kwang Zang Ee Yuen, a native hospital with temple attached.
They are both in the Haining Road, which is the fifth turning
to the right along the North Szechuen Road.
The Pan Tuck Aye is the first building to the left down
Haining Road. The door on the road is a shabby one, of
black painted wood. Knock for admission, and the nun who
opens the door will permit you to wander round as you please.
Crossing a small yard, you enter a hall with an image
of the corpulent Midoo, who prospers men and is the
coming Buddha. At the back of his shrine is one to Waydoo,
a disciple of Buddha, with his sceptre. Go through the great
door behind Waydoo and cross an open court, which has
houses of the nuns on each side of it ; the carved woodwork on
the verandahs of these houses is good. At the other side of the
court is the temple building, the interior of which is surprisingly
rich and clean — well kept and well worth a visit. Good scrolls
and inscriptions cover the walls. The roof is of good open
woodwork, and the central shrine is to Sieh Kyah Mayi Nue
Vah, the Buddha of the three ages — past, present, and future,
the small figures to the left and right of the central one
representing the past and future. Around the walls are the
eighteen Lohans ; " they were distinguished members of the
Indian Church, and passing through several degrees they
attained to the state of perfect saints." This is the only temple
46
The Kwang Zan Ee Yuen
in which the actual correct number of eighteen is represented.
Sometimes they are doubled. At Hangchow there are five
hundred ; here there are nine on each side, in cases of
varnish and gold with glass doors. To the right of the
central shrine against the back wall of the building is
a shrine with glass doors ; inside are three figures of
gilded wood, very handsomely carved. They are the gods
of the western heavens. Amida is the central one, the local
name being O-mi-doo. He " represents the craving of a human
soul for a life beyond, full of light and happiness."
On the left side of the central shrine is another similar
glass-fronted shrine, to the thousand-handed Kwanyin, the
goddess of mercy, who "listens to the prayers of the unhappy,''
helps the sailor, succours women, and she-alone of the gods
is especially loved by women and children. The last time I
visited this nunnery two mandarins' wives, resplendent in silks
and loaded with pearls, had come in to worship her.
Next to the Pan Tuck Aye is the Kwang Zan Ee Yuen.
This is a hospital for the sick poor, and is maintained by the
Cantonese Guilds ; it is a case of purely native philanthropy,
and is therefore interesting. Entering by a good modern iron
gate, the watchman will permit us to pass into a hexagonal
yard. This leads into an entrance hall with table and chairs ;
memorial tablets or slabs, with the names of benefactors
inscribed, line the walls. This and the whole enclosure is
scrupulously clean. No one need be afraid of contagion here ;
one wonders how it is kept so clean. A very tasteful open
court with piazzas and rows of Kiukiang garden seats, on
which are pots with dwarf orange trees, leads into what we may
call the Governor's hall, with its black-wood table and chairs.
The walls are covered with good scrolls and one or two
anatomical pictures of the human body, proving that the
Cantonese governors are not against western learning.
There is no idol in the central position, but a scroll with a
picture of the heavenly mandarin. Pass through the curtained
doorway at the back of this building, cross a small court, and
enter the temple of the god of medicine — in Shanghai called
Wan Doo Siensang, the king of medicine.
47
Temple of the God of Medicine
"There are four of these gods, or perhaps one with four
titles." " In one day he ate seventy poisons ; his body was
transparent, so that their effect could be seen." Hwat'u is
another name of the medicine god ; he was born in the second
century of our era ; being imprisoned by the emperor, " gave
his book of prescriptions to his gaoler's wife, who kindled the
fire with it, to the irreparable loss of the world." . No wonder
medicine has made slow progress in China. There is an alley
Group of Women
way on the right (east) side of the main buildings where the
hospital is situated.
A series of small courts contain three rooms each, and in
each room are two patients ; the rooms are passably clean, but
the patients look forlorn, wrapped up in their cotton quilts.
There is a convenient cemetery next door. The Chinese
genius makes the hospital complete.
In Quinsan Road we find the Anglo-Chinese College. On
the right, in a beautiful compound, are the headquarters of the
Southern Methodist Board of Foreign Missions (U.S.A.), which
48
Victoria Nursing- Home
commenced work in Shanghai in 1849. The College on the
left was built in 1889, and is the means of educating about two
hundred young Chinese. This College, in such close proximity
to the centre of the Settlement, affords a splendid opportunity
for all interested in education in China to inspect the work ;
the course of study is thorough and broad.
At the corner of Boone and Chapoo Roads is the
Public School
It is supported by the Council, and moderate fees have to
be paid. A good education is given, but those who want a
higher education cannot obtain it in Shanghai. It is a pleasing,
one-storied building, surrounded by asphalted playgrounds.
In Range Road is the
Victoria Nursing Home
This useful institution, having a very pleasant outlook, was
erected by the inhabitants of Shanghai to commemorate the
Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The
building, which cost over Tls. 32,000, was opened and handed
over to the Municipal Council on March 27th, 1901, and has
the distinction of being the first and only institution of its kind
in the East. Accommodation is provided for twenty-three
patients ; the staff are nurses from English hospitals, with
probationers from Shanghai. The object of the Home is to
provide skilled nursing for the sick. The total cost of the
Home to the community in 1901, after deducting fees re-
ceived from patients, was about Tls. 3,600. The rooms are
light, airy, and beautifully fitted.
Returning down the Woosung Road, the premises of the
China Inland Mission are reached. They are on the right
after passing the end of Quinsan Road. A plain but useful
building of no architectural pretensions whatever forms the
headquarters of the Mission. There are suites of rooms
for missionaries down from the interior. The great central
lawn is very well kept. When we remember that seven to
eight hundred missionaries are connected with this society,
49 4
Hongkew Market
we can realise the vastness of the business transacted in this
building. The story of the founding of this Mission by Mr.
Hudson Taylor is known to all.
Not far from the Mission, a little way down the Boone
Road, is the
Hongkew Market,
which is so popular that in 1901 fees accruing from it yielded
a sum of Tls. 15,971 to the coffers of the municipality. It is
one of the sights of Shanghai, and ought to be visited early
in the morning. Opposite it is the back entrance to the
important Hongkew Police Station ; it fronts Minghong Road,
and was erected in 1878-9 at a cost of Tls. 32,000. In the
compound is the Eastern Fire Alarm Tower, 85 feet high.
The Thomas Hanbury Home
is a little lower down on the Boone Road, and was founded by
Mr. Thomas Hanbury for the education of Eurasian children,
both boys and girls. There are boarders and day pupils, and
a good sound education is given, along with practical training.
This institution deserves much more generous support than it
receives. It is a large brick building at the corner of Nanzing
and Boone Roads.
At 21, Nanzing Road, is the Church of the Sacred Heart of
Jesus, with schools. The last public institution worthy of note
in this part of the Settlement is
St. Luke's Hospital,
belonging to the American Protestant Episcopal Church
Mission, where a great work is done for the Chinese. It was
founded in 1869. There are a hundred beds in the men's
wards ; the women's hospital has fifty beds.
Those who have time may go and see some places. of interest
in the remoter parts of this division. There is the Municipal
Isolation Hospital for Chinese in Scott Road (top of Woosung
Road), with accommodation for 150 patients, and a separate
block for out-patients. The building, erected in 1900 is in
Chinese style, and behind it is a two-storied building. The
whole cost Tls. 21,000.
5°
St. Luke's Hospital
Going along either Scott Road or Yuhang Road, we find a
number of municipal institutions. The Concrete Ware Yard,
at the corner of Scott and Fearon Roads, is full of interest.
In 1890 the Council commenced manufacturing concrete
drain-pipes, etc., and since then the whole of the drains and
sewers in Shanghai have been laid with pipes of local pro-
duction. At times some interesting tests are made, such as
rolling a ten-ton steam roller over a 3-foot tube with only a
thin layer of earth above. At all times the manufacture of
pipes and gulleys, in wooden moulds, may be witnessed. In
1900 over 66,000 pieces were made. Near at hand, at the
corner of Yuhang Road, is the Municipal Electric Lighting
Station. This was acquired by the Council in 1893 for
Tls. 60,765. Improvements made since have brought up the
cost to Tls. 215,000. Next to this are the
Municipal Slaughterhouses,
built where formerly a switchback railway stood. In 1901
there were here slaughtered 17,317 oxen, 29,269 sheep, 3,944
calves, 1,896 pigs. The meat is inspected and stamped with
the words " Killed, Municipal Slaughterhouse," with the date.
Meat inferior, but good for food, is stamped " Stallman." No
meat is allowed to be sold from any shop unless it bears the
municipal stamp.
Return to the Garden Bridge by Fearon Road and Broadway.
5i
Route V
NORTHERN DISTRICT— "WEST OF NORTH
SZECHUEN ROAD
RIGHT in the heart of the Foreign Settlement there are
three places of interest, within five minutes' walk of each
other, that should not be missed : the Temple of the Queen of
Heaven, the Shanse Bankers' Guild House, the Mixed Court.
First, the Temple of the Queen of Heaven, Tien Hon Kong.
It is the large building on the North Honan Road, next to
the bridge over the Soochow Creek, on the Hongkew side.
This is a very popular temple, crowded at all festivals, and
usually much frequented. Behind are the official lodgings
for travelling Government officials. Li Hung Chang used to
stay here.
A wide gate gives entrance to an untidy court, much used by
loafers. The facade of the main building is very good, done
in diamond-shaped stonework, with two handsomely carved
medallions on each side. At each side of the door is a stone
lion, and these are in front of all official buildings as guards. " It
is believed that at night they are living lions, and are seen
roaming about."
The -two usual red flagstaffs are opposite the door, and
a broad piazza leads into the main open court. Overhead
is the theatre, in which, on festivals, crowds watch the plays.
There is a gallery at each side of the court for " the quality " ;
the common-folk cover the open space below. All kinds of
tradesmen occupy this entrance, and an obliging dentist will
draw teeth or puncture you with wires to let out rheumatism.
None can fail to be struck by the picturesqueness of this
52
Temple of the Queen of Heaven
central court. The tout ensemble is excellent, and makes
splendid photographs. At each side two two-storied buildings
like kiosks will be noted, with plastered second stories. The
gods in them show that the Chinese mind has been " feeling
after " the idea of omniscience. In the right-hand kiosk is the
image of Ching Tsiang Ching, who can hear anything said
within a thousand li of Shanghai (a li = one-third of a mile). His
vis-a-vis in the other kiosk is Liu Tsiang Ching, who sees any-
thing done within the same distance. An eye is carved in his
forehead, and is called " the thousand li eye." These two
deities are the assistants of the Queen of Heaven, who occupies
the place of honour in the main building, which is entered
through great doors. Dr. Du Bose gives the following account
of her : " She was in girlhood a Miss Ling, whose prophecies
were sure to be fulfilled. Once, when her four brothers were
at sea, she fell into a trance, and the loud lamentations of her
parents, who thought her dead, awakened her. She said she
had seen her brothers at sea in a typhoon, and soon after the
youngest brother returned and reported the drowning of the
other three. He saidithat during the storm a lady appeared in
mid-heaven, and by means of a rope dragged the ship into
safety. Miss Ling said it was she who had hastened to the
rescue of her brothers, but while in the act of saving them was
awakened by the cries of her parents. Her father was soon
after drowned at sea, and Miss Ling, in her grief, threw herself
into the foam. In after-years a mandarin travelling to Corea
was saved from a typhoon, an angel lamp guiding his boat to
an island where was already a temple to Miss Ling. Hence
she is the guardian of sailors, and her temple is near the busy
shipping of the creek." Her image is almost covered with
heavy yellow silk curtains, and the atmosphere of this temple
is generally thick with incense smoke. All the implements of
worship are much worn, the candlesticks are blackened with
smoke, and red candles of the tallow tree are ever burning.
The side altar to the left is to Kwanyin (the goddess of
mercy). On the right is a shrine to the " Three Pure Ones " :
the centre one is the " Ancient Original," the one on the right
the " Spiritual Precious," the other " Laotsze." These remain
S3
Shanse Bankers' Guild House
quietly in heaven, leaving the gods to direct the affairs of the
world.
From this temple a walk of a couple of hundred yards
brings us to the corner of a narrow lane, the Tsepoo Road.
There is a very neat and pretty Cantonese garden up this
lane, with blue-and-gold medallions opposite the red-and-
gold painted gate, which makes an excellent photograph.
Inside are ornamental rock-work, flowers, dwarf trees, and a
tasteful, clean hall, with chairs, scrolls, altar, and two good life-
Shanse Bankers' Guild House
sized pewter-ware storks. It is an oasis of cleanliness in the
surrounding squalor.
Some little distance beyond, at the intersection of the
Boone Road and North Honan Road, is the most sumptuous
Chinese building in Shanghai. This ought to be visited, if
every other is missed. It is the Shanse Bankers' Guild House,
the Dzah Tsong Way Quay, built in 1892, at a cost of at
least Tls. 150,000. Like all Chinese buildings, it makes no show
externally, but its long grey boundary wall cannot be mistaken.
54
Temple of Kwangti
There is no entrance by the front doors, which are open only
twice a year, in spring and autumn, at the anniversary of the
birth and death of Kwangti (the god of war).
Go along the drain side to the back of the building, turn
through a bamboo fence door, and knock at the back door of
the building ; permission to view it will be granted by the
watchman. The whole enclosure contains three courts and
four main buildings, and on entering there is a small court
with two octagonal gates, on the right. These typical Chinese
doorways make a good photograph.
Next is the reception-room, with tables, chairs, scrolls, altar,
and opium couches. Everything is spotlessly clean and good ;
but the visitor will be struck with the absence of comfort —
a stone floor, no fire, no hangings, all bare and hard. There
is no such thing as comfort in China.
The next hall is dedicated appropriately enough to the
god of wealth, locally known as Say Zung. Dr. Du Bose says
that Yuen Tan, who rides a black tiger and hurls a pearl that
bursts like a bomb, is the true god of wealth, but that he
has been supplanted by the other, who was one of five
brothers, and whose birthday is on the 5th day of the first
moon, and has two useful ministers, " Invite Riches " and
" Gain Market.'' The shrine is of red varnish picked out
with gold ; in front of him is a lion-legged red table, which has
three rows of well-executed battle scenes in relief, carved
on the front of it. Around the walls are twelve pewter figures
of gods, made at Ningpo. I have not seen idols made in this
material in any other temple. There are two fine life-sized
pewter storks, emblems of immortality.
We now come to the first open court, with galleries at each
side of it to enable spectators to witness plays on the
-theatrical stage at the other end. The balconies are finely
carved and are painted red and gold.
An empty transverse passage, dividing the whole enclosure
into two parts, is passed, and another reception-room like
the first, when we find ourselves in the temple of Kwangti
(the god of war), under a wonderfully carved and picturesque
canopy of red lacquer and gold. There is a fine black-wood
55
The Pa Sien
lamp with red tassels, and immense candlesticks 7 feet
high, of Ningpo pewter, in front of him. At each side are
rows of handsome halberds with red shafts and pewter heads,
all different, for use on state occasions for processions. They
are evidently conventionalised battle-axes.
In front of the rows of halberds, on each side, are two
groups of figures, four in each, very well done. These are
the eight immortals, the famous Pa Sien, "the legendary
beings of the Taoist sect who attained immortality." They
are : —
(1) Han Chung-li, "full set with a bunch of hair on each
side of his head " ; the patriarch of the genii revealed to him
the secret of immortality.
(2) Tih Kwali. " A wild beast ate his body while his spirit
was wandering round at night, and he found a lame beggar's
body, which he appropriated."
(3) Chang Kwoolao, a necromancer, "a contemporary of
the Emperor Yao and Shun."
(4) Han Siangtz, nephew of the scholar Han Yu, who left
home as a child and studied magical arts. On returning, he
dashed on the floor a glass of wine, which turned into a
nosegay.
(5) Lan Tsai-ho carried a flower basket and wandered shoe-
less through the world, singing verses denunciatory of the
transitoriness of things.
(6) Tsao Kwo-kiu, " said to be the son of a general of Tsao
Piu, who died in a.d. 999." Brother of Empress Tsao Hou ;
wears a court head-dress.
(7) Ho Sien Koo, daughter of Ho Tai of Tseng-cheng,
Canton. " She refused food, ate mother-of-pearl, and became
immortal."
(8) Lon Tung Ping, born a.d. 755, learnt alchemy from
Chung Li, " overcame ten temptations, and is armed with a
magic sword to rid the world of evils."
Beyond this hall of Kwangti is another open court, with
a theatre. There is a curious spiral dome on the stage with
a mirror in the roof, in which you see yourself upside-down.
Outside this theatre is the entrance court, the front of which
56
Railway Station
is a magnificent specimen of Chinese art and ought not to
be missed. The doorway is wonderful, with remarkably fine
and elaborate carving over it. The stone lozenge work of
the walls is in perfect condition.
At the Bankers' Guild, just described, we are not far
from the
Mixed Court
A description of this is given in the account of the govern-
ment of Shanghai. This is the court in which Chinese must
be sued. A native magistrate sits, assisted by a foreign
assessor, as Shanghai is not a foreign possession, but only
leased to foreigners. Chinese are amenable to their own law,
which is, however, tempered by the foreign assessor, and no
torture is allowed.
To find the court, go up the Boone Road till you reach
the Chekiang Road, and the court is held in a large bare
hall, open to the public. Sittings commence about 10 a.m. ;
the accused kneels on the floor before the magistrate. The
chief punishments inflicted are bambooing, imprisonment,
and deportation, and the infliction of the punishment of
bambooing may be witnessed in the afternoon, about 4 p.m.,
by those who wish to see it. There is nothing else of par-
ticular interest in this part of the North District.
The Country
The railway station is off the extreme end of the North
Honan Road, and is a neat structure. Even if there is no
intention of going to Woosung (which see), it is worth a visit,
for it is worked exclusively by Chinese.
A walk to the new Rifle Range may be taken by con-
tinuing along the roadway in a line with the North Honan
Road.
The large straw-roofed buildings on the left after passing
the station approach- are native ice-houses. Immense shallow
ponds supply the ice in the cold weather, and men wade out
into the ponds, break the ice, rake it in, however thin, and
store it in ice-houses.
57
Ice Houses
These ice-houses are mentioned in that most interesting
book "The Nemesis in China," which contains an account of
the conquest of Shanghai. Visiting the famous tea-houses in
the native city, the writer says : " Among the many remarkable
objects of Shanghai were the enormous ice-houses, both
within and without the city, in which ice is stored for public
use. This was a real luxury to our soldiers and sailors when
the place was taken." These soldiers and sailors knew nothing
about germs, yet enjoyed the ice and lived. This ice is viewed
with suspicion by the sanitary authorities to-day.
The road continues for about a mile to the Rifle' Butts
station through pleasant country. Cross the line at the station
and go right on to the range, which is an exceedingly fine
one. There are stationary and movable targets ; there is a
telephone connecting markers and shooters.
Between the range and the railway is the new Recreation
Ground, which is being laid out as a park (see excursion to
Woosung). There is now a new road back to the Settlement
from the Rifle Range to Range Road and North Szechuen
Road.
There are two small temples in this piece of country which
are worth visiting. We should be accompanied by a guide,
as neither of them is perhaps easy to find. Both are best
reached from the end of Woosung Road, at the bottom of
Range Road.
The Sing Sing Aye, a small and mean-looking Cantonese
temple, looks externally like a farm ; it is close to a new
black-brick foreign house, which has a large porcelain stork on
the roof. Internally this joss-house is very clean, and all the
appointments are of excellent workmanship. There is a good
gilt shrine to Buddha, and smaller ones to Kwanyin, and
Dien Zaung Waung, who does " bottomside. pidgin " (the god
of the infernal regions), as I was told by the Chinaman who
was with me.
The other joss-house is a Buddhist nunnery, the Sing
Zing Aye ; and close to the high bamboo fence surrounding
it is a boundary stone marked " W. S. W. B. C. Lot 188."
Admission may be obtained by knocking at the black wooden
58
The Sing Zing Aye
doors. The whole interior is a complete surprise, owing to
the richness and elegance of its carvings and images. A gilt
Buddha sits on the sacred lotus, on a carved gilt stand; at
his left foot is Waydoo, the Apollo of the gods, protector
of the law of Buddha ; at his right foot is Kwangti (the god
of war), with his battle-axe. To the left is a shrine to Dien
Zaung Waung, crowned and holding in his hand a sacred
crystal globe. In a rich Cantonese blackwood case are the
" Three Pure Ones. There is a very fine gong and beautiful
hanging lamps.
59
Route VI
DRIVE TO THE POINT
THIS is one of the drives that every visitor ought to make.
It gives a glimpse of the industrial district of the Settle-
ment, while at the terminus is one of the best views Shanghai
can afford. For we make no pretence of competing with
Garden Bridge
Hongkong, with its magnificent panorama of sea and mountain
from the Peak. The Point, however, is well worth a visit.
Starting from the Garden Bridge, we drive along Broadway,
a reminder that we are in the old American Settlement.
60
The American Settlement
The shops are mainly Chinese and Japanese. Excellent
cane chairs, deck chairs, occasional tables, etc., are on sale,
and the cheaper Japanese stores are situated here, where all
kinds of curios may be bought, often cheaper than in Nagasaki.
The stores of the great Chinese ships-chandlers and compra-
deres will be noted here, where everything nautical can be
purchased, from an anchor to a pot of paint and barrels of
salt beef.
The Church of Our Saviour, belonging to the American
Protestant Episcopal Church Mission, in which services are
held in English every Sunday, with its square tower, has a very
home-like appearance. It is the oldest church building in the
Settlement.
Instead of taking the above-outlined route, the turn to the
right may be taken along the Whangpoo Road, passing the
Astor House Hotel.
The Astor House, occupying the whole of the space at the
corner of Broadway and Whangpoo Roads, is a conspicuous
feature of Shanghai life, where the traveller can take his ease
and find every comfort supplied lavishly enough to satisfy the
veriest sybarite. Splendidly situated, with a fine view over the
river, near the Bund, it has progressed continuously since its.
founding, by Mr. D. C. Jansen in i860, up to its recent
extension under the energetic company now owning it.
There are two hundred rooms, all of them outside rooms —
that is, none of them face the quadrangle inside — hence every
room has abundant fresh air. They are single and en suite.
Every bedroom has its own bathroom, with hot and cold
water available day and night. The dining-room, elegantly
decorated, is capable of dining three hundred guests at one
time. There is a comfortable ladies' lounge or drawing-
room, a reading- and smoke-room. The billiard-room has
four of Thurston's tables, and there is an American bar.
The hotel has its own electric plant, supplying the two
thousand lights that illuminate the building, power being
generated by four Crossley gas-engines. The hotel also has
its own ice-making plant, and its own refrigerating chamber
of thirty tons capacity.
61
ASTOR HOUSE HOTEL
New portion at rear showing bedroom accommodation
Astor House Hotel
Astop House Hotel
The building is steam-heated in winter, and kept delightfully
cool in summer by electric fans. Three lifts are at the service
of visitors, while the amateur photographer can have his plates
developed and his pictures printed on the premises. There is
also a barber.
The Hotel Garden on the opposite side of the road must
not be forgotten. The view across the river is always interest-
ing, and in summer the strains of the Town Band, which
plays at 5 and 9 p.m., can be enjoyed as well as in the
Public Gardens themselves. Passenger agents (runners) meet
all steamers ; night porters are in attendance, and refresh-
ments may be obtained any time day or night.
The new German Church is next to the Astor House. This
is a very handsome building with a graceful spire. The chief
feature of the interior is the oil painting on the altar [Altarschreiri)
presented by the present Emperor of Germany. The massive
buildings of the German Consulate are opposite the church,
the Consulate occupying the most desirable site in Shanghai,
its front facing the river; it was erected in 1884-5. The
Consul-General's residence adjoins, and beyond are the
Consulates-General of the United States and Austro- Hungary.
The carriage might be left at this point, and the way down any
one of the side streets to the right might be taken to see the
fine wharf of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha Co., and the Japanese
Consulate. The wharf gives a good idea of the varied traffic
of Shanghai. Coolies swarm like ants, while steamers, cargo-
boats, and sampans crowd the river.
Broadway is regained by the side of the Hongkew Creek,
which is remarkable for its crowd of sampans. The Hong-
kew Creek is a very busy waterway, up to the left side of
which (Fearon Road) are the Shanghai Electric Lighting
Works and the Municipal Slaughterhouse.
Just over the bridge on the right are the head offices and
works of the great ship-building and engineering trade of
Shanghai— Farnham, Boyd & Co., Ltd., shipwrights, engineers,
and boiler makers. This dock was founded in 1862 by Mr.
Farnham, and, after absorbing the Shanghai Engineering and
Dock Co., amalgamated with Boyd & Coy., who owned
64
Cotton Mills
the Pootung and New Docks. This company, with a capital of
Tls. 5,520,000, has the largest foreign staff — 90 foreigners— of
any concern in the Settlement. The old dock premises cover
16 acres, and the dock itself is 400 feet long. Of the others,
the Tunkadoo dock, opposite the native city, is 380 feet long ;
the Cosmopolitan dock, one mile below the harbour limits
■on the Pootung side, is 560 feet long ; and Boyd's new dock,
450 feet long. If the visitor, by application to the secretary,
can manage to get permission to view the docks, by all means
let him do so. They are infinitely creditable to the enterprise
•of Shanghai. Anything in shipbuilding, from the building of
a warship to the most difficult feats of repairing, can be done
by the supremely able staff. Visitors who through ignorance
have a low opinion of Chinese labour will be astounded at
the skill shown by the'native workmen in handling complicated
foreign machinery.
The Sailors' Home is the only noticeable building until
Wayside is reached, where the Yangtszepoo Road commences.
At Wayside are the works of the Aquarius Table Water
Company.
The Yangtszepoo Road is a fine broad thoroughfare, where
one may see the primeval and the brand-new modern building
side by side — old China and new China : reed hovels on one side,
and Cotton Mills equal to the best in Manchester on the other.
On the right-hand side of this road are the new cotton
spinning mills of Shanghai. Taking them in order after the
Paper Mill, they are the Soey Chee Mill (Arnhold Karberg),
the Laou Kung Mow (Ilbert & Co.), and the Ewo Mill
(Jardine's). They were all opened in 1897 or thereabouts,
and each contains, as does the Yah Loong Mill farther on,
from 40,000 to 60,000 spindles ; altogether there must be over
300,000 spindles in the ten or twelve cotton mills of Shanghai.
Owing to unexpected difficulties as to supply and price of
cotton, as well as to the difficulty of procuring and training
labour, the mills have not been the financial success antici-
pated ; but there is no reason to doubt that the future will be
brighter. As to Chinese labour, interesting statistics were
given at a meeting of the Engineers' Society in April, 1902, by
65 5
Shanghai Waterworks
Mr. J. Kerfoot, manager Of the. Ewo. Mill. He said "the
Chinaman was from 40 to 50 per cent, cheaper than white
labour, but that it took two and a half Chinamen to do the
work of one European." He " denied the non-success of the
cotton mills was attributable to the labour; if all the other
matters were on a par with the workers, the mills would always
return good dividends. Chinese labour was 10 to 20 per cent,
cheaper than similar Indian and Japanese work ; and when the
mills started, the ratio of Chinese to Lancashire labour was
four to one, now it was two to one .and 30 to 40 per cent,
cheaper."
Next to the Ewo Mills are the premises of the New Chinese
Spinning and Weaving Co. ; and then the filter beds, pumping
stations, and other works of the Shanghai Waterworks Co.
The curious topsy-turviness of things in China is unaltered by
even a foreign institution like the waterworks : in the West the
intake of water would, of course, be above the city ; here
in Shanghai it is below the city. The reason is that at
Shanghai the best water is not that which comes down the
Whangpoo, but that which is forced up by the tide outside from
the great sweet stream of the Yangtsze-kiang, and Shanghai
drinks Yangtsze water. It must be remembered, too, that
in China no offensive sewage flows into the streams. The
entrance lodge, ivy-covered, presents a handsome appearance.
The company was formed in 1881, and commenced to supply
water in 1883. After being pumped from the river, and after
settling in large reservoirs, the water is filtered by the ordinary
process of sand filtration. It is then pumped by powerful
engines to the water-tower, Kiangse Road (capacity, 150,000
gallons). During a very hot day in summer the consump-
tion equals 5,500,000 gallons. Permission to view the works
may be obtained at the offices of the company, 69, Kiangse
Road.
The Yah Loong Mill and Ewo Waste Silk Mill passed, we
come to the bridge over the Yangtszepoo Creek, before crossing
which the neat building of the Yangtszepoo Police Station
may be noticed. It was built in 1890 and is $% miles from
the Garden Bridge.
66
The Point
If the traveller has time, he would do well to take this oppor-
tunity of visiting a Chinese temple and see what is commonly
known as the Red Josshouse (in Chinese, Tien Hon Kong).
Go up the footpath between the Police Station compound
and the creek, and the temple is visible all the way and the
path is good. One bridge has to be crossed before entering
the temple by the door on the creek side, when the attendant
priests will show the visitor round. This temple is always
scrupulously clean and in good condition. In the great hall
is a fine gilt Buddha, with his companions ; in another, a
Buddhist hell, where every description of physical torment is
vividly shown by coloured plaster figures : men being sawn in
two, boiled, split, pierced, etc., and it becomes obvious, on
inspection, that if men could be made good by the threat of
future punishment, the Chinese would have been a model
nation long ago. There is also another hall full of idols. In
the courtyard there is painted on the walls a figure of the
monkey god ; next to it is the furnace for burning waste paper.
Printed paper is sacred in China, and to pick it up off the
streets is religiously meritorious. To this is due the freedom
of Shanghai streets from littered paper.
Returning to the bridge and rejoining the carriage, the road
leads past mills and the houses of the Chinese hands — the Dan
Too Oil Mill and the large mill of the Chinese-owned Cotton
Cloth Mills. The old mill (the first in Shanghai), containing
27,000 spindles, was destroyed by fire in 1893, and the present
one was opened in 1895.
From this point the drive is very pleasant between rows of
willows, with paddy and wheat fields and waste ground on
each side, and a full view of the broad stream of the Whangpoo.
The Point Hotel is soon reached, where excellent refreshments
may be obtained ; tiffins and dinners may be ordered before-
hand. A pleasant time may be spent wandering about the
grass and among the trees, and watching the traffic on the
river. The Point should, if possible, be visited slightly before
high water. Beyond the Point is the splendidly equipped mill
of the China Flour Mill Co. ; it is furnished with the most
recent English machinery, and produces every variety of flour,
67
Seward Road
meal, brown meal, groats, etc., and is well worth a visit. The
road may be continued to Woosung some day.
Return may be made by the same route, as the Hongkew
district is poorly provided with roads, or, for the sake of variety,
the greater part of the way back may be made by the Seward
Road. Return to the commencement of Yangtszepoo Road ;
turn to the right at Wayside, past the works of the Aquarius
Mineral Water Co., bearing to the left just past the works.
This is the Seward Road, which takes you straight back to the
Garden Bridge. This road is well worth seeing. Foreign
houses are few ; for a mile from the Settlement it is almost
purely Chinese. The cyclist must beware of the leisurely
Celestial, who has no idea of moving out of the way.
68
Route VII
SINZA
SLIGHTLY out of the ordinary beat of the tourist and
unknown to many residents is the district known as
Sinza. The name means the New Barrier, to distinguish it
from the Louza or Old Barrier, farther down the creek, the
name of which is perpetuated in the Police Station in the
Nanking Road. Both barriers are now swept away. This
district presents some objects of interest, which ought not to be
missed, to be found nowhere else in the Settlement, and,
generally, it is a happy hunting-ground for all in search of
pictures of Chinese life. It is the district, broadly speaking,
on the north or right-hand side, when we are at the top of the
Nanking Road. We may also approach it by going up the
Peking Road, whither gravitate all the bottles, tobacco, mustard,
fruit, biscuit, and kerosene oil tins of the foreigners, which,
according to Mr. Arthur Smith, the house-boys " absorb."
It may be reached along the Lloyd and Chekiang Roads, from
the Nanking Road. Chinese temples are fairly numerous,
a very accessible one being the Zen Sung Aye, No. V.
747, Peking Road, at the corner of Peking and Kweichow
Roads.
Entering by the side door, the usual pair of idols
faces us, Midoo and Waydoo. Crossing the court to the
main temple, Buddha is seated on the lotus. To the left and
right of him are two images of Kwanyin (the queen of heaven).
She, in this temple, is much visited by women who desire
a son. Through an oblong court you find two halls, in one of
which is a most ghastly Buddhist hell, with smoke-grimed
69
Buddhist Torturers
metal figures of demons torturing the damned. On the upper
shelf are the heavenly yamen runners — that is, the underlings
of the gods who do their bidding, just as the yamen runners
on earth are the mandarins' servants. On the lower shelf are
the tortures — dogs worrying men, men being mashed under a
In the Soochow Cemetery, Sinza Road
rice-hammer, tied on a lion's back, hung up by hooks, being
boiled in oil, being disembowelled, "sawn asunder," being
swung by the hands, which are tied behind the back, and so
on through all the gamut of the diabolical Chinese imagina-
tion. The Chinamen may well fear the "josses."
Not far along the Sinza Road there is a small lane to
the right called the Dai Wong Miao Road : in this is a very
70
Sinza Road
popular temple, the Dai Wong Miao. The idol is a little old
man with a grey beard. In a hall to the right is the thunder
god, locally called Li Tsu Da Ti, and sometimes, Wen Tai Sz.
■" His chief temple is in the province of Kwangtung, where a
woman found an egg more than a foot round and carried
it home. One day it split with a noise like thunder and
liberated a child. The townsmen erected a temple to com-
memorate the prodigy, and the place is called Lui-chou-fu."
A wonderful procession starts from this temple one day
at the end of April, and perambulates the district, which is en
ftte with new lanterns, silk embroideries, flags, drums, and
cymbals. A feature in the procession is six enormously fat
men, who are clad in crimson silk flowing robes, and have their
bodies naked to the waist. They are intended to represent
Midoo. A wonderful paper dragon 30 feet long is carried
in the procession. There are one or two other unimportant
temples near at hand.
The principal sights to be seen in Sinza are the Chinese
mortuaries, or cemeteries — the former is the better word. It is
well known that the one desire of a Chinaman is to be buried
in his ancestral town or village. If he dies away from home,
his body must be sent back to his native place ; but it is not
always convenient to send it at once — his friends may not
be able to afford it, and it takes some time for his relations
at home to fix on a lucky site for his grave. The richer he is
the longer it takes the priest to pitch on one. A poor man is
soon settled, as nothing is to be got out of him in the way
of fees. The corpse of a rich man can be kept above ground
until his estate has been well bled. These and other reasons
make it possible that the body of a Chinaman who dies in
a strange place may have to be kept a couple of years, until
it can be consigned to its final resting-place. Consequently
some place must be provided for the safe custody of the dead
belonging to various localities, and as Shanghai has more
Chinese from other parts of the empire than any other place,
its mortuaries are the largest and most numerous.
Sinza is the district to see these extraordinary mortuaries.
The Cantonese have two, the Nanking, Hoochow, and
7J
Chinese Mortuaries
Soochow people each one. Three of them are close together;
the Nanking mortuary is B. 456, Sinza Road. A near way to
it from the Settlement is up the' Bubbling Well Road and Park
Road, then, when Sinza Road is reached, it is a little way
up on the right. Enter by a. large gate with circular arches,
and inside will be found arbours, courts, kiosks, garden,
parlours, guild rooms, tea-rooms, etc.,' ornamented with shrubs,
good wood carving, and scrolls, all very characteristically
Chinese. The bodies are stored in locked rooms.
But the most extraordinary is the Cantonese mortuary ; it is
Graves in Cantonese Cemetery, Sinza Road
perhaps the most remarkable sight in Shanghai. It is No. 457,
Sinza Road, next to the preceding. Entering under a large arch,
one proceeds along a broad, bricked drive that gives the
impression of a drive to a foreign residence; then looking
around the astonished eye sees hundreds and hundreds of
brick graves, such as are common in the country round
Shanghai. There they stretch, side by side, in phalanxes and
regiments, rows on rows of them, covering a space double that
of the British Consular compound. Each grave has a stone
with the name of the dead in red letters. Broken coffins are
scattered about, from which the bones have been taken to be
72
Sooehow Mortuary
" potted " and sent to Canton. One realises the hold that the
dead have on the living in China. A panoramic photograph
of this should be taken, if you are the possessor of a panoramic
camera. There is one thing here that could be seen nowhere
but in China — a bridge across a broad ditch, of which the
central pier is a pile of coffins.
The bricked drive leads to an immense pile of buildings-
in the north side of the compound — temples, mortuaries,
council-rooms. There is a fine long court in front of the
whole line of buildings, with good gates leading from one to-
the other. The first building (locked) is the Ching Mo Zz,
containing memorial tablets ; the next is a fine temple to-
Buddha. The shrines to the left and right are to Too Dien and
Dien Tsu. At the west end are quantities of " potted China-
men." The pots are of rough brown earthenware, about i&
inches high, and sealed at the top. They contain the bones of
Chinese, and are awaiting removal to Canton. There are long
passages, each with eighteen dark rooms full of coffins ; there
are also curious courts and passages with creepers and dwarf
plants, and behind all a garden with rockwork into which
a writhing dragon has been carved. In process of time this
cemetery will be removed up the creek opposite the Fou Fong
Flour Mill.
A little farther up the Sinza Road, at No. B. 1,259 (next to a
silk filature, No. 12), is the Sooehow mortuary. This is very
different from the Cantonese one just described. Chinese
buildings are not all alike, as is frequently thought. This
Sooehow mortuary is not so sombre in style as the last ; wood
largely takes the place of stone in the buildings, which are
quaintly beautiful. The photographers will get capital studies
of queer corners, gables, zigzag passages, and arbours. Two-
fine guild-halls are first found, utterly comfortless, but good —
good scrolls, carving, and furniture. Leaving these, go into-
a bijou garden with trellises, rockwork, dwarf flowering shrubs,
and surrounded by buildings of open carved work. Pass
through a sliding door to the mortuary proper, where you find
double rows of wooden mortuary cells containing the remains
of Sooehow people. Down the centre of the quadrangle are
73
Chinese Creek Life
larger wooden buildings for the rich. Looking through the
glass windows one sees their silk-covered coffins, surrounded
by scrolls and inscriptions on silk and paper. The return
may be made by the Carter Road, in which are the Japanese
and Canton women's cemeteries.
There are other features of Sinza which may be of interest
to some. The industrial side of Shanghai is seen on both
sides of the busy Soochow Creek. The Ice Company's works,
Gas Company's works, and cotton mills are on the south side,
and rice and acid works with silk filatures on the north side.
The Soochow Creek at the upper part of Sinza affords
plenty of objects of interest. Chinese creek life may be well
seen along the Markham Road up to the foot of the new
Robison Road in the loading and unloading of boats, bring-
ing down pottery, fruit, vegetables, baskets, mats, brushes,
sandals, etc., from the country ; on the south side boat-building
is carried on, while beggars squat on every patch of vacant
ground.
The portion of the Sinza Road from its junction with the
Carter Road, westward, running round to the Cross Road at
the Yu Yuen Gardens, is very pretty, and a favourite ride.
There are good residences all the way along. Soon after
leaving the Carter Road there will be noticed on the right
a black boundary wall. These enclose the grounds of a
Chinese gentleman, Mr. Sing Chun Ching, who very kindly
permits strangers to view them.
74
Route VIII
COUNTRY EXTENSION
SINCE the boundaries of the Settlement were enlarged in
1899, the Municipal Council has been most laudably
active in providing new roads for the rapidly growing com-
munity. Their foresight has been beyond all praise. The
rider, cyclist, and pedestrian, on the new country roads, are well
provided for ; for driving, a pair of ponies ought to be taken,
as the roads are not yet macadamised.
A very favourite ride or walk is by Robison Road. It is
reached by turning into the Carter Road a short distance past
the Race Club on the Bubbling Well Road, then continue up
the Markham Road. Note the signs over the shops in Carter
Road, some of which are remarkable specimens of English.
Markham Road has foreign residences on one side, and the
Shanghai Brewery and a silk filature on the other. From this
point to the foot of the Robison Road the road skirts the
Soochow Creek, where the I.M. Customs has a station. The
inland commerce of China may be well seen here, and its extent
appreciated ; the fleets of boats sailing up with the tide make
excellent pictures. Much produce from the interior is landed
here. The road continues along the creek side to the Yu
Yuen Cotton Mill.
A country walk may be taken from this point by crossing
the bridge, going up the side of the mill boundary wall and
through a village, and up the creek side to the Fou Fong
Flour Mill, a new mill fitted with the latest American
machinery.
Robison Road is named after an old resident . who was
one of the original shareholders in the Shanghai Club. It
75
Robison Road
is still "a soft road," excellent for riding, a little heavy for
driving, and quite passable for cyclists. There are two right-
angled turns in it, of which riders, when galloping, should
beware ; the first is at the end of about half a mile of straight
road after crossing the second bridge, the second about three-
quarters of a mile higher up. For those who have not much
time to spend in Shanghai, it gives a good opportunity of
seeing a little of the agriculture of the district — rice and cotton
in summer, wheat in May.
Ferry Road, branching off to the right, leads to the Soochow
Creek. At. the head of Robison Road is an empty cotton
mill, in and around which the British Indian troops were
camped from 1900 to 1902.
After crossing a bridge the Jessfield Road is reached - r
thence home by Bubbling Well Road.
The best country excursion has been briefly described in the
section on the Bubbling Well Road. Drive to the top of the-
Jessfield Road, turn up Brennan Road ; this gives a capital view
of rural China. The traveller will also see a likin station oh the
Soochow Creek at the Tajao village. After passing this likin
station, turn to the left along the Rubicon Road (so named
from the Rubicon Creek, alongside of which it runs^ well
known to paper hunters), then to the left again down the
Hungjao Road (which is to be continued to the hills), thence
home by French Road, or Siccawei and Bubbling Well Roads.
76
Route IX
DRIVE TO SICCAWEI
ATRIP to Siccawei, or Zi-ka-wei, to see the great Jesuit
Mission, must by no means be omitted. The distance
.(just about five miles or eight kilometres) is trifling, and the
journey may be made on foot, on a bicycle, or in a carriage.
The usual route is through the French Settlement and up
the French Siccawei Road. The return journey may be made
by the Siccawei Road to the Bubbling Well, and thence by
the Bubbling Well Road to the Nanking Road. If this latter
Toute be taken and the visitor be driving, he ought to
have a strong horse in his carriage, as the Siccawei Road is very
.soft and makes heavy going for a single China pony. One
China pony can do it — he can do almost anything ; but
foreigners ought to show the Chinese the greatly needed
example of mercy to animals.
About the French Siccawei Road not much need be said.
A description of the part of the drive as far as St. Catherine's
Bridge will be found in the account of the drive to Loongwha.
The first building to the right after passing the bridge is the
•Seventh Day Baptist Mission (U.S.A.). From this point the
drive is a very pleasant one, the road being shaded by trees,
among which acacias are numerous. The creek affords the
photographer capital studies of the beggar and straw-boats, which
are very numerous here. There is a very picturesque bend in
the creek about half-way to Siccawei, with a thick grove of trees
that makes an excellent subject. The immense number of
grave mounds across the creek must be noted ; it has been
said that in China you are never " out of sight of either a
living Chinaman or a dead one."
77
Sleeawei
The Loongwha Powder Mill can be seen across the country
on the left, and one or two houses on the Bubbling Well Road
on the right.
Sicawei village is not much in itself; it owes its whole
importance to the mission.
The Su family (whence the name, which means the place of
the Su family) founded it, and the most noteworthy member
was Su, a mandarin, during the Ming dynasty (about a.d. 1580).
He accepted Christianity under Ricci, the famous Jesuit
missionary, of whom there is an oil painting in the Observatory
library. Under him the whole neighbourhood became
practically Christian. During the persecution of Christianity
that followed under Yung Ching (a.d. 1722) and his successors,
the Jesuits had to leave the district, and Christianity became
almost but not quite extinct. With the nucleus of remaining
native Christians the Jesuit fathers recommenced their work
about 1840, and the present extensive mission is the result of
their self-denying labours. It is probably one of the best-
equipped missions in the world.
Arrived at Siccawei village, turn to the left and continue for
about half a mile, and you will find the mission premises, the
Girls' Orphanage and Boys' Orphanage. Cross the bridge
and enter the gate of the Girls' Orphanage of the " Convent
for the Assistance of Souls in Purgatory." Here, as in all
mission premises, visitors are most courteously received;
ladies unaccompanied by a gentleman are, however, not
admitted. One of the sisters acts as guide. The industrial
departments are of great interest. Girls are taught to earn
their living after leaving school; silk and satin embroidery
is done to perfection, and a screen made by the girls won a
prize at the Paris Exhibition of 1900. Embroideries are made
both for church adornment and for private use, for which
orders may be given. The delicacy of the work is incredible.
The visitor is then shown the weaving, dressmaking, washing,
and ironing departments, where the snowy whiteness of the
cotton and linen proves that the art of washing is well
understood.
In the women's side of the establishment is a home for
78
Sieeawei Orphanages
destitute old women, who are employed in looking after a
creche for deserted children. I can hardly advise any one to
see these children, and certainly no woman ought to see them;
some of them are such unspeakably pitiable and dreadful
objects. The visitor may also inspect the school and the
church, which has a fine high altar.
The Boys' Orphanage will next be visited ; some two hundred
boys receive a thoroughly sound education. One of the fathers
kindly acts as guide, and the numerous visitors must be a
severe tax on their energies. If it is a school year, a class may
be shown ; but school cannot be interrupted too much. The
industrial departments, however, do not suffer from the in-
trusion of visitors, and are fully shown. The boys' work is
equal to that of experts ; the woodwork is excellent. The
boys make not only ecclesiastical articles, but furniture, well-
designed sideboards, occasional tables, and other articles of
furniture, which all show what skill the boys have attained to,
and the profits made assist the funds of the institution. The
painting-room should receive special attention ; the boys are
taught drawing and tracing, and they copy pictures of eccle-
siastical subjects for churches and schools and for private
purchasers. Copies of the masterpieces of Europe are put
before the boys. Whether the Chinese can be taught to paint
imaginative subjects "out of their own heads" or to paint
from nature is not settled by the work done here. There is
also a thoroughly efficient printing department, where first-class
work is done ; school-books of all kinds are published, as well
as the original sinological works of the fathers, many of which
are of great importance. We may also be fortunate enough
to see the boys drill and hear their music. Some are quite
capable of accompanying the church service on the harmonium.
The scholastic work done in Shanghai district by the
Jesuits, who have their headquarters at Sieeawei, will be appre-
ciated from these figures, which I take from an interesting
article in the fourth number, of The East of Asia, by Mr. C.
Fink. Number of schools in Shanghai and district, 839 : for
boys, 390 ; for girls, 449. Of these, 96 of the boys' schools
take boarders, and 97 of the girls'. Pupils: boys, 3,262;
79
Siccawei Observatory
girls, 2,113, as boarders. Total pupils: boys, 11,262; girls,
5,309. In addition there is at Siccawei a High School, St.
Ignatius College.
After leaving the school, the Carmelite Nunnery will be
:seen inside a compound with white walls.
We must now visit the most famous and best building of
all — the Observatory. This is one of the great observatories
■of the world, the fathers in charge of it being in communication
with astronomers and meteorologists of all nations. It is
the Observatory of the Far East, receiving reports from
:Some sixty stations daily, and is responsible for the weather
prophecies of the Far East, and forecasts of the weather appear
•daily in the Shanghai papers. It is responsible for the signals
•exhibited at the signal station on the French Bund, near the
bridge across the Yang-king-pang Creek, and all shipping in
the East depends upon it.
, Promptly at twelve o'clock a time-ball falls at Shanghai,
which is in electric communication with Siccawei. Daily the
fathers issue weather-charts, one in French and one in
English, which give particulars of the weather for the day,
the movements of typhoon and other disturbances being
graphically noted.
The Observatory is a little beyond the Orphanage buildings
just visited. Cross the compound, send in your card, and one
■of the fathers in charge will be kind enough to show you all
that may be shown. In the hall is an instrument on which
the barometric and thermometric readings are automatically
registered, along with the readings of the anemometer, which is
.at the top of the solidly built tower.
On the right of the hall is the library of literature connected
•with the work of the institution. Reports of learned societies,
■etc., MS. reports from the stations, and reports from captains
■of steamers are carefully indexed and kept in drawers. The
visitor should try and get a sight of the great map of the
Yangtsze, which is on sixty sheets, by Father Chevalier.
This Observatory was built in the year 1900, taking the place
■of an older one built in 1870, which is now used for photographic
purposes. Near the old observatory is the Natural History
80
Nanyang: College
Museum. This owes its existence to Father Heude, botanist,
ornithologist, geologist, sinologue — in fact, a man who seemed
to know everything and had been everywhere, from Java to
Thibet. His collection of the plants of China is unrivalled,
and should be seen, as well as the specimens of the animals
of China.
In visiting Siccawei, if a start is made in the morning, it is as
well to take with you tiffin to eat in the carriage at noon, when
all the mission premises are closed to visitors ; and it is a good
plan to see the schools in the morning and the Observatory
after tiffin.
After seeing the sights of Siccawei, we may return by the
French Road, or make a round by the Siccawei Road to the
Bubbling Well ; but this should not be done if the carriage
has only one pony. Suppose we do, however, make this
round, note the Hungjao Road on the left ; the opening to it
is among a row of Chinese houses. This is a new road now
extending about five miles into the country, and intended
ultimately to reach the " hills," where the Jesuit fathers have
a mission and observatory. A few yards farther on are the
two handsome red-brick blocks of Nanyang College, for the
higher education of Chinese youths. It was opened in 1898.
The Chinese Telegraph Administration and China Merchant
Steamship Company, through Shong Kung Pao, built the
College under the advice and direction of Dr. J. C. Ferguson,
the first principal. The grounds and buildings are well worth
a visit. Leaving Nanyang College, the new French Road is
on the right, and this affords a shorter route home than the
Siccawei Road.
Both roads give a stranger a good idea of the country round
Shanghai, with its villages, graves, bamboo groves, and in
summer its enormous fertility.
If the route by the "Bubbling Well be taken, tea may be had
at the St. George's Farm near the Well.
For subjects of interest between the Well and Shanghai, see
the " Drive to Jessfield."
Route X
DRIVE TO LOONGWHA PAGODA AND
TEMPLE
THERE is one imperative reason why every visitor to
Shanghai ought, if possible, to enjoy this drive — it is
the only chance Shanghai affords of a sight of a pagoda.
These structures, by the way, are not scattered about China as
plentifully as pepper on a plate, as Western artists depict
them in their fancy views of China : they are scarce rather
than otherwise ; consequently the traveller round the world,
who possibly calls at Hongkong and Shanghai only of Chinese
ports, will have to leave the country without seeing one of its
most characteristic architectural features, if he does not
embrace the opportunity of seeing this famous pagoda (Chinese,
tah) at Loongwha, which is one of the best preserved in
China.
A carriage drawn by a strong horse rather than a Chinese
pony should be ordered ; the road is somewhat rough in parts,
and nothing detracts more from a drive than the feeling that
you are overdriving a wearied animal. The cost will be $4,
and I will describe the usual route rather than the possible, but
unusual one by the Whangpoo side, along the French and
Chinese Bunds.
Starting from the Bund, we may take one of two or more
routes through the Foreign Settlement. We may go by the
French Bund, up the Rue de Consulat, at the top of which
road we may take any turn to the left and reach the Quai de la
Breche, which is only separated from the walls of the native
city by the moat or creek.
We may reach the same point on this road by driving up the
82
Ningpo Joss-house
Nanking Road, turning to the left along the Yunnan Road,
■crossing the Yang-king-pang Creek, and continuing along the
Rue de Palikao, in which, enclosed in a compound, we note
the premises of the Southern Methodist Mission (U.S.A.).
Immediately on the left, when we reach the Quai de la
Breche, we observe a long line of yellow-plastered wall ; inside
this is the renowned " Ningpo Joss-house." This is not so
much a temple, as the headquarters of the natives of Ningpo,
who form the most numerous class of immigrants into
Shanghai ; many of the most important native bankers, com-
pradores, and storekeepers hail from Ningpo, as well as the
best houseboys and the sampan-men. The good Chinaman's
most intense desire is to be buried in his ancestral city or
village, and in this joss-house there is accommodation for the
•coffins of deceased Ningpo men, until such time as the
geomancers pronounce lucky for the removal of the deceased
to Ningpo or the family can afford the removal. There are
:similar joss-houses for natives of other places. It was an
unlucky proposal of the French Municipal Council to drive
a road through the grounds of this joss-house, which provoked
-a riot on July 16th, 1898. On the right-hand side of the road,
opposite the joss-house, there is a large burial-ground for the
poorer Ningpo people ; each grave is marked by a small stone.
•Chinese geomancers only find difficulty in choosing a lucky
spot for the grave of a rich man ; the poor man is soon fixed,
-as his friends can pay no fees.
Immediately past the joss-house the road skirts the creek,
outside the wall of the native city. This part of the creek is
-a great resort for the beggar tribe, and their boats with their
mat covers, under which the whole family live, are easily
■discerned.
The building on the wall of the city, immediately the wall
comes in view, is the temple of the god of war ; and this
part of the road is typically Chinese, and is worth the delay
•occasioned by the crowd. While the speed is reduced to a
walking pace, the character of the crowd may be noted —
barrow-men and cake sellers, cobblers, beancake pedlars,
.bamboo coolies, women with babies tied on their backs, all
83
Li Tsoo Dien Temple
make a motley crowd. The jinrickshaws in this locality com-
prise all the broken-down specimens forbidden in the Foreign
Settlement. The horse will probably have to be led through
the narrowest part of the road, which has buildings on both
sides. This brings us to the open space outside the West
Gate of the city ; the gate itself is not visible, but it is to the
left immediately after passing the bottle-neck on the road that
I have described. You cross a wooden bridge over the creek
and find a low, disreputable doorway through the wall. The
West Gate is the least imposing, but the busiest ; outside it,
on each side of the road, is a market where every variety of
vegetable, with fish and dark red buffalo beef, is for sale.
Good photographs of Chinese business life may be got
here.
The road crosses St. Catharine's Bridge (a wooden one) ; the
old Chinese stone bridge is close to it, and here a good
photograph may be taken of the straw-boats that jamb up the
waterway. Just after passing a part of the road with houses on
each side, in one of which wooden idols are made, we arrive
at the country, and stop about a hundred yards after the houses
cease. On the right we see a typical Chinese gate, which is
the entrance to the temple of the god of thunder, Li Tsoo Dien.
Curiously enough, next to it is the entrance to the Bridgeman
Home, a mission of the Women's Christian Union (U.S.A.),
which is named in honour of the Rev. E. C. Bridgeman, the
first American missionary in China, which he reached in the
year 1829. The ladies who conduct the mission would be
glad to show visitors over their schools.
Returning to the temple, the gateway is a very beautiful one,
and makes a splendid photograph ; the orange walls have
well-drawn pictures from Chinese mythology on them, and the
roofs are beautifully ornamented. A footpath leads to a plain
wooden gate, inside which is a flagged court. The building on
the left on entering is the shrine of Tien Jing, the warrior of
heaven. In the middle of the court is a tall incense burner ;.
printed paper, being sacred, is also burnt in it. It is not
ancient, having been cast at Woosieh (north of Soochow) in.
the twelfth year of the Emperor Kwangsu — i.e. fifteen years.
84
Li Tsoo Dien Temple
ago. The temple itself is only twenty years old, and was
built by Mr. Shu.
In the centre of the temple floor is a ferocious-looking
wooden image with bronzed face, with a pale-faced wife sitting
on his left. He might be mistaken for the god of thunder,
Idol, Loongwha Temple
but he is Mo-san, and he and his wife are dressed in em-
broidered scarlet silk robes. We must go behind this image,
where we shall find a red lacquer and gilt shrine, in the centre
of which is the figure of the tutelary deity of the temple — the
god of thunder, with his black beard ; he holds in his hands
a pen and a joo-i, an ornament which, for want of a better
85
Nien Tsung Dien
name, has been called a sceptre. It is an emblem of amity,
and is of a " shape less bent than the letter S, about eighteen
inches long'' (Davis). Its strictly religious origin is proved
by the fact of its having the lotus frequently carved on the disc
at the end of it. The joo-i carved in jade stone is a very
valued gift.
After rejoining the carriage, we pass, on the left, the Margaret
Williamson Hospital for Chinese women, built in 1885, and
rebuilt, after a fire, in 1899. It belongs to the Women's Union
Mission (U.S.A.). The lady doctors who work it live at
" Stevenside," a good foreign-built residence farther up the
road. But before reaching it, look out for a small octagonal
building on the left over a bamboo fence, which is a Baby
Tower, a receptacle for dead babies. It is not, as has sometimes
been thought, for the convenience of the practice of infanticide,
which does not seem to exist in this neighbourhood.
Outside " Stevenside " there are three roads : that to the left
leads down to the south gate of the city ; the road by which we
have come goes to Siccawei. We take the road which crosses
the wooden bridge over the creek opposite " Stevenside "■
gates.
There is a guardhouse with Chinese soldiers by the bridge,
because this is the way to the Kiangnan Arsenal. We pass
several of them en route ; the soldiers have blue coats with red
facings. At the next turn of the road on the right is an
imposing building which looks like a temple, but is not ; it is
the Guild-house of the natives of Hwuy-chau, in the province of
Ngan-hwui, west of Hangchow, in the green tea country. The
roof is very fine, the ridges being covered with mythological
figures in stone. The main building has red lacquer railings.
The building is quite new, the incense burner bearing the date
25th year of Kwangsu (i.e. it is two years old), and is noteworthy
as proving that the Chinese have not lost the art of building
and founding, as it is sometimes asserted.
The cemetery, with low gravestones, on the left after passing
this Guild-house, is an instance of native charity : it is for the
free burial of the poor, and is called the Nien Tsung Dien, or
righteous man's burial-ground. Of course the righteous man
86
Kiangnan Arsenal
is the donor, who has heaped up a great deal of merit by his
charity.
Another mile along the road brings us to the entrance
to the Kiangnan Arsenal. Permission to view it can only be
obtained by ticket from the Director-General.
The Arsenal was established in 1867 by Li Hung Chang,
who soon after the Taiping rebellion founded an arms factory
in Hongkew. This soon became too small, and led to the
erection of the vast buildings on the present site, which cover
several acres. A dry dock, 400 feet long, is used for repairing
Chinese gunboats ; one or two have even been built.
The Chinese workmen show remarkable skill in using com-
plicated and delicate modern machinery. Rifles and heavy
ordnance are turned out, equal, it is said, to those of the West ;
even disappearing guns are manufactured, and shells up to
700 lbs. weight. All the castings, turned brass work, etc.,
are made here ; there is no patent law in China, hence the
Chinese are at liberty to copy any patent ordnance or
machinery of the West. Mr. N. E. Cornish, late of Lord
Armstrong's works at Newcastle, is the foreign director.
Under Dr. John Fryer there is also a department for the
translation of standard foreign books into Chinese.
Outside the Arsenal gate is a signpost with three arms :
To Shanghai.
To Loongwha.
To Arsenal.
The road to Loongwha is to the right, and the most noticeable
feature of this part of the drive is the immense extent of the
peach orchards : as far as the eye can see it is all peach
orchard. Shanghai is very famous for a flattened variety of
this fruit, and this drive in April, when the country is a sea of
white blossom, is very beautiful.
The only noteworthy features en route are a fine funeral
pailow, and two ancient gravestones, upright shafts of carved
stone some 15 feet high. Typical Chinese farms may be noted,
and after crossing the Limestone Creek by a wooden bridge we
are in the village of Loongwha. There is a winding creek to the
87
Loongwha
Whangpoo, the approach for houseboat parties to the pagoda.
Facing us, this creek, with a stone bridge over it, makes a
good picture. Loongwha, however, is attractive for its temple
and pagoda. The former is on the east side of a great open
space, which at festival times is crammed with worshippers,
hucksters, jugglers, and all the odds and ends of both silk-
robed and ragged celestial humanity. The beggar king has
often been photographed, with his professional rags and fat
face ; he has for years been one of the features of Loongwha.
The great temple is worth a good deal of attention. It
is dedicated to the King of Heaven, and is a typical Chinese
temple, kept in good order. Connected with it is a monastery
with three hundred monks, who conduct the services. The
plan of it is simple : an oblong enclosure about 150 yards
long and 60 yards wide, with four main buildings and three
courts and smaller shrines down the west wall (on the left as
you enter), and the priests' dwellings on the right. The
Biblical student can obtain a better idea of the temple at
Jerusalem with its courts from . a temple like this than from
any Western building. The Jewish priests lived on the
premises, as we learn from 1 Kings vi. 5, " Solomon built
dwellings against the walls of the house round about, and
he made chambers round about.''
The first building is dedicated to Midoo, the coming
Buddha. He is the most popular god in China, and is
worshipped con amore. There are scrolls of Indian subjects
on the walls. To the left and right of the first court are the
Drum and Bell Towers. These are not to summon wor-
shippers, but to arouse Buddha's attention, and are fine three-
storied buildings. Similar ones are found in all Buddhist
temples in Japan. Crossing the first court, we enter the great
wooden gates of the building dedicated to Tien Waung Dien
(the god of heaven), where there is a double shrine in the
centre of the floor to Waydoo, behind whom is the god of
wealth. There are four gigantic and hideous painted figures
of wood, two on each side of the temple. These are the four
heavenly kings, Sz Tien Waung ; the two on the right have
snakes twisted round their bodies, and one on the left is
88
The Tah Ying Pau Dien
playing a lute ; the other holds an umbrella (see " Bubbling
Well Temple "). That the Chinese do in some sense acknow-
ledge heaven as supreme seems certain. Dr. Du Bose says
that the most potent force in conserving the Chinese nation so
long is " their religion," " their faith in the powers above,
controlling the destiny of the Empire and the fortune of the
people." A proverb says, " You may deceive men, but not
heaven." The emperor is the " son of heaven."
Crossing the second court, there faces us the principal
temple and largest building, the Tah Ying Pau Dien, or
temple to Buddha. In China there are three religions,
Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism, which are all mixed up;
the gods of all three, with aboriginal nature worship, are
inextricably mingled. A finely executed image of Buddha
occupies the centre, " a statue solid set, and moulded in
colossal calm."
At each side of him are the figures of the two patriarchs. The
one on the right is Kashiapa (Sanscrit, Samantabadra) : he is
the special patron of those who practise a species of ecstatic
meditation ; he was converted by seeing Buddha put the
dragon into a rice-bowl. The one on the left is Ananda
(Sanscrit, Manjuori), "the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom":
he was " the constant companion of the sage " ; he never left
Buddha's side. With a thousand secretaries he wrote down
the dharma, or law, which he had listened to so attentively
that it was indelibly impressed on his memory. Each of
these patriarchs is seated on a sacred lotus, which is supported
by an elephant, which in its turn rests on a massive and
elegantly carved pediment of red and black soap-stone.
Candles of red wax burn as usual in front of the image, and
should the visitor visit the temple between 3 and 4 p.m., he
will be able to witness a Buddhist service.
The monks are dressed in yellow robes ; their heads are
shaven, and the spots on their heads where the skin is bare
are " branded by lighted incense, which, burning on the head,
leaves an indelible impression." Those deeply initiated are
known by the number of spots. The priests do not bear the
best of reputations among the people. Should the visitor
89
The Dien Zaung Waving
be there during service, he will see the priests kneeling on
mats in front of the image. A gong of fine bronze, in the
shape of a huge bowl, is struck with a wooden pestle, where-
upon the priests commence a chant, most of which they do
not understand, knocking their heads nine times upon the
ground, first facing the image, and then the two companies
face one another. The great wooden fish, a sacred symbol, is
beaten at intervals, and the priests sometimes make a sinuous
procession round the floor in front of it. At the conclusion
the chief priest prostrates himself nine times, when all file out
in proper ecclesiastical style.
Do not attempt to walk about the temple while worship is
proceeding, for undevout as the priests appear, looking round
at the foreigners all the time, there is no reason why we should
treat them worse than we should expect them to treat our
worship. It is by inattention to these matters that foreigners
get into disrepute with the Chinese.
There is a great bell on the left side of Buddha and a drum
on the right ; these are like the drum and bell in the towers
at the entrance to the temple, to call the attention of the god
to the fact that he is about to be worshipped, not to call the
attention of worshippers, as with us. Buddha needs rousing.
Biblical students may compare this with the Old Testament
references to the deafness of the gods' of the heathen ; vide
the account of Elijah on Carmel and the priests of Baal,
i Kings xviii. 27. Elijah taunts them: " peradventure he
sleepeth, and must be awaked."
Notice that around the walls are thirty-six images — eighteen
on each side. There are the Sing Sen Dien, so-called locally ;
but they are most likely the eighteen Lohan, each one dupli-
cated. These are the eighteen immediate and most worthy
disciples of Buddha.
Crossing the third court, we come to the last temple, and it
may be remarked that while we call the whole of the mass of
buildings the temple of Loongwha, each of the buildings
within it dedicated to different gods must be called a temple
too. This last temple is the Dien Zaung Waung, the temple
of the " god of the earth.'' This idol is a small one of bronze-
90
Loong-wha Temple
coloured wood in the centre of the floor ; he too has a disciple
at each side of him, " the two thoughts engraven on the
Chinese mind are the duties of honouring the father and
mother who care for them in childhood, and of worshipping
Heaven and Earth, the great father and mother of the
Universe."
The best way to go back to the entrance gate is to walk up
to the right-hand {i.e. right on returning) or west side; this-
enables us to see three more of the subsidiary temples in this
great enclosure. The first is on the right of this last court,
close to the Dien Zaung Waung, and is dedicated to Kwanyin,
the most popular of Chinese deities. She was the daughter of
an Indian king. She insisted on entering a nunnery rather
than marry, and returned from the underworld to heal her
father, sending him her own eye and hand. Her name means
"heedful of prayers"; she is the patron of mothers, a
compound of the Venus Genetrix and Lucina of ancient
Rome. She is the " sailor's god " ; she protects in sorrow, and
the prayer to her is, " Great mercy, great pity, save from evil,
great responsive Kwanyin." She is the model of beauty ;
other gods are feared while she is loved. She is the Kwannon
of Japan (in Sans, Avalokitesvara), and has numerous meta-
morphoses, the most popular being that of the " thousand
handed Kwannon.'' Note on her right her companions,
thirty-six monks, each one differently occupied — one nursing
a child, one' holding a lion, one studying a book, etc.
Passing on, we come to another temple to the coming
Buddha, the one god in China sincerely worshipped, and
this is facing the court. In this shrine Buddha is
enclosed in a glass case, with flowers about it. The last
of the smaller temples is found up a passage on the right,
just beyond the preceding one near the exit gate. The
visitor will find at the end of the passage a court with a
gold-fish pond in the centre ; beyond it is a spirit-wall, the
function of which is to baffle spirits roaming about at night, to
prevent them finding their way into houses. The Chinese
attribute the meanest intelligence to their gods. The temple
opposite the wall is to the Lohan, and ranged round the
9i
Loong-wha Pagoda
wall are bronze-coloured images of 500 monks. This completes
our survey of this great temple.
Crossing the open space, we are in front of the great pagoda.
As far as the origin of pagodas is concerned, the opinion of
Dr. A. P. Parker, of Shanghai, will be of interest. He says :
Loongwha Pagoda
" So far as my investigations have gone, I find that the
building of pagodas in China followed the introduction of
Buddhism into the country. The Soochow History, a Chinese
book of 150 volumes, in giving accounts of the various pagodas
in and around Soochow, almost invariably states that they
were built in connection with some Buddhist temple, and it is
92
Origin of Pagodas
plainly stated that the great pagoda in the north part of
Soochow was built to hold some Buddhist relics that were
supposed to have been brought there from India. The style
of architecture is Indian, and of itself, proves them to be of
foreign origin. It is true^that in later years, or rather later
centuries, we might say, the original purpose for the erection
of pagodas has been largely lost sight of by the people, and
they are now considered more as being vitally connected with
the Feng Shui of the region where they stand, rather than as
peculiarly Buddhistic in their object. There is a black square
pagoda situated north of our Methodist premises inside the
east gate of Soochow, which, according to the Soochow
History, was built to correct the Feng Shui of the region and
assist the scholars of that part of the city in getting through
the Government examinations and securing the emoluments
coming therefrom. But it is nevertheless true that all of the
old pagodas were built originally as an expression of devotion
on the part of Buddhist devotees. For instance, the oldest
pagoda in Soochow, the one at the south gate, was built by Sun
Kuen, a famous ruler of the Wu kingdom, who flourished
about a.d. 300, in honour of his mother, who, with himself,
were devoted believers in Buddha, and this pagoda was an
expression of his faith and devotion. As to the number of
stories, I do not think there is any well-established rule,
except that I have heard that the number is always an odd
number, as 7, 9, 13, etc. The large pagoda in North Soochow
has nine stories. : There is a famous pagoda near Pekin of
thirteen stories ; and some smaller ones are built containing
seven stories. I do not remember to have seen or heard of
any pagoda less than seven or more than thirteen stories."
Since the time of the Boxer outbreak in 1900 the pagoda
has been closed. If the key can be procured from the priests
of the temple, the ascent to the top should be made. There
is a magnificent view of the country.
93
French Consulate
FRENCH SETTLEMENT
(Route I)
A WALK along the Quai de France and Quai de Keen Le
Yuen, or, to give them their usual name, the French
Bund, should be made. Starting from the bridge over the
Yang-king-pang Creek, the first noteworthy object is the signal
station on the left near the bridge, where the weather forecasts
for the China coast are signalled from the world-famous
observatory at Siccawei. Weather charts in French and
English are hung up for inspection. Contiguous to it is the
pontoon from which the tenders for the French and German
mail steamers sail. The offices are on the opposite side of
the road.
At the corner of the Rue du Consulat, overlooking the
river, is the handsome pile of the French Consulate-General.
The foundation stone of the building was laid on August 22nd,
1894, and it was opened on January 14th, 1896. The architect
was M. J. J. Chollot, the present municipal surveyor. The
architecture is of the modern colonial type, with large
94
French Bund
verandah. The front of
it faces the Rue du Con-
sulat, from which it is
separated by a good
garden. The building
at the opposite corner of
the street is a Roman
Catholic Mission, the
Procure des Missions
Etrangeres.
From this point on-
ward the French Bund
is wholly given up to
business. The offices
and godowns of the great
British shipping firm of
Butterfield & Swire (Tai-
Koo) cover a very large
area. There is no better
place to obtain an idea
of the business of
Shanghai than a walk
along this Bund. Butter-
field and Swire's steamers
line the wharf; merchan-
dise of all kinds is being
carried on bamboo poles
across the road to and
from the godown. The
weights carried by these
coolies will astonish
strangers, as well as the
expedition with which
vessels are loaded and
unloaded. It will be
noted that the absence
of docks in Shanghai
results in the river pre-
French Bund
senting a scene of far greater animation, with steamers, cargo^
boats, sampans, and craft of all kinds, than any home com-
mercial river presents. The Mersey is dull compared with the
Whangpoo.
At the end of Butterfield and Swire's premises is an open
space on the right from which the city wall is visible. There
is the water-tower in the Place du Chateau d'Eau, belonging
to the French waterworks for supplying the Settlement. The
water is drawn from the upper reaches of the Whangpoo.
The cost was about Tls. 350,000, and water was turned on
first in February, 1902.
From this point there are two roads open — to continue
along the Quai de France, with the enormous godowns of
the China Merchants Co. on the left, or turn to proceed along
the Quai de Keen Le Yuen. The latter is a very interesting
walk. The wharves are lined with the steamers of the China
Merchants Co., distinguishable by the yellow band on their
funnels. The photographer can obtain good pictures along
this quay.
We reach the limits of the Settlement at the Rue de l'Est,
where there is a police station. The native city may be
entered here by the east gate.
We may vary our return walk by proceeding up the Rue de
l'Est to the Quai des Ramparts, which borders the city wall.
The buildings on the wall and under the wall, with the creek
and crowds of Chinese, afford good pictures. We arrive again
at the Place du Chateau d'Eau, where we may return by the
French Bund, or we may continue up the Quai de Fosses to
the western end of the Settlement, at the head of the Rue du
Consulat. (See next walk.)
96
Chinese Tumblers
FRENCH SETTLEMENT
(Route II)
THE French Settlement is bisected by a long thoroughfare,
the Rue du Consulat, otherwise known as the French
Maloo.
The first street crossing it at right angles is the Rue
Montauban, with the first-class H6tel des Colonies at the
corner, with an Annexe on the opposite side of the road.
Nearer the International Settlement is the French Post Office,
a new red-brick building. Turning to the left along the same
street is the Convent School, the French Municipal School,
and St. Joseph's Church standing well back from the road with
a flagged court in front of it. This church was begun in 1859,
and opened at the Feast of the Assumption in 1862. It is
used for services both for foreigners and for Chinese Christians,
as is the case with all the Catholic churches in the settlements.
There are large numbers of pictures over the altars and round
the walls, many of them painted by the pupils at the school at
97 7
Opium-smoking Den
Siccawei. Over the high altar is a large oil painting of St.
Joseph and the Holy Child. In the chapel by the south door
is a very well executed carved scene of the Crucifixion, Mary
with the body of Jesus ; the twelve apostles are carried round
the altar.
For half a mile or thereabouts the Rue du Consulat is
lined with Chinese shops for the sale of goods of all
descriptions : the side streets are of a rather squalid, poverty-
Fsench Town Hall
stricken type. There are second-hand shops with immense
quantities of old Chinese tools, books, clothes, etc. An odd
curio may be picked up in these. In the Rue Discry is a
wood carving shop, and in the Rue de la Porte du Nord a
shop for the sale of white porcelain idols (very dear). There
is also one very large opium-smoking establishment. This
should be visited* The drug is purchased on entering ; a large
stock of pipes is kept. Upstairs one sees room after room of
opium sots, men and women in all stages of intoxication down
to absolute imbecility. One glimpse at a place like this ought
98
French Town Hall
to convince any reasonable mind that the pleas for opium
smoking are only due to self-interest or ignorance.
In the lot between . the Rue Protet and the Rue
de l'Administration stands the French Town Hall, an imposing
building in the modern colonial style, which is seen to great
advantage in the spacious ground surrounding it. As has
been said, it is a little bit of France transplanted to China.
The principal building was erected in 1864, and the side
pavilions in 1877. The first object that strikes our attention
is a bronze statue on a granite pedestal, occupying the centre
of the grounds. It is to Admiral Protet, who was killed
fighting against the Taiping rebels at Nanjao, near Soochow,
May 17th, 1862. The inscription reads as follows: —
A
I/AMIRAL PROTET
AUX
OFFICIERS
MARINES ET SOLDATS
TUES GLORI E US E M ENT
DEVANT LES REBELLES
SUR LA TERRE DE CHINA
1855—1862.
The statue is the work of Thiebaut. The whole effect of the
grounds, with their well-swept paths and Parisian lamp-posts,
the handsome facade of the Town Hall with its dome and
windows and ornamentation, is very tasteful. The double
flight of steps leading up to the main door adds greatly to
the appearance of the building. The interior is well adapted
for the purpose for which it was built. Off a long passage are
the -offices of the secretary, of the central police station, of the
electrical engineer, and other officials. There are quarters for
the non-commissioned officers in the side pavilions. To the
left of the staircase is the Fetes Hall, a very fine apartment
for public functions, with mirrors, heavy hangings, and a small
stage at one end.
On leaving, the fire station of " Le Torrent " will be
observed.
99
Fortune Tellers
In the Rue de 1' Administration are situated the electric
lighting works of the municipality. In this street, by the way,
fortune tellers may always be seen. They tell fortunes by
cards, by birds, and other ingenious methods. The
photographer will see pictures of refreshment and crockery
stalls, etc. This whole district is good ground photographically.
Crossing the bridge into the Shantung Road, he will find an
abundance of subjects — barbers at work, hawkers, scroll, ink-
slab, crockery, food sellers, etc., etc.
The only other foreign buildings in the Rue du Consulat is
the Police Station, and farther west along the Rue Palikao
is the church and premises of the Southern Methodist (U.S.A.)
Mission.
A return may be made to the Bund by the route described
next (III.), or Route IV. may be " done " from this point.
ioo
FRENCH SETTLEMENT
(Route III)
THOSE who wish to see Chinese Shanghai almost un-
adulterated by anything foreign ought to take the
walk along the Quai des Fosses and the Quai de la Breche,
that run along the city moat. They are reached by turning
along any street to the left as you go up the Rue du Consulat.
Innumerable characteristic photographs may be taken. Owing
to the crowded state of the thoroughfare, jinrickshaws are
tediously slow ; walking is best. Things to be noted are
numerous. The water in the moat is of the filthiest descrip-
tion, yet the people wash their rice in it, and cook with it, and
live. The Chinese have evidently had for ages an empirical
knowledge of the scientific fact that prolonged boiling kills
bacteria, otherwise there would have been no Chinese left.
Their eating cooked food only has been their salvation.
Beggars in their boats seem quite comfortable, even when left
stranded by the tide on the awful black mud.
The space between the moat walk and the city wall is
occupied by shanties in every stage of senile decrepitude,
piles of earthenware, Soochow kongs, and other merchandise.
There is a footpath along which droves of black pigs are driven
by the aid of bamboo poles, which are liberally applied to
their unwilling bacon ! "Cruelty to animals" is a conception
that has not yet entered the Celestial head.
The space between the road and the creek is not wasted.
Here stalls are erected; cheap clothes in all shades of blue,
new and second-hand, look ridiculous enough with bamboos
stuck through arms and legs. There are stalls for copper-
ware, kettles, chafing-dishes, bowls, pans, pewter-ware stalls
with candlesticks to hold red candles on altars, pewter storks
and figures, snuff-boxes, and innumerable odds and ends.
The accumulated fag-ends of the whole Settlement find their
way to the second-hand dealers, who spread their wares on
the ground. You may pick up a few blue snuff-bottles for
The City Moat
a few cents. These dealers exemplify the Chinese principle
that nothing should be wasted. If a customer cannot afford
five cents he may afford five cash. It is always worth while
to look for curios along this road. The shops along the
side of the road opposite the creek are much given to watches
Women going to Worship
The first one has paper sycee in her hand
and clocks, jade-stone ornaments, pewter-ware, copper goods,
and brasses. In the part of the road between the points
where the Rue Petit and Rue de l'Administration run into
it very good brasses may be purchased. Do not pay the
price first named, nor believe that every incense-burner
" b'long Ming," as the ingenuous dealer declares. The China-
102
North Gate
man is an obliging creature, and having observed that the
"foreign devil" wants brasses of the Ming dynasty, he has
promptly supplied them in unlimited quantities.
The entrances to the New North Gate (opposite the Rue
Montauban) and to the North Gate (opposite to the Rue
Porte du Nord) are very interesting— always crowded, always
North Gate of Native City
dirty, always littered up with lepers and with beggars adver-
tising their self-made sores, always sloppy with the water spilt
by the water-carriers, a wild jostle of coolies, silk-arrayed
gentlemen, sedan-chairs, hobbling women, melancholy dogs,
and all the flotsam and jetsam of a Chinese crowd. The
photographer and seeker after the picturesque [errs greatly if
he misses these city gates.
103
FRENCH SETTLEMENT
(Route IV)
THE recent extension of the Settlement west of the
Defence Creek, along which runs the Quai de l'Ouest,
presents features of interest. It is reached from the Rue du
Consulat, or along the Thibet Road from the Nanking Road.
The old cemetery is situated in this district. It may be reached
from the Thibet Road. Cross the bridge over the Defence
Creek at the corner of the Recreation Ground, and proceed
along the Rue du Cimetiere. Either go straight on and turn
to the right, or go up the continuation of the Rue du Consulat
and take the first to the left. This cemetery is beautifully
laid out; being old, the trees and shrubs are well grown.
There is peacefulness and beauty in this last resting-place for
the foreigners of Shanghai. The remains of all nationalities
lie together here. This cemetery has recently been extended.
There is a neat chapel.
At the corner of the road, the Rue Kou Chan, opposite the
cemetery gate, is a Chinese temple with orange-tinted walls.
It has a wonderfully sweet and mellow bell ; the sound of it
adds greatly to the solemnity of funerals conducted in the
neighbouring cemetery. This temple is the Foo Li Zen Yuen
Nu. It is Buddhist. The priests are from the sacred island
of Pootu, in the Chusan Archipelago. The most striking
feature in it is a gigantic Buddha : the face measures 36 feet
from the chin to the top of the head. It is of wood, gilded,
and reminds one of the Daibutsu at Kamakura in Japan.
The temple is entered by the back door, a little farther up
the road.
Beyond the cemetery, and to the south and west of it, the
French Council has laid out a large number of new roads,
which are being very rapidly lined with foreign houses.
104
North Gate of Native City from the Inside
THE COUNTRY (Route V)
THE French Council has shown great enterprise in opening
new roads into the country. These roads, connected
with the splendid roads of the International Settlement, afford
facilities for walking, cycling, riding, and driving that Shanghai
has long needed.
The great Avenue de Paul Brunat starts at the corner of
the old cemetery and runs right out to the Siccawei Road,
near Nanyang College, whence a circuit may be made to
the Bubbling Well Road by turning to the right, and by the
French Siccawei Road on turning to the left on reaching the
head of the road. The first cross-road on the Avenue de Paul
Brunat leads to the Mohawk Road and the Race Club. It is
the Route des Sceurs. The next branch on the right leaves
the Avenue de Paul Brunat obliquely, running up to the
Bubbling Well Road. The Route de Big Grave runs across
to the French Siccawei Road. The site of the camp occupied
by the French troops from 1900- 1903 is on the fifth road to
the left after leaving the old cemetery.
io 5
EXCURSIONS IN CHINESE QUARTERS
CHINESE BUND AND THE CHINESE
SUBURB OF NANTAO
(Route I)
A GREAT mistake is made by any traveller or resident
who does not visit this district. It is a rich field for any
one who takes interest in "things Chinese." The way to it is
right along the French Bund (Quai de France). Do not turn
down to the left opposite the French water-tower, but go
straight on, keeping the huge long " godowns " of the China
Merchants on the left. This brings us to the south limit of
the French settlement, near a red-brick police station. Here
you may get on the Chinese Bund ; but if you have any wish to
see native life, continue in the same straight line along the
main street. The 'rickshaws must be left here, if you have come
in one, and a new one, licensed by the Chinese authorities,
engaged. It is best, however, to walk. A Chinese guide
should always be taken for an excursion like this. It is
impossible to give directions as to finding places in such a
district that would be of any use to a foreigner.
This street, a continuation of the Quai de France, is a very
busy one, always crowded : every house some kind of shop.
Those who have no intention of visiting the native city will
get a better idea of it from this suburb of Nantao than
from any Chinese street in the International Settlement.
It is as well here to look in at the busy east gate of the city.
About a quarter of a mile up the street there is a building
on the right that is apparently a temple, but is not. It is the
guild-house of the wood merchants from Chuchou, in the
province of Chekiang, near the Fokien border. Go up a
narrow and dirty lane to the left of the building and enter by
a narrow door. This is the Dzau Dzu Way way. There are
two open courts, a theatre, and temple, the god worshipped
being the Nyang-Nyang boussa (god), with the ferocious-looking
1 06
Nantao
Chei-Aye and Wong Tu Aye at the right and left hands.
Here the timber merchants meet to discuss common matters
of interest, and settle disputes.
Proceeding farther along the street, we pass under an arch-
way in a whitewashed wall. At the other side of it is a square
built in on all sides by high walls. A fair and small market
are held here. The photographer can obtain very Chinesy
subjects — the public storyteller at work, peep-shows, etc., etc.
View in Nantao
The huge wall on the left is the back of a guild-house, which
we shall visit later from the Bund.
Farther along the street, away back among squalid tenements,
like " a jewel in a swine's snout," is one of the most magnificent
guild-houses in Shanghai, in many respects far finer and more
tasteful in all its appointments than the better-known Bankers'
Guild-house on the North Honan Road. It is the Mosang Way
Kway, which you must ask your Chinese iguide to find. It
is on the right, back from the road, about a quarter of a
mile past the white arch. The Mosang Way Quay is
107
Tung-ka-doo Cathedral
another timber merchants' guild. Entrance is secured from
a door up a passage. The temple and theatre are resplendent
with gold and red. The shrine of the Nyang-Nyang boussa
is more cunningly carved than any I have seen : halberds,
storks, incense-burners are of the best pewter ; on the walls are
bosses, reliefs of mythological subjects done first in wet clay,
as are the figures over so many doorways. They are exqui-
sitely executed. The walls are in lozenge and chequered pattern,
like the tops of Ningpo tables. Finer examples of work in
Chinese style are not to be found anywhere.
The next object of interest is the cathedral of Tung-ka-doo.
Continue along the same street until you strike a fairly broad
Chinese thoroughfare. Turn to the right, where will be found
the great church, the largest and finest that the Roman
Catholic Church possesses in Shanghai. The land was given
by the Taotai as compensation for a building in the city which
the Catholics alleged had belonged to them before they were
expelled from China. It was built by Bishop de Besco : the
foundation-stone was laid in 1849 > ft was opened in 1853.
It is in the classic style, that of the Roman basilica. It is a
large edifice ; the walls within are white. There are nave and
side aisles, but no transepts. It is dedicated to St. Francis
Xavier, of whom there is a painting over the high altar.
There are numerous good paintings in the church, copies of
works by old masters. There is a fine organ in the gallery.
The number of converts connected with this church is very
large.
From this point we may return to the long street that we
have traversed ever since leaving the French Quai de France,
and continue along it to the Kiangnan Arsenal, passing a
useless Chinese camp on the way. Near the arsenal are the
new waterworks for the supply of the native city. Shanghai is
the first Chinese city to have a water supply in foreign style.
From the Kiangnan Arsenal we may walk or 'rickshaw all the
way back by the Chinese Bund. If we have no wish, however,
to go farther after leaving Tung-ka-doo Cathedral, we may go
right down the street on which the church stands to the
Chinese Bund, and so reach the French Settlement.
108
Chinese Bund
The Chinese Bund was made in 1894, after a great fire
which destroyed five hundred ramshackle old Chinese houses.
The Bund is policed and kept in order by the Chinese
authorities. It is suitable for carriages and 'rickshaws. There
are plenty of interesting things to be seen. First, the enormous
Tower in Swatow Guild-House, Nantao
crowds of boats on the river, on which there is, as always in
great Chinese cities, a huge permanent floating population.
Beggar-boats and fishing-boats are closely packed. Near the
centre of the stream is the junk anchorage, tier on tier of them —
plain Shanghai junks with brown oiled wood ; Foochow junks
with high, gaily, and elaborately painted sterns, often laden
with immense masses of " Foochow poles " slung at each side,
109
Chinese Bund
making it a nautical miracle how they steer; Ningpo junks,
usually with black hulls and green and red painting on the
upper parts. The Bund swarms with coolies. Here are
important Chinese hongs, timber yards, bamboo oil, and
pottery stores. One gains respect for the volume of purely
native traffic. The doorways, gates, offices of these hongs are
often very good. Endless photographs may be made.
On the Bund, beyond the water-tower, is a splendid guild-
house. Its immense white wall cannot be missed. A knock
Chinese Bund— Women Washing
at the wooden gates will usually bring the keeper ; it is the
Jau Way Way Kway, a Cantonese guild-house. There is a
fine, clean, flagged court ; the main building, containing the
usual theatre, has a fine front. Two large flower-vases are
carved in high relief on the walls. Passing under the theatre,
we find another court, with the temple at the west end, and in
the north-west corner a five-storied pagoda-like building, the
Tien Ih Koh. The whole pile makes as good a photograph
of Chinese architecture as any one need wish : the Temple
no
Native City
is the ideal of Chinese beauty. The shrine of Ti Wi is excel-
lently carved ; the hanging lamps are specially noteworthy.
Owing to the size of the entrance court, this guild-house
affords the photographer an opportunity of getting a good
picture of the facade of a characteristically Chinese buildings
Another walk may be taken in Nantao, along the outside of
the native city wall in the upper part of Nantao. Turn up by
the French water-tower, or up any of the streets beyond it.
Here those interested may see Chinese life — all kinds of
industries, stables, even a pony market, with gardens and
creeks.
The circuit of the city walls may be made, and the south
gate reached, whence return may be made by the west gate
and Rue du Consulat. This is a long walk ; no one ought to
attempt this without a Chinese guide or a foreign friend who
knows the way. Crede experto.
in
Sampan Woman
SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY
(Route II)
BEFORE making a visit to the native city, the first thing
to do is to procure a guide. This is indispensable, and
no map would enable a raw visitor to find his way about its
tortuous alleys and narrow streets. The hotels will find guides
for their guests. Those who have acquaintances among the
business houses of Shanghai might ask for one of the Chinese
staff. Native professional guides are generally to be found at
the end of the Rue Mcntauban on the lookout for clients.
They speak sufficient English, and are reliable. It is best to
make a bargain with them first, as always in China.
Some visitors and even residents never visit the city, on
account of the dreadful smells they have heard about. But it
is not so bad as all that. No doubt the proximity of the
Foreign Settlements tends to drain life, enterprise, and business
Native City
out of it, but it has still
a population of 152,249
living in 27,843 houses,
according to the latest
native census made in
the year 1900, and many
interesting and beautiful
trades are carried on.
The odours are some-
times not good, but they
are not nearly so bad or
numerous as is usually
imagined, and ought
not to daunt a traveller
with any enterprise in
him.
The city forms the
southern boundary of
the French Settlement.
It is almost circular in
form ; the walls, of black
brick, are three miles
in circumference, with
3,600 loopholes and 20
towers or guard-houses
for defence. Some of
these are now temples.
A ditch or fosse runs
round the walls, 30 feet
in width, the original
width being 60 feet.
The best way to see
the city is to enter by
the New North Gate
(Sing Poh Mun), at the
south end of the Rue
Montauban. Note the
scene crossing the
"3
New North Gate
wooden bridge across the
ditch. The bridge is
always crowded, with water-
carriers, sedans, bamboo-
coolies, and general pas-
sengers. Ramshackle huts
cling to the walls ; stores
of Chinese earthenware
line the creek. Note the
beggars with self-made
sores and crippled limbs ;
these are professionals,
under a beggar-king. Shop-
keepers may compound
with him for immunity at
so much a month. Inside
the outer gate is what was
called in mediaeval times
the " inner bailey " for de-
fensive purposes — a square
enclosure, at the southern
side of which is the actual
New North Gate through
the wall. We have now
left the twentieth century,
and gone back 4,000 years
in time. The scene in-
side the walls is no doubt
very much like the scene
inside a gate of Jerusalem
in David's time. All is of
the old, old world, which
must appeal to any visitor
interested in Biblical times.
Directly the gate is
passed there is a pictur-
esque square where sedan
chairs are manufactured.
"4
Native City
An old guard-house has been converted into a temple; it is
found immediately on the right. It is the Tsung Woo Day.
There is an image of Waydoo (see " Drive to Bubbling Well")
downstairs ; upstairs is an oblong apartment with an image of
the Emperor Ye Fung of this dynasty, who was on the throne
City Gardens — Dragon Gate
when the temple was erected. On his left is a shrine to
Kwangti (god of war), on his right to Midoo, and the San
Quay, the Three Pure Ones, a Taoist trinity. A long, straight
street leads from the east side of this square towards the
centre of the city. This is the best street in the city. It is
devoted to ivory, sandalwood, and fan shops. Very beautiful
articles may be seen in process of manufacture — ivory gods,
US
"Woo Sing Ding
chop-sticks, chess-men, umbrella handles, etc., etc. There are
shops for brass ware, Ningpo pewter, silks, silk tassels,
porcelain. In summer-time, when the narrow street is canopied
with blue cloth, it has the effect of a bazaar. Note that the
streets are just wide enough for two sedan chairs to pass;
they are paved with long flags of Ningpo stone laid longitu-
dinally. China had wealth and enterprise when such pave-
ments were laid down.
A turn to the left at the end of this street along a
creek side, then across a bridge to the right, leads to
the famous tea-house, the Woo Sirig Ding, the City Temple
and smaller shrines, along with the two characteristically
Chinese gardens^ the East and West Gardens, which 1 are open
free on the ist and 15th of the Chinese month ; at other times
on payment of a small fee. The story is that the whole of
these buildings and gardens were originally a palace built by
an ambitious and wealthy mandarin, in the reign of Kiei
Tsing, a.d. 1537. He was ambitious of having a palace as
good as the emperor's. The scheme, however, came to the
ears of the emperor, who violently disapproved, and the
mandarin, to save himself, made his palace over to the city,
which used it as temple, tea-house, and gardens for the benefit
of the public.
It will be sufficient to visit one of the gardens. The quaint
rock-work, winding paths, arbours, curiously shaped doors and
gateways, show how much can be made of a small space. Tea
may be had, and excellent studies for the photographer are
on every hand in this whole group of buildings.
Next visit the tea-house, the Woo Sing Ding. It is a
picturesque building on stone pillars in a pool, approached by
zigzag bridges. Straight ones would be unlucky, as the
Chinese believe that evil spirits travel along straight lines and
are baffled by crooked ones. Hence curved roofs on Chinese
houses, and the reason for one objection by Chinese to
railroads and their lengths of straight line. Surrounding the
pool are numerous picturesque tea-houses. The photographer
will be in his element. The open ground round the pool is
a fine study of Chinese life — dentists, doctors, toy-sellers,
116
The "Willow-Pattern Tea-House
cooks, jugglers are all busy. Near the pool are three bird-
markets, with really fine shows of birds from the south. This
tea-house is supposed to be the original of the tea-house on
"willow-pattern" plates. Nowhere can a more thoroughly
Chinese view be obtained than about this pool with the
broken outlines of its gabled tea-houses reflected in the water.
The Willow-Pattern Tea-House
The , Vung Tsang Dien should next be visited ; it is
dedicated to the god of scholars, called locally, Vung Tsang.
His name is usually written Wenchang when romanised. He
is the god of literature ; " a constellation," part of Ursa Major,
is named after him; "the wheel of transmigration turned
seventeen times the fate of Wenchang. His most distinguished
117
The Vung Tsang- Dien
metempsychosis was a snake, which revenged the wrongs done
to his ancestors. He then met with Buddha, who forgave his
sins, allowed him to throw off the serpent's coil and return as
a man. He is one of a triad with Confucius and the god of
war. It is said that Wenchang prevents the vicious, even
In the Native City
though learned, from obtaining an academic degree " (Du
Bose).
We are now close to the City Temple, in a maze of narrow,
crowded streets, lined with shops, in which scrolls, brushes,
compasses, spectacles, pottery, gambling implements, opium
pipes, compasses, wooden scissors, birds, etc., etc., may be
purchased. If we enter it by the Great East Gate, we pass a
118
The Zung Wong Miao
small shrine to So Waung (the god of snakes), or the snake-king
with his attendants. " If a man finds a snake on his premises,
he repairs to the snake-god's temple ; also rules out its tracks
with manure. At the feast in the 5 th moon the people mark
all little children's foreheads with the character for ' king '
and put yellow paint on their legs as a charm against snakes
or centipedes" (Du Bose).
We may, however, enter by the Temple of the Three
Emperors, Sang Vong, or Sing Sen Dien. Sometimes they
are called the Three Primordial Sovereigns, three Kings of
Heaven, of Earth, of Men ; the length of their aggregate
reigns was 18,000 years. Around the walls are sixty images —
twenty-six on one side, thirty-four on the other. Each one of
the sixty represents a year of the Chinese cycle, which is sixty
years, not the endless time that Tennyson, in a well-known
couplet, suggests. This temple is widely popular. On festival
days it is hard to get round it, owing to the crowds of wor-
shippers burning incense before the images, while the heat
from the great furnace compels a rapid retreat if an attempt
is made to pass it. Paper shoes representing silver sycee
are burnt in it.
We now enter the great City Temple, the Zung Wong
Miao, built in 1537 under the circumstances to which I have
alluded. There is a large central court, with an ancient
incense burner and a very artistic detached shrine with upbent
roof and good carving about it, which makes an excellent
photographic subject. In the afternoon this court is a fair :
one cannot but think of the buyers and sellers in the temple
at Jerusalem (St. Matthew xxi. 12, 13). There are refreshment
stalls, toy vendors, incense shops, and jugglers, who, by the
way, are well worth seeing; their production of bowls, filled
with water to the brim, from the stone floor is a marvellous
performance, equal to the Hindoos' trick of the growing of
the mango tree.
The city god is in a building at the east end of the great
central court. His name means king of the city of which
he is the tutelary god. " Each of the 1,600 cities of China
has its god, and the 100,000 market towns each claim a
119
The Confucian Temple
god. He has two assistants to help him to judge lawsuits
in the other world." At festivals this temple is crowded ; the
image is shrouded in curtains, so is not easy to see ; it is also
surrounded by high wooden rails.
There is a small court behind the great one, reached by
Shrine, City Temple
passing under the stage. Through this court is the nearest
way to the next place of interest, the Confucian Temple. The
streets en route are quiet and fairly clean, much given to
clothing shops. On the way we pass the Kwangti Miao, the
temple of the god of war. It used to be east of the City
Temple, but was removed to its present site when the Catholics
returned to China, and claimed the old temple as theirs by
The Confucian Temple
right of occupation before the expulsion of the Jesuits at the
end of the eighteenth century. Kwangti is a most popular
god. " He is worshipped twice a month in 1,600 state
temples." The Guilds (see Bankers) often chose him as
their patron. " He is said to have appeared in the heavens
in 1856 to encourage the Imperial troops against the Tai-
pings. He was a general who figured in the time of the
Three Kingdoms, just after the commencement of our era "
View in Native City
(Du Bose). The ground in front of this temple is untidy, but
the interior is clean enough, and does not appear to be much
frequented, except by officials.
Not far away, near the west gate, from which it is best
reached by those who wish to see it only, is the Confucian
temple, in a large walled area, bounded by a yellow wall,
above which the high carved roofs of the various shrines
present a very picturesque spectacle. There is a three-storied
pagoda at one corner outside the enclosure, built some five
years ago. There is plenty of open space, with pond and
121
The Confucian Temple
spirit wall in front of it. A good photograph may be taken
from this point. The great wooden gates are usually closed.
Inside them is a court of rough grass. Entrance is obtained
by the smaller gate to the right. Crossing two open courts,
we see the Ming Loong Dong, the shrine where the scholars
from the contiguous school for the training of scholars worship.
The gate-keeper, whom it is best to engage to go round with
you, will then open a large pair of folding-doors. These
admit us into the great court in front of the Kong-foo-tsoo
Miao, the Confucian temple itself, which is called the Tien
Zung Dien. Along the walls of the court are sheds, which
contain tablets to the 3,000 disciples of Confucius ; the
larger ones are to his seventy superior disciples.
Inside the temple itself there is the severest simplicity. It
is just a large, open-roofed hall, the timbers being decorated
with paintings. The tablet of Confucius occupies the place of
honour ; in front of it is a table and altar, with two plain
metal candlesticks. There is no image. At each side of the
hall are two subsidiary shrines. All else is bare.
Externally there is no attempt to deify the great sage of
China, who, born as long ago as 551 B.C., holds so tremendous
a sway over a quarter of the human race. His grave in
Shantung is still the greatest pilgrim resort on earth. There
is much dispute as to whether the Chinese actually worship
Confucius. The early Jesuit missionaries did not believe it,
nor does Dr. Martin, in a recent letter to the North China
Daily News. The Pope, however, decided against the
Jesuits, and so lost China to the Catholic Church ; the mass
of Protestant missionaries also agree with the Pope that they
do. It certainly looks as if they did. There are about 1,600
temples similar to this in the empire. Sacrifices are offered
to him, scholars bow before his tablet, schoolboys worship
him, the emperor worships him. The great annual sacrifice
is offered in the night of the eleventh day of the fourth moon
of the Chinese year in spring, the anniversary of his death.
His birthday is celebrated in the autumn. This is not the
place to give an account of Confucianism. It is sufficient to
say that while not denying the existence of Shang-Ti, the
The Confucian Temple
aboriginal Chinese god of Heaven, whom the emperor still
worships once a year, Confucius ignored him, sanctioned
ancestor worship, and elaborated a system of morals which
still rules the nation.
Behind the chief temple is one to the father and mother of
Confucius.
Opposite the front of the enclosure are three Confucian
institutions — an orphanage and two refuges, one for old men
and one for old women.
Next to these is a handsome, well-kept building, the Vae
Zee Kung, or the Emperor's Temple. Once a year the officials
proceed to this temple to do obeisance before the emperor's
tablet. It is hard to distinguish it from worship. I have not
been able to gain access to this building. Near it is the most
famous peach orchard in the city. On our way back we pass
the city lieutenant's yamen. The two giants painted on the
doors are the door gods, who were two ministers of state in
the Tang Dynasty (ending a.d. 936). Their names are Way
Tsu Kong and Ching Soh Pao.
There is no need to visit the smaller temples in the city.
The city may also be entered by the east gate from the
suburb of Nantao. The warehouses and shops of the cotton
or piece goods merchants are in this quarter, also a street
wholly given up to the manufacture of idols in metal, wood,
and plaster.
123
WALK ROUND THE WALL OF THE
NATIVE CITY
(Route III)
THIS walk offers an admirable opportunity of seeing China
as it is, and as it has been for many ages. It is also a
novelty for any one from the West to walk on a city wall at all.
The circuit of the walls is between three and four miles, and
can be done in one hour by going straight on, but two hours
Slightly Congested
Creek leading to the native city
and a half, ought to be allowed for the excursion, if the
temples en route are to be visited.
The walls are not so very old. In a.d. 1554 a famous
man named Koo Zong Li sent a memorial letter to the
emperor, suggesting that walls should be built to protect the
city from Japanese pirates. The emperor consented, and Fo,
prefect of Sungkiang, built the walls. They had originally
six gates, and a tower over the east gate only. In 1558 Loo
124
City Wall
Kung Zung built towers over other gates, which were called
Vah Keun Dai, Tsz Sung Dai, Tsung Wa Dai (now turned
into temples). There is a moat round the walls, which are of
black brick, supported by a thick embankment of earth on the
inside. It is really on this earth embankment that you walk,
not on the wall itself, which is furnished with portholes 3,600
in number. We may ascend it by any one of the gates, but the
New North Gate (Sing Poh Mun) is the most convenient, at
the end of Rue Montauban. Having passed through the outer
and inner gates, turn to the right along a dirty lane, climb up
the slope of earth, and you are on the walls.
The general view of any native city from a height is gener-
ally disappointing, presenting, as it does, an expanse of black
tiles on the one-storied buildings. Domestic buildings do not
run to height in China, but there are some good dwellings of the
better sort abutting on the wall ; so that altogether the photo-
grapher can get a few picturesque corners. The view of the
busy streets of the French Settlement outside the walls is worth
attention. One gets the impression that the whole population
of China is always on the streets.
After a quarter of a mile's walk we come to the Da Ching,
once a guard-house or castle, now a temple. It is a very
beautiful and picturesque building, and makes a splendid
photograph from any point of view. Gardens and open spaces
surround it ; at one corner there is a pool. From that side,
with the pool in the foreground, it makes a very beautiful
picture. To visit itj you must go down from the wall, and
enter by side door. The building has four stories on one
side and two on the upper side, where it abuts on the wall.
On entering and passing through the porter's living-room,
there is, at the end of a narrow passage, a ferocious-looking
image of a black-faced warrior, General Chow, of the Chow
Dynasty, about 1100 B.C. In the hall beyond this passage is
a shrine containing the figure of Tsang Ti Sz, who, I am
informed, is still, living as a famous Taoist priest. It is a
case of apotheosis. To his right is a shrine to the king of
snakes (see account of visit to City Temple).
The main temple area is on the second storey, to which
"5
The Da Ching
there is an entrance from the wall. Kwangti (god of war)
occupies the principal place with his two attendants, Tz Tsang
and Kway Bing. On the right is the image of the god of
medicine, Li Zung Yang, one of the " Eight Immortals."
" He was a graduate at Pekin and a mandarin, but retired
to the mountains to search for immortality." On the left
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Stone Carving on Roofs in City Gardens
Three hundred years old
of the god of war is Zung Wong, the tutelary deity of the
city. There is a kong or tub-shaped incense burner, presented
to the temple by the native staff of the Municipality of the
Foreign Settlement. On the left of the entrance is the groom
and charger of the god of war ; on the right his boatmen and
boat. In the third storey is a large room, with a small shrine
and pretty stained-glass windows. On the top floor — very
126
The Ta Vung Leu
unusual — are three gilt figures of the Taoist trinity, the Three
Pure Ones ; on the left another trinity, Confucius in the centre,
with two of the Eight Immortals, one of whom is Han Chung
Li, who revives the dead with a fan. Sometimes he has a peach
{symbol of immortality) in his hand. This trinity is much
worshipped by scholars.
Leaving this temple, we continue along the wall. The space
inside becomes less inhabited, and is given up to numerous
market gardens. Walled cities always had to have open spaces
in them, to grow as much food as possible in times of siege.
Notice in one of these gardens huge stone figures — horses,
men, turtles, lions, of the same type as the Ming tombs at
Nanking. From this point to the south gate the country
outside and inside the walls is very open. Near the west
gate the roofs of the Confucian Temple (see description of city,
page 120) are discernible. Just before reaching the south
gate, outside which is a flourishing mission of the American
Southern Presbyterians, down on the level inside the walls,
is the Tsi Ying An, a temple to the goddess of mercy. A
little beyond the new south gate, again down on the level
ground inside the wall, necessitating a detour to reach it, is
the Dien Zung, the temple of the god of earth. From the
south to the east gate the space inside the walls again
becomes densely inhabited, on account of its proximity to
the river. Outside the walls is the suburb of Nantao. Its
dirty, crowded, wooden houses line the city ditch facing the
walls, but yield excellent photographs. The great east gate is
first reached, then the east gate leading out to the Chinese Bund.
Between the east and north gates is the Ta Vung Leu, an
old tower or castle converted into a temple. It is a most
picturesque object for the photographer or painter. It is near
the city water-tower. Part of the temple spans the path along
the city wall. Along the passage are mural paintings of the
Buddhist Hades. The temple covers a large part of the
embankment and a large area inside the wall. The greater
part of this pile of temple buildings down to the level is called
the Dien Ih Tien Mun, the First Gate of Heaven. In it are
shrines to the kitchen god, who "knows intimately the faults
127
The Ta Vung Leu
of the family, and takes account of their sins. He is wor-
shipped at the new and full moon " (Du Bose). " His image
is in every home, and the crackers and bombs are fired off on
the twenty-fourth day of the twelfth moon, just about Chinese
New Year's Day, when he ascends to heaven to make his
report on the ' goings on ' of the family during the year."
In the City Gardens— Chinese Architecture
Sacred elephant on highest roof
a good "send-off," he
so that he may present
has his lips
a favourable
The kitchen god's name is
In order to give him
smeared with sugar,
report to the Pearly Emperor.
Tsau Tsung.
We now reach the north gate again, from which we descend
to the French Settlement and the Rue Montauban.
128
POOTUNG
THE east side of the river opposite Shanghai is called
Pootung. It is the name given to the whole peninsula
between the Whangpoo and the sea. It is reached by sampan
from any of the pontoons (fare each way, 5 cents). There is
not much for the casual visitor to see. There is only one
terrace of dwelling-houses and the Pootung Hotel. The
Sampan
whole of the foreshore for five miles from Tunkadoo to a point
below the harbour limits is taken up with the wharves, go-
downs, oil tanks, and various commercial establishments. The
International Cotton Mill occupies a prominent place opposite
the Settlement. In front of the mill is the Customs Signal
Station, from which the arrival of all the shipping is signalled.
If the vessel be from the south of the Yangtsze, the signal flags
are on the south side of the mast ; if from the north, on the
129 9
Signal Station
north side. Two guns are fired when a steamer or tender with
mails enters the lower harbour limit.
Mail Steamers from Europe or America are signalled by the
national ensign over the company's flag, and a red pennant
with three white crosses at the masthead or yardarm.
Men-of-War. — The national ensign over letter C.
Local Steamers. — The company's flag or letter D over the
number (Marryat's Code).
Behind the cotton mill is the American Cigarette Factory.
At the point where the river takes a sharp turn to the east is the
Irrigation Wheel
shipbuilding and engineering yard of Farnham, Boyd & Co. If
the visitor can obtain permission to visit these works, let him by
all means do so. They are splendidly equipped with machinery.
Nothing can be more interesting than to see the Chinese
mechanics at work. They seem quite as skilful as engineers
at home. On the west side of Boyd's is an old burial-ground
for foreigners. The Seamen's Church has recently been pulled
down.
130
Pootung
Should any one wish for a walk down the bank of the
Whangpoo, he may land at the jetty by the Pootung Hotel,
continue past the hotel into the villages, then turn to the left
at the back of Boyd's works. But it is hardly worth it, except
that a photographer might go for the sake of obtaining a
picture of the Chinese method of fishing by means of a large
square drop-net.
The country behind presents few attractions. It is best
Dragon Boat
visited by houseboats up the creeks running into the country
from the Whangpoo. The native population is largely Roman
Catholic. There is a very fine church in the country east of
Tunkadoo.
131
EXCURSION TO WOOSUNG
THOSE who have a little time to spare and who wish to
be able to boast that they have had a railway ride in
China, and who, at the same time, wish to make some little
acquaintance with the country round Shanghai, might take a
railway journey to Woosung.
The station is at the far end of the North Honan Road, and
the way to it is either by the Soochow Creek side to the North
Honan Road, then straight on ; or up North Szechuen Road
to the Range Road, then turn to the left up Range Road
till the head of the North Honan Road is reached.
The Woosung Railway has had a chequered history. It was
opened in 1876 as far as Chiangwan, the second station on
the present line, and a few Shanghai men were the owners,
Mr. G. J. Morrison being the moving spirit and engineer.
But despite its popularity with the Chinese, the masses of
whom always welcome any obvious improvement, it could not
withstand the jealousy of hidebound officialdom. The viceroy
objected that his consent had not been obtained, and the line
was closed, and it is a blot on the memory of Sir Thos. Wade
that he effected its sale to the Chinese at the end of the year.
Thus in October, 1876, the Chinese paid Tls. 285,000 com-
pensation for it, and proceeded at once to pull it up, after the
last train had been run, an operation which was watched
sorrowfully by the people as it made its last journey. They
had no sympathy with the buttoned and satin-clad fools who
ruled them. The unfortunate engine' and carriages were dis-
membered and the parts carried over to Formosa, then in the
possession of the Chinese. There they remained until 1883,
when this old Woosung Railway plant was brought back to
Shanghai. The present line was opened in September, 1898,
officialism not venturing to interfere with it. It is very popular
with the Chinese. The carriages are good, clean, and com-
fortable, and are fitted with sliding panels of blue glass to
shade the eyes during the glare of the summer. A time-
table will be found in the local papers.
J32
Woosung 1 Railway
Starting from Shanghai, we arrive at the Rifle Range Station
in a few minutes ; close by is the new Rifle Range, owned by
the Municipal Council, for the use of the volunteers. The oid
range occupied the site of Range Road until six or seven
years ago. Ample provision is made for all kinds of rifle
practice, at ranges from ioo to 800 yards. Adjoining is the
prospected new Recreation Ground, which is the brilliant con-
ception of the trustees of the Recreation Fund. Seeing the
congested state of the present Recreation Ground on the
Bubbling Well Road, they wrote the Municipal Council on
May 23rd, 1901, stating that they were in treaty for 100 mow
(about 16 acres) of land for purposes of recreation. The
Council at once entered into the scheme, with the splendid
result that with Tls. 40,000 borrowed from the ever-flowing
Recreation Fund, and a sum of about Tls. 17,000 contributed
by the Council, an area of 258 mow (about 45 acres) between
the new Rifle Range and the railway has been secured to the
public for eyer.
An agreement has just been made with Mr. J. W. Stuckey
to prepare plans for the laying of it out. " Its exact distance
from the Garden Bridge, via the North Szechuen and North
Honan Roads, is 25 miles, or one mile farther than the present
Recreation Ground on the Bubbling Well Road" (M. C.
Report, 1901).
The next station is Chiangwan, an unwalled town in which
some good photographs may be taken. It has a ruined pailow,
a small pagoda, and good creek scenes. The line runs mostly
through paddy fields until Woosung Pier Station is reached.
At the Pier Station there is the Woosung Hotel, where excel-
lent tiffins and dinners are served. It is best, if possible, to
write the day before and order a meal, if you intend spending
the day there. You may enjoy a ride on a Chinese wheel-
barrow to the village. If you are, however, just spending the
afternoon, you may do one of two things. You may go to the
old terminus by the creek and alight there. A good road has
been made to the creek, over which is an excellent new wooden
bridge, and the village on the other side is a typical Chinese
village, with narrow streets, rough paving, many smells, and
133
Woosung
many dogs. You may, however, avoid the village, and continue
along the Whangpoo side by a splendid new Bund.
When Woosung was made a treaty port, it was anticipated
that a new settlement would spring up, and a good deal of the
heavy traffic would pass through it. The Bund was made, and
the land laid out in squares, all ready for the building of offices
and houses. So far this has not been realised ; but Woosung is
improved, and the walk along the river is very fine. There is
Foochow Junk with Cargo of Poles lashed to Side
always a fleet of junks anchored there, among them Chinese
war-junks, which may be compared to the foreign war-ships
lying at anchor.
The other plan is to go on to the new terminus near the
lighthouse, which, with out-buildings and farm, makes a
picturesque photograph.
If you have time, by all means walk on to the old walled city
of Paosan, or, as the local pronunciation has it, Pausa.
The road along the shore of the Yangtsze is good as far as the
Chinese fort, a huge enclosure with mud walls, which existed
134
Paosan
at the time of the conquest of Shanghai. It was around this
fort and between it and Woosung that the Chinese had painted
conical mud-heaps white, to make them resemble tents ; this
was a brilliant idea of the Chinese military genius to make the
British think a vast army was encamped there. But Sir Hugh
Gough was not to be scared by painted mud. On June 16th,
1842, he landed and took Woosung, and silenced the 134 guns
in the fort.
From the fort ascend to the top of the embankment erected
by the Chinese to keep out the flood waters of the Yangtsze.
The walk is a very pleasant one, and in about another mile
you see the old city of Paosan. At one time it must have
been on the river, for an old water-gate is visible. You may
enter by the east gate and ramble about the old city ; there is
a good gatehouse in the centre of it, also good creek scenes
and very large ruined pailows. It is historically interesting.
After having taken Woosung, Sir Hugh Gough advanced
on Paosan, " to which he had heard that the governor of
the province had fled, with a large number of troops.'' He
had ordered Major-General Schoedde to move to the rear
of the town, and to cut off the retreat of the Chinese, and
when he arrived he found the major-general in possession,
and the Chinese troops flying, with the civil population, in all
directions. The siege of Paosan, therefore, is not one of the
great sieges of history.
The return to Woosung must be made by the same route.
Jinrickshaws may be taken at Woosung for Paosan ; but
as they are the "discards " of Shanghai, somewhat infirm, and,
like the minstrel, " have seen a better day," they do not afford
very comfortable riding ; on a hot day, however, they are
better than nothing.
It is a very good plan to take one's bicycle down to Woosung
by train.
. Those who enjoy walking would find it interesting to walk
by the Whangpoo side to Woosung, along Broadway past
the Point.
!35
Shanghai Junks
HOUSEBOAT EXCURSIONS
VISITORS to Shanghai who are not pressed for time
ought by all means to make a trip up country in a
houseboat. It is a most restful and enjoyable holiday, and
enables the visitor to see a very great deal of Chinese life and
scenery. The innumerable creeks of this province, often so
very beautiful, walled cities, market towns, villages, bridges,
methods of irrigation and agriculture, all afford ceaseless
interest.
There are two classes of houseboat, foreign and native,
the former an adaptation of the latter. The native boat
is the cheaper, the foreign boat infinitely more comfort-
able. A foreign houseboat has one central cabin, with bunks
at the sides for two ; there is often also another small cabin,
and most of the boats are very comfortably fitted up. The
hire of a foreign boat is about Tls. 5 or Tls. 6 a day ; of a native
boat, $2'5o or $3; one or two of the hotels have boats, and
some private owners will let theirs for hire. The best way to
136
Houseboat Trip
procure a boat is to advertise, stating the number of days the
boat will be required.
As to preparations for a trip, the boat, wherever hired, will
have its own crew, under a captain or loadah ; the traveller
will need a boy and cook. All provisions have to be
taken, as only chicken, eggs, fish, and a few vegetables and
fruits can be procured up country. A good plan is to con-
tract with the cook to do the catering at a fixed sum a day.
He can do it well on $i or $1*50 a head: this includes
ordinary plain cooking ; wines and mineral waters are extra.
A supply of drinking-water must be taken, also coal for cook-
ing and for the stove in winter. The cost per day, including
hire of boat, will be about $12 as a minimum; a houseboat
trip is therefore no dearer than staying at a hotel. With a
native boat the cost is less. This is not a guide to the
country round Shanghai that may be visited by houseboats,
but a few notes are appended to give a stranger some idea of
the places that may be visited.
!37
HOW TO SEE SOMETHING OF THE
INTERIOR OF CHINA FROM SHANGHAI
HOUSEBOAT ITINERARY
By H. Du Flon Hutchison
3, 5, 7, io, 15, 18, and 20 Days' Trips
I
THREE DAYS' TRIP
First Day. Through Naziang to Kading.
Second Day. Explore Kading, a city ruined by Taipings;
extensive walls, fine Confucian temple, endless ruins
of temples, wharves, bunding, pailows, dwellings.
Third Day. Return.
II
FIVE DAYS' TRIP
First Day. Everything on board houseboat and leave
Shanghai in tow of boat train.
Second Day. Evening, arrive at Hangchow Foreign Settle-
ment and anchor.
Third Day. All day at Hangchow. Hire a native covered
boat, and, taking lunch with you, go and see the West
Lake or Si Wu, cross by another boat to Lin Yin Sz,
and walk up to the temple and to see the rock sculptures.
Fourth Day. Visit the city of Hangchow, see the medicine
shops and the live deer in them, also the Mahomedan
mosque and the city temple ; come back, or go via the
upper water and the north gate, passing over the mud
slide or lock between the upper and lower waters.
Leave by tow for Shanghai, arriving there next day.
Fifth Day. Arrive at Shanghai.
138
Houseboat Trips
111
FIVE DAYS' TRIP
To see the Hangchow Bore in Spring or Autumn
First Day. Tow to Hangchow.
Second Day. At Samun, leave the tow and yuloh or sail to
Haining.
Third Day. See bore at Haining.
Fourth Day. Back to Haining and tow.
Fifth Day. Shanghai, arrive.
IV
SEVEN DAYS' TRIP
Shanghai, Hangchow, Soochow, and Back
First to Fourth Days as II., but leave Hangchow by Soochow
boat train.
Fifth Day. Arrive Soochow. See two old pagodas, twin
pagodas, beamless temple, Tiger Hill pagoda, City
Temple, yamen, gardens, etc. Before leaving Shanghai
buy " Beautiful Soo," by Dr. Du Bose.
Sixth Day. Donkey or chair ride through city ; can visit
cotton mill by presenting card.
Seventh Day. Leave about 5 p.m. by boat train for
Shanghai, arriving early morning eighth day.
V
SEVEN DAYS' TRIP
Shanghai, Hangchow, Soochow, Ta Hoo (Great Lake), Soochow,
and Back
First Day to Fifth. Same as IV. After arriving at
Soochow, go straight on to Modo (Motu) and Sz-ke and
on to the Ta Hoo.
Sixth Day. Spend morning on the Ta Hoo. Grand
scenery on the lake, which is 40 by 40 miles ; its shores
139
Houseboat Trips
mountainous. Leave Ta Hoo midday, arrive Soochovv
in evening or morning of seventh day.
Seventh Day may be spent in Soochow, Leave same even-
ing for Shanghai.
N.B. — If Soochow has already been visited, the traveller
may go straight on to the Ta Hoo, arriving in the
afternoon of the second day. This will give him four
days on the Ta Hoo. Those who must be back
inside seven days must watch the weather and wind,
or they might be delayed. In any case, they may
sail across to the beautiful island of Si Dung Ding, or
coast down the Dung Dung Ding peninsula (on the
south of Motu).
VI
TEN DAYS' TRIP
Shanghai, Hangchow, Soochow, Kwangfoo, Ta Hoo (Great
Lake), Soochow, and back
First and Second Days as II.
Third Day Hangchow, Siwu (West Lake), Lin-yin-sz.
Fourth Day. Hangchow city, North Gate, etc.
Fifth Day. Leave for Soochow.
Sixth Day. Arrive Soochow and proceed to Kwangfoo.
Seventh Day. Arrive Kwangfoo (temple, pagoda, gardens);
go on to Tahoo.
Eighth Day. Return to Soochow.
Ninth and Tenth Days. Soochow.
Tenth Day. Leave for Shanghai.
VII
TEN DAYS' TRIP
Hangchow, Soochow, Ta Hoo
First and Second Days as II.
Third and Fourth Days. Hangchow. Leave fourth day for
Soochow.
140
Houseboat Trips
Fifth Day. Soochow. Go to Sz-ke on the Ta Hoo.
Sixth Day. Cross Ta Hoo to Kwangfoo.
Seventh Day. Kwangfoo.
Eighth Day. Back to Soochow.
Ninth and Tenth Days. Soochow, and leave in evening of
tenth day for Shanghai.
VIII
TEN DAYS' TRIP
Shanghai, Hangchow, Soochow, Ta Hoo, Wusieh, and back
First to Fifth Days as VII.
Sixth and Seventh Days. Sail up Ta Hoo from Sz-ke to
Wusieh. Coast scenery very fine.
Eighth and Ninth Days. Wusieh ; great silk centre.
Ninth Day. Leave Wusieh by boat train for Soochow.
Tenth Day. Soochow, and leave in evening for Shanghai.
IX
SEVENTEEN OR EIGHTEEN DAYS' TRIP
Soochow, Wusieh, Chinkiang
First to Ninth Days as VIII.
Tenth Day. Leave Wusieh for Chinkiang.
Eleventh or Twelfth Day. Arrive Chinkiang.
Thirteenth Day. Chinkiang.
Fourteenth Day. Start for Wusieh.
Fifteenth Day. Wusieh boat train for Soochow.
Sixteenth Day. Soochow.
Seventeenth Day. Soochow boat train to Shanghai.
X
FOURTEEN OR FIFTEEN DAYS' TRIP
Shanghai, Hangchow, Soochow, Kwangfoo, Ta Hoo, Wusieh,
and back
First Day. Leave for Hangchow.
Second Day. Arrive at Hangchow.
141
Houseboat Trips
Third, Fourth and Fifth Days. Hangchow and neighbourhood.
Sixth Day. Tow to Soochow.
Seventh and Eighth Days. Soochow. and neighbourhood.
Ninth Day. To Kwangfoo.
Tenth and Eleventh Days. Cross Tahoo from Kwangfoo to
Wusieh.
Twelfth Day. Wusieh.
Thirteenth Day. Wusieh, and leave for Shanghai via
Soochow.
Fifteenth Day. Arrive Shanghai.
XI
NINETEEN OR TWENTY DAYS' TRIP
Shanghai, Hangchow, Soochow, Kwangfoo, Wusieh, Chinkiang
and back
First to Eleventh Day. As in X. up to twelfth day, then to
Chinkiang : yuloh and sail.
Thirteenth and Fourteenth Days. Chinkiang ; arrive fourteenth
day.
Fifteenth Day. Chinkiang.
Sixteenth and Seventeenth Days. Back to Wusieh.
Eighteenth Day. Wusieh to Soochow.
Nineteenth Day. Soochow to Shanghai.
XII
WEEK-END TRIP TO THE HILLS
Shanghai to Feng-wan-shan
Friday. Leave Shanghai ; yuloh or sail via Jessfield.
Saturday Night. Feng-wan-shan.
Sunday Night. Leave Feng-wan-shan.
Monday. Arrive Shanghai vid Siccawei.
142
SECTION III
INSTITUTIONS AND ASSOCIATIONS
Churches
PARTICULARS as to the principal churches will be
found in other places in this work. The following are
the lists of services : —
I. —PROTESTANT
Church of the Holy Trinity (The Cathedral)
Sundays: n a.m. and 6 p.m. Sunday School, 3 p.m.
Week Days : Morning at 8 ; Afternoon at 3.
Holy Communion at 8 a.m., also at mid-day service
monthly.
High festivals, mid-day service ; Wednesdays, 6 p.m.
During Lent, Morning Prayer at 11 a.m. Saints' Days as
announced.
Chaplain — Rev. A. T. Walker, B.A.
Union Church, Soochoui Road
Sundays : 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. Sunday School, 3 p.m.
Lord's Supper, first Sunday in the month.
Prayer Meeting, Wednesdays, 6 p.m.
Christian Endeavour Society : Fridays, 6 pm.
Literary and Social Guild : fortnightly, Wednesdays.
Boys' Brigade : Tuesdays, 6.15 p.m.
Singing Class : Wednesdays, 6 p.m.
Minister — Rev. C. E. Darwent, M.A.
143
Chupches
Church of Our Saviour, Broadway
Sundays : n a.m. and 6 p.m.
High Festivals : Communion, 8 a.m.
Minister — Rev. F. James.
Baptist Church, Masonic Hall
Sundays : n a.m. and 6 p.m. Sunday School, 3 p.m.
Wednesdays : 6 p.m.
Deutsche Evangelische Kirche (German Evangelical Church),
Whangpoo Road
Sundays : 11 a.m.
Pastor— Rev. F. Boie.
Seamen's Mission, Broadway
Sundays : 11 a.m. and 6 p.m.
Chaplain — Rev. H. Newcomb.
II.— ROMAN CATHOLIC
St. Joseph's Church, Rue Montauban, French Settlement
Sundays at 6, 7, 8, and 10 a.m., and 4 p.m.
Daily : 6 and 7.30 a.m.
Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Nanzing Road, Hongkew
Masses at 6, 7.30, and 10 a.m. Benediction at 4 p.m.
Week days : Masses at 6.30 and 8 a.m. on the first Friday of
every month ; and 6 p.m., Benediction of the Blessed
Sacrament.
III.— OTHERS
Mahommedan Mosque, Chekiang Road
Jewish Synagogue, 18, Peking Road
144
Missions in Shanghai
Shanghai is the greatest missionary centre in China, repre-
sentatives of all the leading Protestant Societies being found
here, as well as Roman Catholics. It is also the centre of a
vast religious propaganda, which by circulating the Scriptures,
by tracts and books published in Chinese on every subject
under the sun, gives the people the results of Western know-
ledge in their own tongue. A Chinaman can obtain books on
religion, arithmetic, Roman history, horticulture, geometry —
indeed, on any subject. There is no place in the world
that means so much for the future of China as Shanghai.
No one ought to leave without having seen, if possible, at least
one of the numerous missions. There are about two thousand
church members in the Protestant communions of Shanghai,
some thousand adherents, and about one hundred missionaries,
whose work is very varied — evangelistic and educational. They
are always pleased to show visitors their work. Those who
wish to see work in the native city would find the missionaries
very willing to take visitors with them to their chapels.
It is quite impossible to give a full history and detailed
account of all the missions in Shanghai : the following
particulars must serve. I have taken them from " A Short
Report of Protestant Mission Work in Shanghai " for 1898,
which appeared in the North China Herald ^of March 13th, 1899.
Progress has been made since then, but the figures are
sufficiently accurate, allowing for the interruption of mission
work by the Boxer outbreak in 1900, and I have supplemented
them with other information.
1. London Missionary Society
The headquarters of this mission are in Shantung Road,
slightly south of the Foochow Road crossing.
Dr. Medhurst and Dr. Lockhart were the first Protestant
missionaries in Shanghai, arriving from Chusan in 1843. Dr.
Medhurst was a brilliant man and scholar, and the father of
Sir Walter Medhurst, late H.B.M. Consul. Dr. Lockhart
145 10
Missions
founded the Shantung Road hospital in the mission com-
pound in 1846, which is now leased to a committee.
Dr. Muirhead landed in 1847, and baptised 1, 60c persons
during his fifty-three years in Shanghai.
The mission work consists of preaching to some 2,000
people, and holding 15 services each week. There are 400
members, besides 15 out-station members, and the 7 day schools
are attended by 200 scholars ; a new College has been
erected in Hongkew.
2. American Presbyterian Mission
The centre of this mission, also its press, warehouse,
and store, are in the Peking Road, while the printing works
are now near the Rifle Range. Extensive work is carried on
at the south gate of the city. The mission commenced
work in 1848, the first house was built at the south gate in
1858, the Press in 1874, and the Lowrie Memorial Chapel in
the Peking Road in 1896.
There are 3 native churches with some 285 members, by
whom the pastors' salaries are paid. There are 2 boarding-
schools in Shanghai, and 2 in the country, also 9 day schools
in Shanghai ; all these having a total of 300 pupils. The
Press printed 45,000,000 pages in 1898.
3. Church Missionary Society
The headquarters are in the Range Road, and one of
its street chapels, the one situated about half-way up the
Nanking Road, is very conspicuous and readily visited. There
is daily preaching, and there are four enquirers' classes. The
Anglo-Chinese School in the Range Road has about 100 pupils,
and is self-supporting. There are 2 girls' and 2 boys' schools,
also Gleaners' Unions for men and women.
4. Southern Methodist (U.S.A.) Board of Foreign Missions
The premises of this mission are in the Quinsan Road
with a large establishment in the Thibet Road under the
146
Missions
Southern Methodist Women's Board of Missions. The feature
of this mission is the splendid Anglo-Chinese College in the
Quinsan Road, with 180 students. There are 13 day schools
with 384 pupils, 2 girls' boarding-schools, 4 Epworth Leagues
with 180 members, and the Y.M.C.A. and Anti-Opium
League.
The College was opened in 1883, and the work begun in
1849. In Thibet Road, at the McTyere Home, the mission
has a first-class boarding-school, with a church, the spire of
which is visible from the Recreation Ground, and it is often
mistaken for a church intended for the use of foreigners.
5. Women's Union Mission
Bridgman Home and Stevenside, on the French Siccawei
Road, are the homes of the ladies of this mission.
The Margaret Williamson Hospital, for women only, belongs
to this mission, and in 1898, 36,482 prescriptions were dis-
pensed there. There is a boarding-school at the Bridgman
Home, with 30 boarders ; there are also four day schools and
a church with 80 members.
6. Foreign Christian Mission
It has churches in Hanbury Road and at Yangtszepoo, and
at several out-stations. The work, which comprises evangelistic,
scholastic, and medical branches, extends as far as Tsung-ming
island. There are four day schools with 70 pupils.
7. Seventh Day Baptist Mission
The headquarters are at St. Catherine's Bridge, beyond the
west gate. There are 2 boarding-schools with 35 pupils, and
4 day schools with 36 pupils. Medical work is carried on, and
there are 48 church members.
8. American Southern Baptist Mission
The missionaries reside at the new Rifle Range. The
mission was founded in 1847 by the well-known Dr. Yates,
147
Missions
author of a grammar of the Shanghai dialect, and has two
churches, one at the old north gate and the other at the
Rifle^Butts, and a membership of n8. The boys' school has
35 pupils and the girls' 30.
9. American Protestant Episcopal Mission
This mission occupies a beautiful site at Jessfield (see account
of Bubbling Well Road).
St. John's College is a very complete residential scholastic
establishment. It has a large staff of teachers and over
200 students. There are 7 churches with a membership
of over 500 ; there is also a girls' school, an orphanage, and
a training home for women.
Medical work is a prominent feature of this mission, carried
on at St. Luke's Hospital, Hongkew. In 1898, in the men's
wards, 20,323 cases were treated, 525 in hospital and 19,798
outside and in the dispensary; also 117 major and 592 minor
surgical operations were performed.
The Church of the Saviour, Hongkew, belongs to this
mission.
10. China Inland Mission
This mission has its extensive headquarters in Woosung
Road, but does not carry on mission work in Shanghai.
11. Roman Catholic Missions
Institution of the Holy Family, 1 1, Woochang Road.
Institution of St. Joseph, 24, Rue Montauban.
Procure des Lazaristes, Rue Laguerre.
Procure des Missions Beiges, 5, Minghong Road.
Procure des Missions Etrangeres, Quai de France.
Spanish Augustinian Procuration, 5, Yangtszepoo Road.
Siccawei Observatory, orphanage, schools, printing and pub-
lishing house, etc.
N.B. — All these missions have a large number of preaching
stations in the settlements and city.
148
Schools
The following societies also have their headquarters for
China in Shanghai : —
American Bible Society, 14, Kiukiang Road.
British and Foreign Bible Society, 13, Kiukiang Road.
China Tract Society, Depository, t 8, Peking Road.
Society for the Diffusion of Christian and General Knowledge
among the Chinese, Boone Road. The publications of
this society have immense influence over the ruling
classes and literati of the Empire. The reading of
its publications led to the issue of the famous reform
edicts of the emperor in 1898.
12. Missionary (Protestant) Printing and Publishing
Establishments
Presbyterian (U.S.A.), 18, Peking Road.
Methodist (U.S.A.), 10, Woosung Road.
This is only the briefest summary of the work being done
in Shanghai for the Chinese. In addition there are organisa-
tions of all kinds connected with the above societies, and the
translation work done by the missionaries is enormous.
An enquiry into the facts as to missions, and a visit to the
stations so easily accessible as the L.M.S. in Shantung Road,
the Methodist (U.S.A.) in Quinsan Road and Thibet Road, and
of the Episcopalians at Jessfield, ought to convince the most
prejudiced anti-missionary visitor that a mighty work is being
done.
Schools
The Shanghai Public School. — This is the only public school
in Shanghai for foreign children. It was founded in 1886.
The school is situate in Hongkew, at the corner of the
Chapoo and Boone Roads. It belongs to the Municipal
Council, which appoints a committee of five ratepayers to
manage it. The school is open to all classes of children.
There are three departments — boys', girls', and infants' or
kindergarten. The course of study is based on the curriculum
149
Schools
for the Cambridge local examinations. A high school has
recently been formed for more advanced work. Drawing,
painting, singing, and needlework are well taught ; French
and Chinese are extra. Information as to the fees may be
obtained from the secretary or from the headmaster. There
are various scholarships and prizes. The school has about two
hundred pupils. There is an athletic club, library, and
museum, to which the headmaster will always be glad to receive
contributions.
The £cole Municipale is in the Rue Montauban, in the French
Settlement.
The Deutsche Schule (German School) has a fine new build-
ing next to the German Church in Whangpoo Road. Apply
to the German pastor for terms. It is mainly for German
children, but a certain proportion of children of other
nationalities are admitted.
Shanghai also possesses a few good private schools.
The Thomas Hanbury School^in Boone Road, owes its exist-
ence to the munificence of Sir Thomas Hanbury. It was
established for the education of Eurasian children, and has
done an incalculable amount of good. It is supported by fees
and subscriptions. There are boarders and day pupils.
Schools for Chinese
Schools for the education of the Chinese in Western know-
ledge and English are multiplying rapidly. A visit to one or
more of these would be of great interest.
There are the various missionary colleges, of which the
chief are : —
St. John's College, Jessfield.
The Anglo-Chinese College in Quinsan Road.
The Anglo-Chinese School in Range Road.
The London Mission College in Li Hongkew.
Other flourishing schools for Chinese, due to foreign and
Chinese enterprise, are : — •
The Ellis Kadoorie School in Park Road. — This school was
founded in 1902 by Mr. Ellis Kadoorie, a merchant of
Freemasonry
Hongkohg and Shanghai, for the education of Chinese. It is
in Park Road (first turn to the right after passing the Horse
Bazaar on Bubbling Well Road).
The Cantonese School in the Ningpo Road (a new Chinese
building on the north side of the road).
The headmasters would be pleased to show visitors over the
schools.
A Chinese public school will shortly be erected on the
North Szechuen Road Extension, near the Rifle Range. This
school is the outcome of the idea that, as the Chinese pay so
large a portion of the taxes, they have a right to have some
educational advantages provided for them. The Council has
provided for the site, and wealthy Chinese, such as Chun Fai
Ting and the late Tong Kidson, and others, are responsible
for a donation of Tls. 30,000 for the building.
Freemasonry
The Masonic body is a very large and influential one in
Shanghai. According to Gratton's " Freemasonry in Shanghai
and North China," there was a " warrant granted to the
Northern Lodge of China, No. 570, E.C.," on December 27th,
1849.
The " first English Mark Masters' Lodge " was held on
December 15th, 1854. From the middle of the Sixties
Masonry made rapid advances. That little was done during
the Fifties was due to the disturbed state of the country.
The first meetings were held in a house of Chinese con-
struction in Church Road (now Kiangse Road), opposite the
present Cathedral compound, and next in a small bungalow in
Foochow Road.
The first lodge-room was in Nanking Road, and is first
mentioned in 1855. In 1856 this was sold, and the old
second Masonic Hall was erected in Canton Road. This,
becoming inconveniently small, was sold, and the present third
Masonic Hall on the Bund was planned. The, foundation-
stone was laid with full Masonic ceremonies on July 3rd, 1865,
and the building was dedicated on September 27th, 1867. (For
Theatres
further details as to the hall, see description of walk on the
Bund.)
The Masonic Charity Fund is an important institution
in Shanghai ; administering relief, maintaining bursaries or
scholarships in the public school, and so on. Full particulars
may be found in "Gratton."
The Masonic body has taken a prominent part in the most
striking public functions in Shanghai, such as the Diamond
Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
The " North China Desk Hong List" contains full lists of
the lodges and members.
Theatres and Places of Entertainment
The Lyceum Theatre is situated in the Museum Road, with
its stage entrance on the Yuen-ming-yuen Road. It is close
to H.B.M.'s Consulate, and is most easily approached from
the Soochow Road. This theatre has been newly fitted up
and decorated, and is in every way suitable for its purpose. It
is the only theatre in the East high enough for the stage scenery
to be lifted up to the flies ; in all others it has to be rolled up.
Very early in the history of the settlement attempts at
dramatic art were made by the Amateur Dramatic Club,
which, as early as 1850, performed in a godown (warehouse).
Unfortunately, the records of this society (the A.D.C.) were
burnt in 1850, so information about early times is scanty.
However, in 1867 a wooden theatre was built in Minghong
Road. This theatre had a short career, being burnt to the
ground on March 2nd, 187 1.
We learn what the next step was from a petition of the
trustees of the Lyceum Theatre in H.B.M.'s Supreme Court,
January 14th, 1903. The trustees ask for relief in the matter
of the trust. They state that "On May 20th, 1872, a public
meeting of foreign ratepayers was held, and a scheme was
approved for the raising of a fund in order to purchase a plot
of ground in a convenient part of the Foreign Settlement, and
to erect thereon a substantial insurable brick theatre."
The scheme provided the necessary funds by debentures.
i5 2
Public Gardens
The money was easily raised, and the present theatre was
opened the following year. The public of Shanghai is the
ultimate owner, and may now be said to possess it. As
Shanghai has increased in foreign population, the number of
professional companies visiting the settlement has increased.
The building is occupied by them practically from February
to May.
Extract from " The History of tlie New Lyceum Theatre, 1874
to 1898," by Geo. R. Corner (in MS.)
" The wooden theatre in the Minghong Road having been
burnt on March 2nd, 187 1, the then Committee of the Amateur
Dramatic Club issued a prospectus for the building of a new
theatre to be called ' The New Lyceum Theatre,' for which
they proceeded to raise the sum of Tls. 21,675 by debentures,
bearing interest at 8 per cent. ; and Tls. 3,750, on preference
debentures at 5 per cent, interest. This was duly carried
out, and the new theatre was opened on January 27th, 1874."
The Lyceum Theatre is the only building in Shanghai really
devoted to the entertainment of foreigners.
Occasionally travelling companies of entertainers occupy the
Masonic Hall.
A list of Chinese theatres will be found on page xy.
Public Parks and Gardens
Public Gardens
(Near the Garden Bridge, with greenhouses on the opposite side of
the road)
A short account of the history of the Gardens will be found
in the section on the Bund. The very utmost use has been
made of the small space : the lawns, shrubberies, flower-beds,
and paths are well laid out. There are two fountains — one with
railings around it, beautiful with roses in May; the other,
at the south end of the gardens, with two terra-cotta figures
forming the body of the fountain.
153
Recreation Grounds
Travellers who visit Shanghai in early spring should look
out for the giant magnolias in bloom ; they will also see a few
flowers rare in Europe, and some not to be seen there at all.
The Town Band plays in the band-stand at 5 p.m. in the early
summer; at 9 p.m. in July, August, and early September, when
Shanghai comes out to enjoy the cool south breeze and listen to
the music. The view from the Garden Point is always pleasant
and interesting : river craft of all kinds can be studied and
photographed.
The Recreation Ground
This is what the name implies — a piece of ground wholly
given up to recreation. It will be found on the left, one mile
up the Nanking Road.
The footpaths are well kept, and the grass, the finest stretch
of sward in the Far East, is open to the pedestrian. As large
a variety of games may be seen here being played at the same
time as anywhere in the world — cricket, tennis, golf, baseball,
etc., etc.
Five o'clock in the summer and Saturday afternoons are the
best times to visit. The public may use the inner mud course
for riding, but not the outer grass course. Carriages may be
driven in as far as the pavilions.
New Recreation Ground
A new park or recreation ground has been acquired adjacent
to the Rifle Range. It may be reached by continuing along
the North Honan Road. The Rifle Butts Railway Station
adjoins it. It is at present being laid out from the designs of
Mr. J. W. Stuckey. About 258 mow of land will be included
in the park, an invaluable addition to the open spaces of
Shanghai.
The Recreation Fund Trustees have again been the prime
movers in the matter, lending the Council Tls. 40,000. The
Council has entered most heartily into the scheme. The
park is 2 1 miles from the Garden Bridge, vid North Honan
Road.
154
Shanghai Library
Hongkew Park
Between Boone Road and Quinsan Roads. This is a mere
playground for children.
The Chinese Gardens
(8 mow in extent on the Soochow Road) were opened in
1890 for the benefit of the Chinese of the settlement.
Chinese Gardens
Chang Su Ho's Gardens, on the Bubbling Well Road, are
very popular. There is a handsome hall (Arcadia) and
Assembly Room in foreign style. Refreshments may be
obtained. In the summer there are frequent displays of
Chinese fireworks, which are well worth seeing. Under new
management all kinds of attractions are now being provided,
making these gardens a Shanghai " Earl's Court." There is
a water chute, cycling track, etc.
Yu Yuen Gardens. — On the Cross Road joining the Bubbling
Well and Sinza Roads. Admission. 10 cents. These gardens
are beautifully arranged in Chinese style, with rock-work, lily-
ponds, kiosks, curious shaped doors and gateways. There is
a large central hall, where refreshments are served in foreign
and Chinese fashion. Excellent photographs and paintings
may be made in these gardens.
Shanghai Library
The Shanghai Library was founded in the year 1849 in a
very unpretentious way. One of the daily papers of March 23rd,
1893, says that "A list was sent round asking for support
towards the formation of a Book Club, and on this slender
foundation has been built up the fine library that exists.''
It was in this way that institutions which have become
of great importance to the Settlement were started, by half a
dozen people meeting together on the Bund, in the Club, or at
the dinner table.
The Library has always been under most efficient manage-
rs
Chinese Festivals
ment. The selection of books is extremely good. Among its
12,000 volumes are all standard books of reference, and all
new notable books of travels and science, with novels. It is
doubtful whether any place in the world has so large a number
of books in its public library per head of the population
as Shanghai. Supposing Shanghai has now 4,000 English-
speaking people ; this gives 3 volumes per head. No city
in the West has anything like that number. There can hardly
be 4,000,000 books in the public libraries of London, including
the British Museum — that gives two-thirds of a volume per
head. I name this because it gives the lie to the ridiculous
taunt that people in the Treaty Ports are a set of brainless
pleasure-seekers.
In 1892 a change was made in the working of the Library.
It was thrown open as a Reading Room to the public from
9 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, the Municipal Council making a grant
of Tls. t,ooo per annum. A large collection of the best
magazines and reviews is kept.
The Library is now housed in the Town Hall, Nanking
Road.
The subscription is $16 per annum.
Open, 9 to 12 noon and 4 to 7 p.m., for exchange of books ;
Saturdays, 9 to 1 p.m. As a Free Public Reading Room it is
open daily, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. ; Sundays, 10 to 1 p.m. and
2 to 6 p.m.
Chinese Festivals
An opportunity is afforded the visitor to Shanghai of having
an occasional glimpse of religious festivals. The photo-
grapher, if he happens to be in the place at the time and is
on the look out, has a good chance of excellent pictures.
I give only the festivals that, as far as my observation goes,
are obvious to the most casual visitor.
Chinese New Year. — Generally in February, so that as a
rule the Chinese months (moons) are one behind ours, our
second month (February) being the Chinese first moon. Note
the streets at China's New Year's Eve. Business very brisk ;
temples, theatres, eating-houses thronged ; shops full of New
156
Chinese Festivals
Year's decorations, paper flowers, etc., etc. On the morning of
New Year's Day the streets are very quiet ; Chinese coolies dis-
tribute visiting cards ; presents being carried by coolies, who
have them on red trays. In the afternoon the Chinese turn
out in their most gorgeous attire, and the Nanking Road is well
worth a visit.
The Feast of Lanterns. — First moon, fifteenth day ; a fixed
feast. Visit the Ningpo Joss-house, in the French Settlement ;
it is gorgeous with lanterns.
The Feast of Tsing Ming. — A movable feast, from the
end of March to the middle of April. One of the three
principal festivals of China. "Celebrated on the 106th
day after the shortest day, the fifteenth after the vernal
equinox ; it may be called the Feast of the Dead. Immense
numbers of people worship and sacrifice at the graves of
their ancestors. Originally an act of remembrance of the
dead ; it is now worship, and an attempt to conciliate their
spirits. The Chinese, if away from home, endeavour to return
to keep this feast. The custom of eating fruit and cakes at the
graves is the result of incorporating the Hao-chih, or cold
food festival, which fell on the previous day, with Tsing
Ming " (North China Daily News).
The country is well worth a visit on this day; there are
people at every grave, each of which has a stick with white
paper streamers on it. There is a procession from the north
to the west gate of the city, or vice versa, in the afternoon
of the day ; the road to Loongwha Temple is crowded.
Photographers must be careful. The Chinese at such times
do not like their processions to be photographed. The
Taotai generally issues a request to foreigners not to drive
to Loongwha on that day. In spite of that, some do.
The Dai Wong Festival. — This is in the middle of April.
A great procession of two or three thousand persons starts
from the Dai Wong Temple on the Sinza Road about 9 a.m.
This is very interesting. The image of Dai Wong, immense
paper dragons, genii's banners, etc., are borne along; paper
flowers, food, fruits, are carried as offerings. The par-
ticipators in the procession are often gorgeously dressed in
157
Chinese Festivals
silks. A noteworthy feature is a group of the eight fattest
men procurable. They are dressed in splendid crimson silks,
and are intended to represent Midoo. By way of gaining
favour with the god, numbers of men suspend heavy cymbals,
incense-burners, bells, and other objects, by hooks through the
skin of the arm, and even from the eyelids. Dai Wong is
the Dragon King, and is the god of rain and the guardian
of the farmers.
The Dragon Boat Festival. — Always on the fifth day of the
fifth moon (about the beginning of June). This festival
originated in 450 B.C. A faithful minister of state, being
dismissed by his prince, in spite of his faithfulness, threw
himself into a small river in Hunan. Afraid that the fishes
would devour his body, the people put out in boats to recover
it, each man straining every nerve to find it. They carried
with them packages of rice to throw into the water for the defunct
statesman to eat. Since then, on the anniversary of the hero's
death, dragon-boats race on the rivers of China, it is to be
presumed, seeking his body. The dragon-boats are splendidly
decorated with silk hangings, banners, lamps, embroideries,
and present a beautiful picture. Some are 60 ft. long. They
are long and narrow, and are propelled by paddles. The boats
come down the Soochow Creek, and usually pass the Public
Gardens between 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Business is almost
entirely suspended on this day.
The last festival that gives any very evident signs of its
existence is the Chung-Chin-Chieh, or Mid-Autumn Festival,
in the eighth moon, fifteenth day (in August). This corre-
sponds to our Harvest Festival : it occurs at the full moon.
Altars covered with fruits may be seen in large numbers
of the Chinese shops, on verandahs, and out in the open.
Moon-cakes are extensively eaten at this festival. Packets of
them in red paper may be seen in all the native confectioners'
shops.
A sufficiently complete list of other festivals will be found in
Kelly & Walsh's Diary, with exact dates of the movable
feasts, which mostly mark changes in the seasons, such as
" first frost." These are wonderfully accurate. I have known
1S8
Volunteer Corps
the "first frost" to occur on the exact day given in the calendar.
A complete list of the Chinese festivals to the innumerable
gods and demi-gods of China will shortly be published by the
Society for the Diffusion of Christian and General Knowledge.
Shanghai Volunteers
Never having had any garrison of foreign troops stationed
here, except during the earliest days of conquest, during the
Taiping Rebellion and the two years following the Boxer out-
break, 1900-2, Shanghai has been compelled to rely upon its
own citizens for its defence. A Volunteer Corps was formed
very early in the history of the settlement, the volunteers
taking an honourable part in the battle of Muddy Flat.
They have been called out on several occasions, such as the
various riots over the Ningpo Joss-house, during the wheel-
barrow riot, and last, during the Boxer troubles of 1900, for
which the various governments granted a medal to their
subjects in the corps. At that time the volunteers were the
sole defence of the settlement until the foreign troops arrived,
too late, after all, to be of any service. Every young man,
of every nationality, coming to Shanghai ought to join the
volunteers, now that the foreign garrison is withdrawn.
The Municipal Council makes the corps its peculiar
charge, expending in 1902 the sum of Tls. 25,890,52 upon it.
A magnificent range is provided for shooting, with a lavish
supply of silver cups for the various competitions. Arms and
accoutrements are found, as well as a club and gymnasium in
the Town Hall, where drill is performed in wet weather.
The various companies are :
The Light Horse. German Company.
Artillery. Japanese Company.
" A " Company. Customs Company.
" B " Company. Medical Staff.
The volunteers are inspected annually by an officer of field
rank from Hongkong.
The requirements for efficiency are all laid down in a hand-
book which may be obtained from the authorities.
159
Police
Shanghai is admirably policed. With the huge native
population and the mixture of nationalities the order kept
is remarkable. Under the police superintendent there were
(in 1902) 83 European constables, 167 Sikhs, 604 Chinese
constables. There is a staff of foreign and native detectives,
which does very smart work. In 1902, out of $164,478 stolen
no less than $139,553 were recovered. The settlement is also
patrolled by mounted Sikhs, who always attract the attention
of visitors, who are often puzzled as to their nationality. I
have been asked if they were Turks.
On the whole, life and property are safer in Shanghai
than in most cities of the West, very much more so than in
many of them. The visitor may make himself quite easy on
the score of his personal safety among the crowds of Chinese
on the streets by day. He is equally safe at night.
In 1902 there were only 56 cases of larceny from the person,
7 of robbery, none of man-slaughter, none of shooting, none
of robbery with violence, 3 of murder among the Chinese
only. I have not heard of any case of a foreigner having
been murdered by a Chinese in the whole history of the
settlement.
The weekly Police returns, which a visitor may see in the
papers, look alarming, judged by the large numbers figuring
in them, but on analysis they amount to nothing. For
instance, January, 1902, has a grand total of 10,101 arrests;
but of these 1,676 were for "nuisances," including the letting
off of crackers and burning joss-paper, so dear to the Chinese
heart; 1,072 for obstruction, much of which cannot be
avoided ; 3,263 were beggars, who try their luck in the
settlement, and are rather pleased to get into a prison that
provides free rice ; 3,396 were 'rickshaw coolies for either being
dirty or having dirty 'rickshaws. These account for 9,407 of
the total number arrested. There is also a very efficient force
of river police under the Imperial Maritime Customs.
The total cost of the Police Force in 1902 was Tls. 241,230,44.
160
The Shanghai Fire Brigade
Quite a feature of Shanghai is its Fire Brigade, Shanghai
being the only important city that I am aware of in which the
extinguishing of fires is undertaken voluntarily with positive
enthusiasm and pleasure, even in the most unearthly hours of
the night, by a staff of amateur firemen drawn from the young
men of the settlement.
Up to 1866 the matter was left to each hong to put out its
own fires.
In 1866 a volunteer fire brigade was formed, the Council
having wells dug to supply water.
Hand-engines were imported, and the brigade placed on its
present footing. Since then vast improvements have been
made, and the brigade is now in a very high state of efficiency.
Water is supplied from the water company's mains.
There are at present the following companies :
Mih-ho-loongs .
Hongkew .
No. 1
„ 2
Deluge
Le Torrent
Victoria
„ 4
„ 6
„ 7
The companies are supplied with the necessary fire-engines,
hose-reels, ladders, and trucks.
In its report for 1902 the Council states that "the existing
fire appliances are sufficient to cope with a fire in any building
in the Settlement." This a good many people doubt.
Men from No. 1 and No. 4 Companies have quarters at the
Central Station in Honan Road. In addition to the volunteers,
there is a paid native staff. The whole are under a chief
engineer and paid departmental engineer.
The amount of work falling to the firemen may be gathered
from the report for 1902, when there were 102 fires in the
settlements, 155 houses being destroyed and 112 damaged.
The cost to the ratepayers is about Tls. 21,000 per annum.
The alarm of fire is given in an old-fashioned but very
161 n
Public Band
effective manner. A bell is rung on each of two lofty wooden
towers, one in Shantung Road, one at the Hongkew Police
Station. A bell rings for thirty seconds at the first alarm of
fire, then ;
For East Hongkew .... i stroke
For West Hongkew . . . . .2 strokes
For Central District north of Nanking Road 3 strokes
West of Nanking Road .... 4 strokes
French Settlement . . . . .5 strokes
Bubbling Well and Sinza . ... 6 strokes.
Public Band
A society rejoicing in the name of "The Amateur Wind
Instrument Society " seems to have been first in the field with
a public band. In 1879 the trustees of the Recreation Fund
took over the effects of this society in trust for the public, and
in that year a provisional committee was formed to establish
a public band. Musicians were engaged at Manila, and the
band established. The band continued under entirely private
management until 1881. In that year it was taken over by
the community at the annual ratepayers' meeting, and was
supported from public funds, under a committee of manage-
ment on which the two Councils and the ratepayers were
represented. In 1900 the management was taken over directly
by the Council.
The band is now a most important element in the pleasures
and recreations of the Settlement.
In T902 182 public performances were given, while 272
private engagements were' fulfilled.
The bandmaster, Signor Valenza, has issued a printed
repertoire for the convenience of the public.
There are at present 35 bandsmen, all from Manila. The
band played in the Public Gardens from May 19th to Novem-
ber 3rd, 1902, in the afternoons; and from July 15th to
September 26th, at 9 p.m. It plays in the Town Hall on
Wednesday afternoons during the winter months. Its cost in
1902 was Tls. 17,460.
162
SECTION IV
CLUBS AND SOCIETIES
IN Shanghai all kinds of clubs and associations abound. I
have done my best to classify them. The names of the
various secretaries are not given, as these officials change ;
but there is no difficulty in ascertaining them.
I
National and Local Associations
St. George's Association
This association has not been very active for some years ;
but, in the course of its later history, it has given fetes. On
April 23rd, 1903, there was a promenade concert in the Town
Hall, and on the King's birthday (November 9th, 1903) a
fancy-dress ball in the Town Hall.
American Association of China
This association exists to " further and safeguard the
interests of the citizens of the United States in China, Japan,
Korea, the Philippine Islands, and elsewhere in Asia ; to
gather and distribute information."
Membership is open to American citizens resident in these
countries. Subscription, $10 annually for residents in Shang-
hai ; $5 for others.
Deutsche Vereinigung (German Association)
This association exists for the purpose of furthering German
interests, especially those of a commercial character, in the Far
East. There is also in Shanghai a branch of the Deutscher
Flottenverein (German Navy League), which has 650,000
members all over the world.
163
National Associations
The Swiss Community
formed a society in October, 1902, with the name of
" Helvetia," " Societe Suisse en Chine."
The objects of the society are to help necessitous Swiss, and
to form a rallying point for the nation in the East.
There are two classes of members, " effectifs " and "passifs."
The entrance fee is $5, the monthly subscription $1.
The China Association
has a branch in Shanghai. In addition to the Annual Meeting
it meets only when very important political and commercial
matters need discussion, as during the recent matter of the
new British Treaty with China.
St. Andrew's Society of Shanghai
This flourishing Society was established in 1865 (November
30th) and reorganised in 1886 (October 25th).
The objects of the society are — the relief of Scotchmen or
their families, the promotion of goodwill among Scotchmen in
the Far East, and the holding of a national gathering on St.
Andrew's Day.
The subscription is $2 per annum. At present there are
about 700 members.
St. Andrew's Day is celebrated by a ball, which is the great
annual social event in Shanghai.
The society maintains two bursaries at the Public School for
children of Scotch parentage, each valued at $100.
Association of British Colonials in the Far East
The object of this association is the promotion of goodwill
and friendship among Colonials in the Far East, the relief of
Colonials or their families when destitute or in difficulties, and
the furthering of Colonials' interests in the Far East.
The entrance fee is $5 ; the annual subscription $2.
Candidates must be proposed, seconded, and balloted for.
The society was formed on December nth, 1902.
164
Shanghai Club
St. Patrick's Society of Shanghai
The present rules were drawn up in 1894 only ; the society
has existed for many years.
The objects of the society are the relief of Irishmen or their
families, the promotion of goodwill and friendship among
Irishmen in the Far East, and the celebration of St. Patrick's
Day.
Association of Lancastrians in Shanghai
This association was founded in the year 1900, and mem-
bership is open to all born in Lancashire, or who have, in the
opinion of the committee, sufficiently identified themselves
with the county by residence or otherwise.
The objects of the association are partly social and partly
benevolent. An annual ball is held.
The subscription for the first year is $5, and subsequent
years $2. The number of members at present is fifty-six.
Candidates must be passed by two-thirds of the committee
present.
II
Social Clubs
Shanghai Club
This club was at first a proprietary institution, the ordinary
members having no vote in its management. It was built in
the days when Shanghai was so abnormally prosperous that
once the Autumn Races even could not be held.
It was opened in 1864, and was built on ground occupied by
Hiram Fogg's store and a wood-yard. In consequence of the
abundance of money at that time, the club was planned on
far too ambitious a scale, though it has been good for posterity
that it was, and it was in financial difficulties until the eighties.
It is now the property of the members, and, having survived all
the difficulties, is now the premier club in the East, and in a
flourishing position. Some particulars as to its equipment
165
Club Concordia
will be found in the description in the section "A Walk along
the Bund."
The club consists of an unlimited number of members,
subscribing and honorary.
Conditions of ' Membership. — Proposal and seconding by
members of the club ; exhibition of the name for three months
prior to the ballot, in which one black ball in five excludes.
Honorary Members. — Ministers, salaried Consuls-General,
Consuls, a Judge exercising his functions in Shanghai, shall, on
the invitation of the committee, become honorary members.
Commissioned officers of the military, naval, and diplomatic
services may become subscribers without payment of entrance
fee.
Visitors. — On being proposed and seconded by members,
visitors may have the use of the club for fourteen days, but
not oftener than three times in twelve months. Members of
the Bengal, Singapore, and Hongkong clubs have visitors'
privileges.
The entrance fee is $100 ; monthly subscription, $7. Absent
members pay $5 per annum.
Club Concordia
This club must be accorded the next place to the Shanghai
Club in importance, as the headquarters of the influential
German community in Shanghai. It was founded on
October 20th, 1865, and was located in the Foochow Road.
The present club house, at No. 10, Canton Road, was formerly
Mackenzie's Store. This was acquired in 1880 and opened on
January 1st, 1881, after being equipped with most of the
requirements of a first-rate club. There is a ballroom, which
is also fitted with a stage for theatrical performances. Excellent
concerts are given. There are billiard-rooms, a card-room, and
bowling-alley. Tiffins and dinners are served to the members
in excellent style at a fixed tariff per month when desired.
Some famous entertainments have been given in the club
ballroom, the most noteworthy taking place during the visit
of Prince Henry of Prussia to Shanghai, in April, 1898.
166
Country Club
The subscription is $6 a month, with entrance fee
of $50 ; candidates for membership must be proposed
and seconded and balloted for. Although the membership
is naturally mainly confined to Germans, the club membership
is open to all who speak German. Those who cannot speak
German are admitted, but have no vote in the management
of the club. At present the membership is about 250. A
new club house will shortly be erected on a commanding site
in Jinkee Road.
Country Club
No. 120, Bubbling Well Road, opposite the Taotai's residence,
is " the pleasantest club in Shanghai " ; it is of a purely social
character. The resident membership is limited to 175; the
ladies of the members' families have all the privileges of the
club without payment of entrance fees or subscriptions, though
without votes. The club house stands on 65 mow of ground
(nearly 11 acres) ; the gardens have been admirably 'laid out by
the " Garden and Grounds Committee,'' with lawns, flower
beds, and ornamental water. The club house is replete with
every requisite for the pleasure of the members. There are
six billiard tables, a card-room, a miniature theatre, and hand-
some ballroom, and even four ping-pong tables.
The building, despite its long, straight line, presents a com-
fortable and handsome appearance from the road. A circular
drive has lately been made up to it.
There are three classes of members — resident, absent, and
honorary. " Persons of distinction " may as well observe
that the committee has power to invite them " to make use of
the club as honorary members without payment of subscrip-
tion." Further, " any gentleman who may temporarily visit
Shanghai shall, upon being duly proposed and seconded in
a book kept for that purpose, be admitted to the use of the
club as a visitor for a period not exceeding ten days, without
subscription." After that time he must, reasonably enough,
pay.
The conditions of membership are — candidates must be
proposed and seconded by members ; their names are placed
167
Masonic Club
on the board for six days prior to a general ballot of the
members ; one black ball in seven excludes ; not less than thirty
members form a ballot. The entrance fee is $100, the
subscription $7 per month.
A short sketch of its history is to be found in the " Con-
stitution and Rules of the Club.''
Masonic Club
This club, formed in 1882, has a home in the Masonic Hall,
on the Bund. There is a good library, billiard-room, reading-
room, bar, and all the appointments of a good club.
The yearly subscription is $50, the entrance fee $50, and
the membership about 300.
The club rents portions of the Masonic Hall building from
the executive committee in whom the hall is vested.
It must be borne in mind that it is a common mistake made
by brethren attending masonic meetings at the Masonic Hall
to imagine that, because the Masonic Club meets in the same
building, they are entitled to use the club without having been
elected members. That is, of course, not the case. A mason
may, or may not, be a member of the club.
The Freemasons' Lodge Germania is for Germans only.
Mercantile Marine Officers' Association
( Kos. 4 <5* 5, North Soochow Road)
Every master, mate, or pilot connected with the shipping
of this or any port is eligible for membership. Candidates
must be proposed and seconded ; one black ball in five ex-
cludes. The entrance fee is $10, and subscription $2-50 per
month. The club possesses a library and two billiard-tables ;
there is also a bar.
The object of the society is to provide a club, to provide
amusement and instruction, and "pay particular attention to
the maritime meteorology of Eastern Asia."
Any otherwise eligible master, mate, or pilot who is on
shore employment may become an associate member.
168
Marine Engineers' Institute
Visiting Members. — Members who visit this port not oftener
than once in four months, or who are attached to steamers
or sailing vessels whose names are not in the list of " Local
Steamers and Sailing Vessels trading to Shanghai," shall be
termed visiting members. They have the same privileges as
other members, and pay $2 a year, but they shall not be
entitled to vote.
Shanghai Marine Engineers' Institute
This excellent institute was formed in 1876 "to encourage
and foster professional intercourse between marine engineers
of all classes, whether employed in steamers trading to and
from Shanghai or on shore ; to provide commodious and
properly furnished premises, containing library and reading-
rooms supplied with books, newspapers, and periodicals, as
well as appropriate aspects of technical interest ; for the en-
couragement of self-culture, study, and advancement of a
knowledge of the members' profession ; also to provide room
for amusement, recreation, music, meetings, refreshment,
the reception and distribution of members' correspondence,
and for convenience of all kinds." All these objects it
achieves in its commodious and comfortable premises, No. 8,
Nanking Road.
There is an excellent library, billiard-room, bar, etc.
Membership is divided into six classes — full members,
associates, graduates, visiting members, honorary members,
out-port members. The subscription for full members is $3
per month, with $10 entrance fee.
Present membership, about 300.
Young Men's Christian Association of Shanghai
Under one management are the Foreign Association and the
Chinese Association and the Student's Association. For many
years there had been an association, but without a local
habitation and club house.
169
Y.M.C.A.
Under Mr. R. E. Lewis, of the International Y.M.C.A.
Committee, the present associations were formed and premises
secured, for the rent of which a generous guarantee fund of
Tls. 4,000 per annum for four years was raised.
The Chinese Y.M.C.A. is doing excellent work at its
rooms in Peking Road. We are mostly concerned here with
the Foreign Association. Its handsome premises are situated in
1, Jinkee Road (off the Bund between the Peking and Nanking
Roads).
Dining- and reading-rooms and office are on the ground
floor, and upstairs are the drawing-room, reading- and billiard-
rooms. Above are residential rooms.
Larger premises are urgently needed for the large member-
ship of 400. Classes are organised. A debating society is
connected with the association, as well as cricket, football,
and tennis clubs, for which a small subscription is charged
in addition to the monthly subscription of $2. Annual
athletic sports are held, which are very well managed, and are
quite a feature in the athletic life of Shanghai.
The association is under the management of directors
and executive committee. The power of voting and
holding office is, as usual in Y.M.C.A.'s, vested in the
" active members " only — i.e. those who are members of
orthodox Protestant Churches ; other members have all the
privileges of the association except that of voting and holding
office.
Customs Club
This club is situated at the corner of Chapoo and Boone
Roads, and is open to all members of the Imperial Maritime
Customs service. Subscription, $2 per month.
There is a library, billiard-room with three billiard tables,
card-room, bar, bowling-alley, and ballroom reputed to be the
best room for dancing in Shanghai (when not in use as a
ballroom it is fitted up as a gymnasium). The membership is
about 150
170
C.B.R.A.S.
Volunteer Club
This- club exists for the benefit of the Shanghai Volunteers,
and has its quarters in the Town Hall, Nanking Road. There
is a well-stocked reading-room, a separate room for officers,
and the best gymnasium in the Far East. The club is free to
volunteers.
Club Portuguez
This club was founded in 1901 for Portuguese subjects in
Shanghai. It is situated at No. 30, North Szechuen Road,
opposite the Club de Recreio. The buildings are new, and in
every way well equipped for their purpose. The conditions of
membership are the same as those of the Club de Recreio.
Deutscher Gartenclub (German Garden Club)
This is a proprietary club, with three hundred shares of
Tls.ioo each, for "the promotion of the social life of the
members and their wives as well, as for the furtherance of
interest in sport." It is intended, as far as I can gather, to
be a "German Country Club."
The entrance fee is $50, the monthly subscription $5, and
only shareholders vote.
Ill
Literary and Educational Associations
China Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society
In 1857, says Maclellan, the Shanghai Literary and
Scientific Society was formed. In 1858 this society was
affiliated with the Royal Asiatic Society, a branch of which
had been established in Hongkong.
The building in which the society is housed is situated in
the Museum Road, just behind the British Post Office. There
is a good library of books, on Oriental subjects mainly ; a good
supply of the proceedings of learned societies and learned
I7 1
Literary Associations
magazines is kept. There is an exceedingly comfortable
lecture hall ; upstairs is the museum. The fathers of the
settlement did well for it ; their successors do nothing. The
best thing in it is the collection of the birds of China, which
is well worth a visit. Papers are read at irregular intervals,
as they offer. They are often monuments of erudition, and
are printed in an annual volume, which is of great value.
The subscription is $5 per annum.
Photographic Society-
Years ago a society existed, but died out. A new society
was formed in 1902 (April), and now has about ninety
members. The Society meets in Union Church Lecture Hall,
Yuen-ming-yuen Road, fortnightly during the autumn and
winter. The subscription is $5 the first year, $2 annually for
subsequent years. The society possesses a lantern of its own,
for the exhibition of the members' lantern slides.
Union Church Literary and Society Guild
This society meets fortnightly during the season. It is open
to residents as well as to members of this church. Members
must be proposed and balloted for. Subscription, $1. There
are four hundred members. Visitors to Shanghai may attend
the meetings, which are generally announced in the " Social
Diary " of the Daily News, and the corresponding columns in
the other papers.
American Women's Literary Association
This is a society confined to American ladies, who meet
periodically for the reading and discussion of papers.
Horticultural Society
This society gives two flowershows per annum. They are
held in the Town Hali. There is a magnificent display of
flowers and vegetables and table decoration. Subscription,
$3 per annum, entitles to tickets for the show.
172
Chamber of Commerce
American University Club
The president of this club is the U.S.A. Consul-General.
Its object is to be a bond of union among all who have
passed through American Universities.
The following societies are for residents of German
nationality : —
Deutscher Concert Verein (German Concert Society)
Very high-class concerts are given during the winter by this
society, and I believe that tickets for these concerts must be
obtained through members.
Litterarischer Abend (Literary Evening)
Papers are read and discussions held every Friday night at
9 p.m. at the house of Pastor Boie, Whangpoo Road.
Deutscher Gesangverein (German Church Choir)
This choir practises every Tuesday afternoon at 5.30 p.m. at
the German School, Astor Road. At present there are thirty
members. Membership is open to men of all nationalities
who speak German.
IV
Professional and Business Associations
Chamber of Commerce
This is international. At its meeting in 1888 the charges,
commissions, and brokerages for transacting business in
Shanghai were settled. Offices, 1, Yuen-ming-yuen Road.
Stockbrokers' Association. — Offices, 4, The Bund.
!73
S.S.P.C.A.
Pilots' Association. — Founded in 1900 ; offices, 5, Peking
Road.
Yangtsee Pilots' Association.
Shanghai Society of Engineers and Architects
This society is for the general advancement of the science
and practice of engineering and architecture.
There are two classes of members : members who have the
right to vote (these are persons practising on their own account
or who are in responsible positions) ; and members who have
no right to vote are student or associate members.
The entrance is $10, and annual subscription $io; for
students $5. In the ballot one black ball in four excludes.
The society, which was formed in 1901, meets at 1, Yuen-
ming-yuen Road. There are about one hundred members.
V
Philanthropic Societies
Shanghai Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
This society was founded in August, 1898, at a meeting
called by Mr. Frank J. Maitland. Foreigners in Shanghai are
not in need of this institution, but the natives are.
Despite the refuge for " aged and infirm " water-buffaloes
at Soochow, there is nothing in which the Chinese character
appears to less advantage than in its treatment of animals, not
only of vermin such as rats — a favourite diversion being to
drench them in kerosene and set them on fire — but of domestic
animals. The Chinese livery-stable keepers have had several
sharp lessons taught them by this society, one man having
been fined $300.
The society is managed by a committee of gentlemen of all
nationalities. The subscription is $2 per annum. The muni-
cipal police authorities have entered most heartily into the
work of this society.
174
Philanthropic Societies
Shanghai Benevolent Society
This society has been in existence twenty-six years. It
assists the destitute with money, clothing, and food. In 1901
it spent $i,942 , 48. The average expenditure is about $1,500.
Subscriptions will be welcome.
N.B. — The various national societies ought really to be
scheduled under this head, as they give relief to the destitute
of their respective nationalities — the St. Andrew's Society to
destitute Scotchmen, the St. Patrick's Society to Irishmen, etc.
Shanghai Seamen's Mission
There is a Sailors' Home on Broadway, with chaplain. A
new church has been built. Mercantile marine sailors are
welcome to the reading-room, etc.
Shaftesbury Home
On Seward Road. A splendid resort, much frequented by
men of H.M. navy. The tariff is very moderate ; bedrooms
excellent. A new and palatial building was opened in 1903.
Coffee Tavern
A new coffee tavern is being built near the back of the
Astor House, on Broadway. This is under the management
of a committee.
First Aid Association
This association, affiliated with the St. John's Ambulance
Association, has periodical lectures given by medical men on
first aid to the injured.
The usual certificates are granted, and a fee of $5 is the
usual charge for the course.
Shanghai " Florence Crittenton " Home
This institution has been founded to undertake rescue work
among Chinese girls. The Taotai permits girls brought up at
175
Shanghai Recreation Fund
the Mixed Court to be under the care of the Home while wards
of the court. It is managed by a committee of ladies.
Shanghai Recreation Fund
No account of Shanghai can be made intelligible that omits
on account of the Shanghai Recreation Fund, which, " origin-
ating in the public spirit of a few individuals, has rendered
assistance to every movement for the intellectual, athletic, and
physical good of the community."
Always admirably administered, it has done untold good,
whether by the acquisition of the present priceless Recreation
Ground, assisting learning by its aid to the Asiatic Society,
ministering to the love of the beautiful by its assistance to the
Public Gardens, or lending a hand to the healthy outdoor
sports which are a distinguishing feature of Shanghai life, and
are necessary to the health of the community in this climate.
The history of the Recreation Fund is simple, and reflects
the greatest credit on the early residents in the settlement. It
is this : There was a racecourse on the site of the Fokien Road ;
the ground inside the course was vacant. Four gentlemen —
Messrs. R. C. Antrobus, James Whithall, Albert Heard, and
Henry Dent — in view of the rapidly increasing value of land
in the Settlement, thought that this ought to be secured as a
public recreation ground. They accordingly bought it (34 mow,
5 fung). A meeting of residents was held, they took the land
over, trustees being appointed to hold it for the public.
The cost of the ground was Tls. 5,365,60, the shareholders
recouping themselves by rents derived from parts of the
ground let to clubs and from pasturage.
Now we come to the second removal, further into the country,
to the present ground.
"In March, 1863, the value of land about Shanghai was so
much enhanced that it was deemed advisable to sell the
Recreation Ground, and to purchase with the proceeds a
larger and more suitable piece of land in the interior of the
new racecourse. The old Recreation Ground was accordingly
sold for Tls. 49>425- This sum of Tls. 49,425 constituted the
Recreation Fund."
176
Shanghai Cricket Club
The first use made of this fund was the purchase of 430 mow
of land in the interior of the racecourse for Tls. 12,500, in
the name of the trustees of the Shanghai Recreation Ground,
on November 28th, 1863.
This is the present Recreation Ground which the visitor will
see on the left when he emerges from the Nanking Road and
crosses the Loongfei Bridge to the Bubbling Well Road. The
value of it to the settlement is unspeakable, and I believe
that Tls. 2,500,000 have been offered for it by the Chinese
authorities. It is not necessary to give the further history of
this fund, except to say that the balance remaining out of the
Tls. 49,425, after the purchase and laying out of the Recreation
Grounds, has formed an invaluable fund, always available for
the assistance, by loan or otherwise, of all schemes for the
benefit of the public. The Shanghai Club, Cricket Club,
Baseball Club, Rowing Club, Public Gardens, and Museum are
among the numerous organisations that have been assisted.
According to the last balance sheet, for the year ending
December, 1902, "the fund has now settled down to an
annual income of, say, Tls. 2,500, which will be available for
promoting recreation without disturbing the capital of the
trust."
Its assets are Tls. 82,010,42, estimating the Recreation
Ground at its original value, with improvements, at Tls. 31,000
only, a ridiculously small sum.
VI
Sporting 1 Clubs
Cricket Club
That cricket was played in the earliest days of the settlement
is certain. Wherever Englishmen settle they play cricket.
Probably the first pitch was very poor ; it must have been
among the creeks, graves, and reed-beds that occupied the
site of Shanghai. We get out of prehistoric days in the years
i860 or j86i, when a club was formed, which, with the
exception of a very short interval in the autumn of 1863,
177 12
Shanghai Cricket Club
has flourished, with the usual ups and downs of clubs, until
now. Maclellan tells us that on September 9th, 1863, a meeting
was held, where it was resolved that " the old club may be
considered to have died out, and a new club be formed."
The death of the old club was, however, due to the fact that
the Recreation Ground trustees had sold the old Recreation
Ground, on which it had played, and purchased the present
Recreation Ground. In the interval the club had nowhere
to play, and was consequently dormant. But that the cricket
club has ever died out is denied by the present secretary, Mr.
Rayden.
At any rate, as soon as the present Recreation Ground was
secured, the trustees set to work to prepare a cricket ground.
Among the swamps that then composed it, a cricket ground
and baseball ground were the first to be laid out. From an
analysis of the funds of the Recreation Fund dated February
28th, 1866, we find that Mr. Henry Dent states that "raising,
levelling, and fencing the cricket ground had cost the trustees
Tls. 6,764,56. The interest on this sum is the origin of the
rent which the club now pays the trustees — Tls. 300 per
annum.
In 1864 the club had 80 members. At present there are
250 playing members and 200 honorary members. The
ground is now the finest in the East, with a pavilion fitted
out with dressing-rooms, baths, and every convenience.
The club has added lawn tennis, and is therefore the lawn
tennis club of Shanghai ; it also permits football on certain
conditions in the winter.
There are twelve tennis courts and eighteen nets for the
practice of cricket. There are few places where cricket is
better "housed" than Shanghai. The drawback to all such
games in the East is the fewness of clubs with which to play
matches. Occasional inter-port matches are held between
Yokohama, Shanghai, Hongkong, and Singapore that create
great interest. In 1901 Shanghai was champion. In 1903
Shanghai lost to Hongkong.
The subscription to playing members is Tls. r6, with Tls. 10
entrance fee ; honorary members, who have all the privileges
178
Shanghai Race Club
of the club but playing, Tls. 5. Names of intending members
must be posted a week; one black ball in five excludes.
Tennis privileges are of course included.
Visitors to Shanghai will appreciate Rule XV., " That any
gentleman who may temporarily visit Shanghai shall, upon
being duly proposed and seconded, be allowed the use of the
club property and ground for one month, free of subscription."
Race Club
Horse racing, cricket, rowing, and baseball seem to have
been the first sports that the earliest settlers indulged in.
Racing was probably the first.
From the history of the Shanghai Recreation Fund I find
that the first racecourse was " the plot of ground at the corner
of Park Lane (now the Nanking Road) and Barrier Road
(now the Honan Road), known as the Old Park, and used
for a racecourse and for other purposes of recreation."
It is difficult to realise that the Cathedral compound and the
Honan, Kiangse, and Lower Nanking Roads, now covered
with four- and six-storied buildings, were once a racecourse.
The Bowling Alley, No. 44, Nanking Road, is part of the
original grand-stand attached to this course.
In 1854 this was sold, owing to the rise in the value of
land, and what was called " the Shanghai Riding Course " was
laid out, and was used for a riding and race course. The
position of it can still be traced in the plan of the Settlement ;
Hupeh Road, Chekiang Road, Thibet Road (better known as
Defence Creek Road), which form a curve, occupy part of the
site. Roughly, it occupied the land round about the Drill
Hall on the Nanking Road. The old grand-stand stood on
the west side of the present Lloyd Road, and was pulled down
so recently as 1881. This was the second racecourse.
Again land became too valuable to be used for purposes of
recreation, and in either i860 or 1861 the present grass
course was purchased and laid out by twenty-four share-
holders. This was called the New Racecourse.
In 1862 the Recreation Fund trustees spent Tls. 580 upon
179
Shanghai Race Club
it, but I can find no record of the exact date of its purchase
nor of its cost. Thousands of taels have been spent upon it
by the Race Club, to bring it up to its present state of
perfection.
There are two racecourses : the outer one, just described,
belongs to the racecourse shareholders ; the inner mud
course is the property of the Recreation Fund trustees, who
hold the whole of the ground inside the grass course for the
public. The length of the grass course is forty-four yards
short of a mile and a quarter.
The Race Club, limited to four hundred members, owns a
handsome club-house and grand-stand. This building must
have been begun about 1861-2, but has been undergoing
alterations and enlargements ever since. The clock tower
was erected about 1 890. There is stabling for a large number
of ponies, and all appliances for racing;
Races are held twice a year, in May and November. Should
a visitor be in Shanghai at the time, if he is a racing man, he
may purchase a ticket of admittance ; if he is not, he will find
the scene one full of interest. The Chinese, a nation of bom
gamblers, have unfortunately taken as kindly to betting as they
have to their own gambling games, and crowds surround the
course. The racing is chiefly confined to China ponies.
If the visitor to Shanghai is inclined to think meanly of
ponies, because they are ponies, he may have his opinion
altered by this note from Mr. A. L. Robertson's account of
the China pony in Mr. R. W. Little's pamphlet " The Jubilee
of Shanghai " : " The stamina of the China pony is almost
beyond belief, as is illustrated by the weights they carry. The
official standard is 10 stone for 12 hands, and three pounds
for every inch above. In the early days of the Sixties, when
Shanghai was very rich and prosperous, we find that even
English horses were imported and run. The fall of the
dollar has, however, stopped this, and now, except for a few
walers (Australian horses), the racing is confined to China
ponies."
The earliest recorded race was in 1851. The following
table will be of interest : —
180
Record Times for China Ponies
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Dramatic Clubs
Amateur Dramatic Club of Shanghai
Generally known as the A.D.C. The exact date of the
foundation of this club cannot be ascertained, the early records
having been burned. It has, however, been in existence at
least forty years. The object is, the " encouragement of
amateur acting, and the maintenance of a theatre." The club
constitution requires that members shall be those who are
" willing to take an active part or otherwise to assist in
dramatic performances." The number of members is limited
to sixty ; new members have to be proposed and seconded
and elected by the general committee.
The subscription is $5, and membership is open to all
nationalities. The representations of the club are looked
forward to with great interest by the public of Shanghai.
Societe Dramatique Francaise
Commonly called the French A.D.C. This society was
formed about the year 1868 for the purpose of fostering
dramatic talent and giving performances. It was originally
confined to residents of French nationality, and gave its
performances in the French Municipal Hall.
From 1886 to 1892 the society lay dormant, or ceased
to exist, but in 1892 it was reorganised. Membership was
made open to any nationality. The performances are given
in the Lyceum Theatre. Since 1892 the society has given
thirty-one performances.
The subscription is $12 per annum, entitling the members
(from autumn, 1903) to two tickets for each performance,
instead of three as hitherto. This society is in a very
flourishing condition.
The number of members is limited to 200.
Shanghai Rowing Club
This club, founded in i860, is in a very flourishing condition.
It has about 200 members, owns 52 boats, including pleasure
182
Shanghai Golf Club
boats, possesses a boat-house opposite the Union Church
on the Soochow Creek, and is about to build a new one.
It holds two regattas annually, in May and October, on the
Whangpoo, not an ideal river for rowing on account of the
strong tides and currents ; but the Soochow Creek, on an
upper reach of which the regattas were held until 1895, is
now impossible, owing to the increase of traffic.
Membership is open to all nationalities.
Conditions of Membership. — The names of intending
members must be sent to the secretary with proposer and
seconder. In the ballot one black ball in five excludes.
The subscription is Tls. 15 per annum, with an entrance fee
of Tls. 10.
" Gentlemen visiting Shanghai may, after being proposed
and seconded, be allowed, at the discretion of the committee,
to use the club boat-houses, boats, and property for one
month, without the payment of any fee or subscription.
" Members of rowing clubs at the out-ports may become
non-resident members on payment of Tls. 5 per annum.''
The club flag is dark blue with S. R. C. in gold letters.
Shanghai Golf Club
This flourishing and popular club was formed in the year
1894. That golf was so long in establishing itself in Shanghai
is remarkable. The links are on the Recreation Ground, and
a handsome club-house was erected in 1898, with dressing-
rooms for ladies and gentlemen, gear-room, and bar.
Candidates must be balloted for, one black ball in five
excluding. Numerous competitions are held during the year.
The entrance fee is $25, and subscription $10 per year.
" Gentlemen temporarily visiting Shanghai, or newly intro-
duced by a member, may play for one month, but this privilege
cannot be claimed a second time in one season, except in case
of officers of the Army and Navy."
Members of recognised golf clubs may, ipso facto, be
visiting members. Distinguished residents or visitors may
be granted these privileges for a longer period " on the
183
Paper Hunt Club
approval of the committee " ; and on payment of $5 temporary
residents may become members of the club for two months,
and have all privileges except playing for prizes, medals, etc.
Members of the club may become life members on payment
of $100. Honorary members have all the privileges of the
club except playing and voting.
Paper Hunt Club
It is not likely that Englishmen were long in Shanghai
without becoming aware of the attractions of the surrounding
district for cross-country riding. It is not surprising, therefore,
that the Paper Hunt Club shares with the Race Club and
Cricket Club the honour of being one of the three oldest clubs
in Shanghai. As far back as 1855, after the collapse of the
Triad rebels, " small parties of men rode over the country
from point to point." But it was not until after the Taiping
rebellion had been put down in 1864 that the sport became
regularly organised.
It was due to some officers of regiments stationed here :
they introduced paper hunting as it had been conducted in
the Crimea and in India. Riders were sent ahead scattering
paper ; they were habited in red cowls to distinguish them
from the hunters, who had to catch them. There was no
finishing place, as now ; the " foxes " were actually hunted.
The first paper hunt was run in 1863, and was " won by
Mr. Augustus Broom on a pony called Mud," appropriately
enough, in regard to the condition in which ponies arrive at
the post. The sport has kept and increased its popularity,
and one of the most brilliant sights in Shanghai is the club
meet on a Saturday afternoon, when, if it occurs near the
Settlement, the throng of hunters and spectators presents a
very lively picture. Two silver cups are given each hunt, one
to a light and the other to a heavy weight.
" All those standing under twelve stone are light weights,"
and " no prize is given to a heavy weight unless he finishes
among the first six." Winners of hunts are privileged to wear
a red jacket.
184
Shanghai Yacht Club
The Shanghai Yacht Club
The following history of the Yacht Club will be of interest.
It is, as far as I know, the only history of yacht racing in
Shanghai. Mr. Murray Adamson, the hon. secretary, has kindly
compiled it.
"Wherever a few dozen Britishers are gathered together,
and the necessary watery element is to be found, there
will their native love of sailing produce something in the
nature of a yacht club. Thus, in the early fifties, Shanghai's
sailing enthusiasts discovered that the muddy, swift-flowing,
unattractive Whangpoo was a sufficient medium for the
purposes of yacht racing. The records of those early days
are missing, but we know that not later than the beginning
of the sixties racing was carried out with great keenness, the
craft being of very varied types, now mostly obsolete, but the
bulk of them were of the houseboat type with one long China
sail.
"Apart from the drawback of a swiftly flowing tidal river,
the yachtsmen of Shanghai require to be skilful and alert as
sailors. On account of the crowded state of the waterways, and
the numerous shallows and ' spits ' which abound in almost
all parts of the river — the down-river course, when thrashing
in a 'spanking breeze' through the crowd of junks bound up
the river on the first of the flood, or to negotiate the Woosung
junk anchorage in a foul tide and a blow, are no mean feats for
a yachtsman ; whilst the manipulation of a full-canvassed yacht
in the 'junks ' up river requires a cooler head and nicer sense of
judgment than are called for by any of the yachting centres at
home that I have ever seen, ' crowded Cowes ' not excepted.
It will thus be seen that, though by no means perfect, the
Whangpoo presents certain sporting features which doubtless
have maintained yachting on its muddy waters in the present
enthusiastically vital condition.
" From the year 1872, when the club was reconstituted in
its present form, until 1890, the boats raced with great regu-
larity. They were of considerable size, varying from about
185
Shanghai Yacht Club
1 8 to 47 tons, Thames measurement. Of these, the Charm,
Ariadne, Thistle, Wild Dash, Louise, and Pinafore were what
might be termed centre-board houseboat yachts, and were
rigged with large baton mainsail and jib. For long the
Undine proved facile princefis, and held the lead until the
advent of the Clutha. (46 tons) and Romola (47 tons) in 1883
and 1884. Both of them were proper cutter-rigged yachts, with
large centre-boards. The weekly competitions, principally over
what are now known as the long courses — namely, down river,
round the red buoy, outside Woosung, and return, and up
river -to mark-boat moored off the Sakong Creek, and return — ■
proved that the Clutha easily outclassed the rest of the fleet.
" The death-blow being given in 1891 to the large class racing
by the absolute invincibility of the Clutha over her rivals, and
the cost of upkeep being gradually made more burdensome,
owing to the proportionately reduced wealth of many yachts-
men, as year by year the fall in exchange reduced the value of
silver savings, a class of smaller boats was introduced, and the
2^ rater, under the then existing Y.R.A. rule of measure-
ment, with the exception that length over all was taken — viz.
length x sail area in square feet .. ., ., , ,
— 5 2 = rating — became the standard
6,000
craft for the S.Y.C.'s weekly races.
" To meet this rule, in 1892 Mr. Moore, of Messrs. Barlow &
Co., had the Larnb and Mr. E. C. Pearce thePrmcess constructed,
and Mr. A. E. Jones designed and built the Spoondrift, and later
the Henrietta, whilst Mr. Duncan Glass brought out plans from
home of the Violet, designed for the class by Mr. G. L. Watson ;
and later the same eminent constructor forwarded plans of
the Winifred to Mr. McEwen, of Jardine's — a boat intended
to surpass the splendid feats of his former creation, the Violet,
which, however, she failed to do. The Atom and the Pirate,
locally designed and built by Mr. Ramsay, who afterwards
designed and built the Ella, together with Mr. E. Graham's
Idaho, and the 2nd-rater Mascotte, owned by Mr. Burgoyne,
made up the club fleet under this ruling, which was success-
fully operated until 1896, when the Violet being 'cock o' the
walk,' Captain J. P. Roberts essayed to reduce her supremacy,
186
Shanghai Yacht Club
and designed and built for Mr. Burgoyne the Lorna, a boat of
the skimming-dish type, which, principally owing to very skilful
handling, successfully accomplished this object.
"In 1897 a one-design class, known as ' Flappers,' was intro-
duced to suit the pockets of the junior members of the club.
These boats were designed on an adopted model of Mr. Linton
Hope's Clyde (18-ft. class) by Mr. George Watson, of Shanghai,
the main difference being an over-all length of 24 ft., instead
of 21 ft., and an increase of 25 square ft. in the sail area. Five
boats were built to this class — viz. Leven, Madcap, Sybil, Merlin,
and Irvine — and gave probably the best racing that has been
enjoyed in Shanghai for many years, the boats proving both
economical and handy."
These boats continued racing as a separate class until 1901,
when they were merged in the handicap class. The Leven
proved all round to be the pick of the bunch, though we are
inclined to believe that this was principally due to the excellent
handling of her owner, Mr. Murray Adamson, and not to any
superiority in the boat herself.
The Lorna, in 1897, being so far superior to the other
boats, under the usual conditions of sailing on the Whangpoo,
bid fair to cause the extinction of the 2\ rating class ;
accordingly the rule relating to the overhang was abolished,
the proper length and sail area rule applying, the same being
in force at the present time.
Messrs. D. Glass and A. E. Jones, taking advantage of this,
had their boats the Violet and Spoondrift lengthened and
overhangs added, which made a great improvement in the
boats and benefited the racing in the class. The following
year the Lorna changed hands, and, imitating the example of
the former boats, was considerably changed, her new owner
renaming her the Winsome.
In 1900 a new boat appeared amongst the fleet, of larger
dimensions than the 2| raters — i.e. the Thrasher — which boat
was lengthened during the next year.
In 1901 the Midget Sailing Club was absorbed and the
Rating and Flapper classes abolished, the fleet being divided
into classes A and B, Class A for 2 raters and over, and
187
Recreation Clubs
Class B for under 2 raters, the weekly races being under
handicap conditions made up by the committee. In addition
to this a rating prize was allowed, which applied to the whole
fleet. These conditions remain at present in force.
Midget Sailing Club
The boats used by this club are sampans — not the gaily
painted and hooded variety familiar to passengers from ships
to the shore, but the small, square-ended sampans used as the
dingies by houseboats. They are used by sportsmen up-
country for stalking wildfowl, and are sometimes sailed as well
as yuloed.
The members of the club sail their sampans for sport one
against the other on the waters above Shanghai. There is an
occasional regatta. The club is a very informal and therefore
a pleasant one. The subscription is nominal — $1, to cover
cost of printing. This club is not to be confused with that
of the same name which was absorbed by the Yacht Club
(which see).
Recreation Club
This club, the object of which is " the promotion of field
and other sports among its members," was founded in 1898,
and is the successor of the old Athletic Club, which dates
some thirty years back and used to hold annual athletic sports,
as the present Y.M.C. A. does. It has an excellent field next
to the Cricket Club, on the Recreation Ground, with pavilion.
For playing members the entrance fee is $10 and annual
subscription $15; for non-playing members, no entrance fee,
and subscription $5. Candidates must be proposed and
seconded and balloted for, one black ball in three excluding.
" Any gentleman who may temporarily visit Shanghai shall,
upon being duly proposed and seconded, be allowed the use
of the club and property for a period not exceeding one
month."
The first cricket eleven of this club is very strong.
Recreation Clubs
Football
There are, as far as I can ascertain, six football elevens in
Shanghai, apart from second elevens : —
i. The Shanghai Football Club (Association and Rugby).
2. The Recreation Club Eleven.
3. The Engineers' Football Club.
4. The Dock Football Club.
5. The Y.M.C.A. Club.
6. The Police Football Club.
The chief event of the year is the match between the
Shanghai Club and the Engineers, for a handsome cup.
Association football is the more popular of the two games
in Shanghai.
Polo Club
This club has been established about four years. Its
ground is on the south-west side of the Recreation Ground
(farthest from the Bubbling Well Road).
Playing members pay $10 per annum ; honorary members,
$5 fop the season. New members must be passed by the
committee, which can stop the admission of new members in
case the number of playing members becomes too large. In
playing, one side wears white, the other red.
All officers of the Army and Navy may be invited to join
the games by the committee. Residents of the out-ports may
join the games, if introduced by members.
Ponies are to be approved by the committee, and must not
exceed 14 hands 2 inches.
Shanghai Drag-Hunt Club
This club has been in existence for about forty years, and
three times a week during the season there are runs across
country.
The membership is open to both ladies and gentlemen. If
the field becomes 100 large, the committee may restrict further
189
Recreation Clubs
elections. There are about forty members. The annual
subscription is $50. In the ballot one black ball in ten
excludes.
There are at present ten couples of foxhounds, all of which
have been imported from England, those bred locally being
useless for hunting purposes.
Baseball Club
The national game of the United States was played in the
early days of the Settlement. Provision was made for it when
the present Recreation Ground on the Bubbling Well Road
was acquired.
In May, 1865, the Recreation Fund lent the club Tls. 2,000
to level fences and sod the baseball ground, 150 yards square,
adjoining the cricket ground. This ground is now occupied
by the Recreation Club. The club, however, ceased to exist
in 1870, handing the ground back to the trustees of the
Recreation Fund. Since then it has had a chequered career,
owing to the absence of competing teams to play with. The
present club has been in existence about eight years.
The subscription is $5 per annum. Candidates for member-
ship must be proposed and balloted for.
During the season, which extends from the conclusion of
the May races till October, the club has a room in the Metro-
pole Hotel, where the gear is kept. The present membership
is about seventy-five.
Gun Club
This old-established club has a ground in Markham Road,
where there is every convenience for the sport. Clay pigeons
are used. There is a high bamboo platform for rocketers.
Sportsman's Gun Club
This club was formed in 1901. The grounds are alongside
the Rifle Range, and are within ten minutes' walk of the
Settlement, vi& the new Szechuen Road extension. The club
ground is open at all times for practice.
190
Recreation Clubs
Swimming- Bath Club
This club was formed in 1892, and a swimming-bath was
made on the Recreation Ground. Only shareholders can be
members. The shares, of which there were 200 originally,
at Tls. 30 apiece, are now at a very high premium — nearly
Tls. 150.
The only way to obtain the advantages of the club is to
buy a share at its market value, and be passed in the ordinary
way. Candidates must be balloted for, one black ball in four
excluding. " Visitors may be admitted to the club under
such rules as the committee see fit." The subscription varies,
according to the needs of the club. The bath is to the left, at
the end of the straight drive into the Recreation Ground. The
mat roofing has to be taken down before the autumn races, as
the Race Club sold the Recreation Ground on condition that
no erection should be permitted to interfere with the view of
the racecourse.
Shanghai Hockey Club
This club was formed in the year 1899. It shall consist of
not more than sixty members. The annual subscription is
$3 ; the entrance fee, $3. In the balloting, one black ball in
five excludes.
Tennis
The game of tennis is a department in the Cricket and
Recreation Clubs and Y.M.C.A. There is a German Tennis
Club for Germans only. Entrance fee, Tls. 20 : monthly
subscription, $5. The club has a plot of the Recreation
Ground allotted to it. There is a small club-house.
Bowling Alley
This club meets in one of the oldest buildings in Shanghai,
in a small plastered house in the Nanking Road, nearly
opposite the Kiangse Road corner. It is a survivor of the old
fives and racquet court. The club is, as far as membership is
concerned, . the most exclusive in Shanghai : there are only
191
Recreation Clubs
twenty-four members. Candidates have to wait some years
on the list before vacancies occur.
Shanghai Rifle Association
This association is one of very great importance. Now that
the foreign troops have left Shanghai, every resident ought at
least to know how to shoot.
This, association affords the opportunity, for though Rule IV.
of the constitution says that " membership shall be restricted
to members of the defence forces of Shanghai and such others
as may be specially approved by the committee," Rule I., stating
" that the association shall consist of an unlimited number of
members," opens it to all suitable residents.
There are some three or four shoots per month at the Rifle
Range, and members may practise with Morris tubes at the
Drill Hall. The subscription is only $5 per annum.
Cups are given in the shooting competitions. "The rifle
allowed shall be as follows (Rule X.) : '303 magazine rifle as
issued by the British Government and of private manufacture
of bon&-fide Government pattern, and bearing the Government
viewer's mark ; also any other pattern of '303 rifle issued by
the Municipal Council."
Smoking Concert Club
Subscription, $5. Holds some two or three concerts during
the winter season.
Club de Recreio
This club is situated in 31, North Szechuen Road, and was
founded in 1870. The membership is restricted to persons of
Portuguese nationality. The objects of the club are to hold
recreational, musical, and social gatherings for the members
and their families. Musical and social gatherings are held at
intervals, often fortnightly.
The subscription is $3 per month, with $1 entrance fee.
Candidates must be proposed and seconded, and their names
exhibited for a fortnight. Two black balls exclude.
192
Shooting 1
Shooting has been pursued with great ardour since the
earliest days of the Settlement. " Few large places can boast
of better shooting than Shanghai," says Mr. H. T. Wade,
whose book on Shooting in the Yangtsze Valley ought to be
seen by all interested in this form of sport. The supply of
birds in the district is due to the fact that " Shanghai lies on
the eastern limit of the great migratory spring and autumn
band, which is known to be five hundred miles wide.''
From Siberia to the south in autumn and in the opposite
direction in spring countless millions of wildfowl cross the
Yangtsze and feed by its waters. China is also naturally rich
in bird life ; it is the original home of the pheasant. Two
other causes account for the richness of this district, from
Shaughai to Wuhu, in bird life — the fact that the natives have
never been in the habit of destroying them for food, and the
desolation caused by the Taipings in the sixties. The popu-
lation was swept away, jungle grass grew instead of rice, cities
were ruined ; so that wildfowl flourished.
Some extraordinary bags have been made. "It 1887 five
guns bagged 1,711 head; in 1889 five guns in twenty-one days
bagged 2,049." These feats . are not likely to be repeated,
and greater moderation will have to be shown in the future by
sportsmen. Even the bird life of China, enormous as it is,
cannot stand the strain put upon it every winter by sportsmen
and native trappers. Still, there is at present ample sport.
Snipe are still bagged close to 'the Settlement, also occasional
pheasants.
The best shooting-grounds can only be reached by a house-
boat trip. The sportsman may visit the Pootung peninsular,
and the estuary of the Yangtsze by Woosung. Gazay and
Kashing districts, Hoochow, Woosieh to Chiukiang and Wuhu,
are favourite resorts. As far as I understand, snipe and wood-
cock, pheasants, wild duck, and teat may be obtained almost
everywhere.
Visitors anxious for shooting ought to try and obtain expert
'93 13
Riding 1
advice from some old hand, and read Mr. H. T. Wade's
" With Boat and Gun," to be obtained at Messrs. Kelly &
Walsh's. It must be remembered that the Shanghai Municipal
Council enforces a close season for game ; this is observed by
all sportsmen. Twelve-bore cartridges are usually employed.
Riding
There are few places where the adage " The best thing for
the inside of a man is the outside of a horse " is better under-
stood than in Shanghai. Riding is one thing that is far cheaper
here than at home, where to keep even a riding pony, let
alone a horse, is a sign of wealth. Riding is very popular.
A visit to the Bubbling Well Road between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m.
will prove that no form of sport has a greater hold on the
community. The usual mount is the tough China pony.
Some ride Australian horses (walers), but the majority ponies.
They may be bought at the Horse Bazaar and Horse
Repository (q.v.) auctions, or hired at any of the three foreign
livery stables at $3 a ride or $40 a month. Bargains may
sometimes be got at Tls. 30 to Tls. 50. They may be
bought broken or as "griffins" — i.e. unbroken, fresh from
Mongolia. At the race auctions likely griffins at times fetch
hundreds of taels. For riding there are the soft roads in the
country — Robison, Gordon, Brenan, Rubicon, Hungjao Roads,
Rue du Paul Brunat, etc. Riders are confined to these in spring
and summer ; but in winter, from the end of October until
some time in March, the whole country is open. This is the
paper hunt season. Any rider, however, can ride anywhere
across furrow and ditch, of course taking reasonable care not
to destroy the farmers' property. Strangers are warned not to
despise nor treat contemptuously the China pony because he
is " only a pony.'' Having gained his experience of human
nature from the Mongolian variety of it, he has not been
impressed by it, and is apt to treat man as " the enemy."
There is an x quantity in every China pony. An undignified
position on the ground is the penalty of treating him
contemptuously.
194
SECTION V
DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OF
SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI is situated in latitude 31° 14' 42" N. and
longitude 12 i° 29' 12" E. on the left bank of the River
Whangpoo, twelve miles from its mouth at Woosung, where the
Whangpoo falls into the mighty Yangtszekiang. It may be
helpful to remember that Shanghai lies in practically the same
latitude as the head of the Persian Gulf, Cairo, and New
Orleans, which makes its frosty winter all the more remarkable.
History of the District
Shanghai lies in the south-east corner of that portion of the
province of Kiangsu to the south of the Yangtsze. Kiangsu and
portions of the neighbouring provinces of Chekiang and Anhuei
form a vast plain, owing its origin to the fine silt brought down
in the course of ages by the Yangtsze and deposited in the sea.
The physical features of the district have, therefore, undergone
enormous changes since the day when Wuhu was the head of
the delta of the Yangtszekiang, and that river found its way to
the sea by three mouths at least. Even in historic times these
changes have been great. In a.d. 780 the Soochow Creek is
said to have been five miles broad, and the Soochow Creek
was the main stream, the Whangpoo flowing only as far as
Loongwha, finding its way to the sea by another channel.
These changes still continue : the Whangpoo is said to be at
J 95
Physical Features
least two hundred yards narrower than it was thirty years ago,
and the Soochow Creek, in the mouth of which the British
fleet anchored in 1843, now affords a passage for boats only in
mid-channel. So serious has the condition of the river become
that a conservancy board has been constituted by the Great
Powers in conjunction with the Chinese authorities to improve
navigation in the river ; the largest shipping of the present
day not being able to get up to Shanghai. Sir Robert Hart
once predicted the ruin of Shanghai, owing to the silting up of
the river.
The innumerable waterways of the province, partly natural
and partly improved by the Chinese, and which form the roads
of the province, are due to this sedimentary origin of the
district.
Physical Features
The visitor to Shanghai cannot be refreshed by the sight of
mountains. The great plain stretches to the Tahu (lake) on
the west; the Yangtsze on the north, say 150 by 100 miles,
broken only by a few rocky hills — " The Hills," 20 miles west
of Shanghai, which were once islands in the sea.
The whole plain is cultivated like a garden. It is divided
into an infinite number of small holdings, which the patient
farmer makes yield the utmost. Travelling is mostly done by
boat, though there are footpaths suitable for foot-passengers
and the native wheel-barrow. All sub-tropical products thrive,
as do those of the warmer parts of the temperate zone ; those
of the strictly temperate zone do grow, but mature too quickly.
Large crops of wheat and rape are harvested in May ; the
rapidity of their growth in April is incredible. Cotton and
rice are planted immediately, and harvested in autumn, the
network of canals affording abundance of water, which is
pumped up into the fields by water-wheels, driven either by
the ugly but strong water-buffalo, or by the legs of men and
women. To see them for hours together on the embankments
treading the paddles which raise the water is one of the sights
of China.
Among the cotton, beans are sown. They manage to thrive
196
Physical Features
even in winter, and are ready for gathering in spring. Around
Soochow are vast acreages of lily-ponds. There are small
mulberry plantations, but the systematic culture of the silk-
worm starts farther north, by Soochow, and west.
Of vegetables, the name is legion — egg-plants, chillies,
sweet potatoes, melons of many sorts (July), cucumbers,
cabbage, asparagus, carrots, and turnips. Kobe and other
native vegetables grow luxuriantly, and may be had nearly all
the year round. European fruits do not thrive so well, ripening
too quickly ; the weather is so glorious in May that flowers
and fruits rush out at once. But strawberries are steadily
improving in quality ; raspberries are beginning to be culti-
vated ; first-rate cherries grow on the Tahu ; but apples and
pears are hard and have no flavour. Of excellent fruit, how-
ever, there is plenty. Shanghai peaches are famous, especially
a flattened variety with a deep sulcus in the centre ; beboes, a
golden-skinned fruit from a kind of laurel (in May) are good ;
melons are excellent ; Shanghai persimmons are, I have heard
it said, worth coming from the States to taste. There are
plums, "Chinese dates" (which Wells Williams says are a kind
of jujube-plum), lichees, bananas, mangoes, oranges from the
south, and grapes from Chefoo. There is probably no place
in the world so richly supplied with fruit as Shanghai.
Trees are not large. All old ones seem to have been de-
stroyed by the Taipings. The bamboo grows everywhere :
each village has its grove. There are species of elm, pine,
and willow (the true Babylonian, according to Wells Williams).
Every species of flower thrives. If the visitor is dis-
appointed at not seeing more strange varieties, he must
remember that China has been ransacked for flowers, and that
many of those he was familiar with at home are really natives
of China — the primula, for instance. The tea-rose and climb-
ing geranium were first found in this district. In May,
spring, summer, and even autumn flowers burst out together in
the first glow of the summer sun — pansies, violets, golden-rod,
coxcombs, tulips, geraniums, hyacinths, forget-me-nots ; even
dahlias forget the proper order of their appearing, and bloom
together with the daisy.
197
Meteorology
Visitors to Shanghai will find the weather tropical, temperate,
or frosty, and even bitterly cold, according to the season at
which they arrive. Generally speaking, the climate may be
described, in the words of the Health Officer, as " one-third of
the year tropical ; two-thirds temperate." That is and must be
a good climate. There are two drawbacks : the great range
of temperature, occasionally up to 40 in a day, the mean
daily range for the year being 18 ; and the damp nature
of the climate, the average degree of saturation for the year
being 82 out of a possible 100. As compensation, there is
almost continuous brilliant sunshine, even in the coldest season ;
it is this that is so much missed by the residents who return
home. Three dull days together are rare. The statistics for
1901 give a fair idea of the climate. They are taken from
the Municipal Report. Barometer, mean, for the year, 3003
inches. Thermometer (Fahr.) : mean, 5 8° 2' ; first quarter,
40'2 ; second quarter, 63'8°; third quarter, 76.2°- fourth
quarter, 52 '5° The rainfall for the last twenty years has
averaged 4S'3 in. per annum. In 1901 it was 37'45 m - It is
very unevenly distributed. In 1901 there fell 377 in. in the first
quarter; I3's8 in. in the second; i4'95 m - m the third; 5T5
in. in the fourth. It will be seen that most of the rain falls in
the summer. The visitor need not be alarmed at the amount,
which is much greater than England, a reputed wet climate.
In Shanghai, when it rains, it rains heavily : it is either wet or
fine; there are no chance showers. Brilliant sunshine is the
rule. Hail seldom fails ; thunderstorms are not so frequent or
severe as might be expected. But little snow falls; there is.
usually one slight fall in December or January, about Chinese
New Year. Frost usually runs from 5 to io° Fahr. in December
and January. According to the " Hong List," the coldest
weather known was on January 15th, 1893, when 24 of frost
were registered. Taking the months throughout the year, the
climatic conditions to be expected are as follows, starting with
July : July, August, and half of September are tropical ; the
thermometer may rise to 98 , but not every year, and it does
198
Health of Shanghai
not remain steadily very hot. Rains and typhoons moderate
the heat. From the middle of September to December and
January, and occasionally to March, there is the most delightful
weather in the world, " set fair," ' brilliantly sunny, growing
progressively cooler till January closes. February and March
are changeable, with rain, and some hot days in March.
April is equivalent to an English May. May and June are
delightful months ; the rain and heat make vegetation luxuriate
and run riot out of sheer exuberance of vitality. A great deal
of sickness is attributed to the climate which can easily be
accounted for other ways.
Health
Although semi-tropical, Shanghai is a healthy place. The
drainage is excellent, in spite of the fact that it is on the
sea level. At the census in 1900 the "foreign population was
6,777, and consisted of 3,181 men, 1,776 women, and 1,817
children." The foreign shipping population, which numbered
1,253, was not included. The foreign houses numbered 1,600 ;
the native houses, 49,000. The present foreign population is
over 7,000.; native population, 350,000. The total area within
municipal limits is 5,618 acres, or 8| square miles; the
density of population per acre, 63^5 persons. In 1901 the
death rate was: Foreign, i8'o3 per 1,000 (zymotic, 2 - 86 per
1,000); native, is'oi per 1,000. Allowing for the fallacy of
small numbers, allowing also for the fact that there are no very
poor in Shanghai, and also for the fact that some few sick and
old people leave for home, this rate is a remarkable one, and
clearly disproves the alleged unhealthiness of Shanghai.
Including the shipping population and non-residents, the rate
was only 2i - 9 per 1,000 in 1901. The chief causes of death
in that year were tuberculosis and alcoholism. Malaria is of
a "very mild type, and is decreasing. Typhoid, though more
prevalent than in England, is of a milder type" (Municipal
Council Report, 1902).
Cholera need not be seriously feared. There was an out-
break in 1902, but not a case from 1897 to 1902. In 1896
199
The Native City
there were 10 cases ; in 1895 there were 20. Of the total
128 deaths in 1901, 30 per cent, were of persons from
50 to 80 years of age.
Health Precautions to be taken. — Drinking water should be
boiled and filtered. All milk should be boiled. No un-
cooked vegetables should be eaten. Avoid chills : always be
too warmly clad rather than too lightly. If damp with per-
spiration, change. A cholera belt is advisable, though many
dispense with it. The less alcohol the better. A sun hat is
indispensable in the hot weather, say from the middle of June
to the middle of September. Too much exercise is not good
in the hot weather ; the less the better in the extreme heat.
Chills caught on returning from tennis" parties have killed more
than cholera.
Shanghai Native City
The voluminous history of Shanghai informs us that the
site of Shanghai was originally occupied by five villages —
Whasing, Shunshen, Kochong, Singkium, Kaimi ; that the
first emperor of the Yuen dynasty (a.d. 1291) established
a magistrate here, united the villages, and called the place
Zaunghe (Shanghai), " on the sea." The city, however,
existed long before this. Mr. S. T. Laisun, in the " Account
of the Jubilee of Shanghai" {Daily News Office), 1893, gives
the following account of its origin : —
"About 304 B.C., in the days of the Fighting Kingdoms,
Hwang Shieh was the chief preceptor of Yung Yuan, heir-
apparent to the throne of Ts'u (Hunan, Hupeh, Kiangsi,
Anhuei, and Kiangsu). In that year the armies of Ts'u were
defeated by those of Tsin under General Peh Chi. The King
of Ts'u was so frightened that he sent his son and Hwang
Shieh as hostages to the court of Tsin (in the west), where
they remained sixteen years. News came that the King of
Ts'u was ill. Hwang Shieh managed to get the young prince
smuggled out of prison and out of the kingdom of Tsin
disguised as a charioteer, he himself remaining behind, declar-
ing that the 'oung prince was ill. In three weeks' time, when
Early Visits of Foreigners
the prince had had time to reach home and secure the throne
in case of his father's death, Hwang Shieh informed the angry
King of Tsin-what he had done. The king was for killing
him, as was likely ; but by the influence of the prime minister
he was released, and returned to Ts'u, where the prince, now
on the throne, received him with open arms, and made him
governor of Soochow (founded two hundred years before),
Chingkiang, and Sungkiang. He was struck by the advan-
tageousness of the site of Shanghai, and founded the city.
" It early became famous for its cottons and gauzes and as
a trading place, but was not made a walled city until the year
a.d. 1554 (thirty-second year of the Ming Emperor Kia
Tsing), after having suffered severely for a hundred years from
Japanese pirates. Nothing of great historical importance has
happened at Shanghai. The Red Head rebellion happened
shortly before foreigners appeared on the scene. One Sian
Keun Tsz, ' a well-known loafer,' a ' mean fellow of the baser
sort,' got up this rebellion, killed the magistrate, and burned
much of the city, making the Woo Sing Ding, the ' Willow-
pattern Tea-house,' his headquarters. This was in 1826. He
was captured, and had his eyes taken out."
Shanghai is in the foo or prefecture of Sungkiang ; it is
one of the eight hsien or districts into which that prefecture
is divided. The district includes about 200 square miles.
Shanghai Foreign Settlement
Early Visits of Foreigners
The commercial advantages of Shanghai were not very
early perceived by foreigners, the East India Company con-
fining its attentions to Canton. But Mr. F. Pigou, of the
Company's factory at Canton, reported favourably on it in
1756. The next to visit it were Mr. Lindsay and Dr. Gutzlaff
(after whom the famous island with its signal station, eight
hours from Shanghai, is named). This was in 1832. "They
gave a glowing account of its commercial possibility, and were
much struck with the forest of hundreds of junks' masts on
the river."
Conquest of Shanghai
Conquest of Shanghai
The Foreign Settlement was the result of the war declared
by Great Britain against China in 1839, on tne conclusion of
the military operations in the south, including the taking of
Hongkong in 1841. The British fleet took Amoy, the
Chusans, and Ningpo ; and on June 16th, 1842, Sir William
Parker, the British admiral, with Sir Hugh Gough, the
commander of the military forces, took Woosung, capturing
134 guns, also taking Paoshan, a little walled city three miles
up the Yangtsze side. After a survey of the river, on the 17th
Lieutenant-Colonel Montgomery led a force of 1,000 men
inland from Woosung and advanced on Shanghai, the ships
following up the river. A few shots were fired at the invaders
from a fort standing on the site of the present British Con-
sulate, but no harm was done, and the city was found deserted,
the inhabitants in the act of scurrying away like ants, carrying,
as many of their belongings away with them as they could.
Those who are interested in the story of the capture of
Shanghai ought to read Captain W. H. Hall's book " The
Nemesis in China " (published 1848). The Nemesis was the
first steam war-vessel (120 h.-p.) that ever visited the Far
East. Some particulars given are : —
" Two hundred and fifty guns were taken at Woosung and
Paoshan, one an old Spanish gun. The troops engaged were
1,000 men — the 18th, 49th, and 55th regiments, with the
Madras Horse artillery, sappers, and miners. Within sight of
the city on the same side of the river was a long, well-con-
structed battery, which opened fire on the North Star, but did
no damage." On reaching the north gate of the city, there
appeared to be no preparations made for resistance, and the
only two guns mounted appeared to be harmless enough ; in
fact, there was none at the gate, and two or three of our men,
having contrived to get over the wall, opened the gate. We
are glad to hear that " very little plunder or ' loot ' was taken,"
only a few curios. " The vast number of large trading junks
surprised every one ; both banks of the river were completely
202
Founding of the Foreign Settlement
lined with them. Several junks were on the stocks — one with
a mainmast n feet 6 inches in circumference, a little above
the deck, and 141 feet long. The foreigners were well re-
ceived by the people, who soon returned to the city. Stores
were taken ; 68 guns were captured at Shanghai : 1 7 were of
copper, newly cast; 56 were taken in the battery. Altogether
j 71 were taken. The ransom for Shanghai paid by the Chinese
was $300,000."
Founding of the Foreign Settlement
After the arrival of Sir Henry Pottinger on the conclusion of
peace, the formation of a foreign settlement was decided on.
Its bounds were the Yang-king-pang Creek on the south, the
Whangpoo on the east, the present Peking Road on the north.
It must be clearly understood that Shanghai has been from the
beginning a settlement, not a possession. The British Govern-
ment annexed Hongkong, which became British territory,
and subject to British law. The land on which the Foreign
Settlement of Shanghai was created was, on the other hand,
only leased to the British Government. That is proved by the
fact that all the landowners still pay ground rent to the Chinese
Government. For instance, in the Municipal Council's Report
for 1902 (p. 455) there is an item " Chinese Government
Ground Tax (for roads), Tls.372, 57." The Race Club pays about
Tls.500 ground tax. The existence of a Mixed Court in which
a Chinese magistrate presides is further conclusive proof as to
the political standing of Shanghai, and should prevent tourists
wondering why each foreigner here is under his own consular
jurisdiction. At 1 first Captain Balfour had no doubt intended
that the plot of ground marked out should, like Hongkong, be
British, but he was overruled.
In 1845 f° ur roa ds were laid out — the Consulate Road (now
Peking Road), Park Lane (Nanking Road), Ropewalk Road
(now Kiukiang Road), and Hankow Road. Land regulations
were drawn up in 1845, and the now world-renowed settlement
was fairly founded.
203
Early Days
Early Days
At first H.B.M.'s Consul was the governing authority. In
1844 a Committee of Roads and Jetties was formed. The
price of land on the Bund was only 50,000 to 60,000 cash
($50 to $60) a mow ; to-day it is at least $40,000. A raised
towing-path ran along the muddy bank of the river. " Most
of the Bund lots were taken up by 1850." There was no
bridge over the Yang-king-pang. The Soochow Creek was a
broad waterway. The mails were carried up from Woosung
by Chinese boys mounted on ponies, who raced across the
country to be in first.
Each hong stood in its own compound ; the heads of the
firms and the juniors having meals separate, in senior and
junior messes. Specimens of these old hongs may be seen in
Ward, Probst & Co.'s hong, 13, Nanking Road, and on the
right hand of the Pekin Road between the Szechuen and
Kiangsze Roads. The oldest existing hong is probably
that occupied by Mittag & Co., at the corner of Kiangse and
Siking Roads.
The Triads in Shanghai
No sooner had the Settlement got over its early troubles
than it was disturbed by the Triad rebels, who took Nanking
in 1853 and Shanghai on September 7th, Trade was para-
lysed ; it was impossible to collect the customs. The result
was that the British, U.S.A., and French Consuls appointed
commissioners to collect them (Mr. T. F. Wade, Mr. Lay, and
Mr. A. C. Smith). Both imperialists and rebels soon became
involved in difficulties with the foreigners : the imperialists for
attempting to loot rifles from Messrs Gibb, Livingston &
Co., and the rebel leader Lew for refusing satisfaction to the
French Consul for the murder of a catechist.
Our One Battle
Thus it came about that on April 4th, 1854, the foreigners
took the field against the imperialists. The force consisted of
204
The Taipings
the Shanghai Volunteers (led by Mr. T. F. Wade, H.M. Vice-
Consul), men of H.M.S. Encounter and Grecian and U.S.A.
Plymouth, the U.S.A. Consul accompanying his men. The
encounter took place on ground now densely covered with
houses, where the Fokien Road now is and the Rou Touranne.
The volunteers had three men wounded, two dying. The
Encounter and the Grecian had each three men wounded, and
the Plymouth one killed and four wounded. This was the
battle of Muddy Flat. The last Shanghai resident who fought
in it was Mr. Barnes Dallas, who died in 1897. (I am informed
that there are still — a.d. 1904 — two gentlemen in London
who took part in the fight.)
This affair of the Triads had momentous consequences ; in
fact, it changed the whole character of the Settlement. Some
twenty thousand Chinese flocked into the Foreign Settlement for
safety, and foreign landowners built houses for them. Instead
of being a quiet reserve for foreigners, the Settlement became
' the home of natives and foreigners intermixed, giving Shanghai
a unique position among the treaty ports of the East.
The Taipings
In i860 Soochow fell into the hands of the Taiping rebels.
On January 12th, 1862, the rebels appeared before Shanghai
native city. Barricades has been erected along the Honan
Road, from which English and Indian troops fired on them,
the French acting against them from the city wall. The
foreigners had been able to complete their defences owing to
an extraordinary fifty-eight hour snowstorm, which began on
January 28th. The rebels advanced along the line of what
is now the Bubbling Well Road. There was great excitement
at this time, and trade was seriously affected. The Taiping
trouble had the effect of attracting to Shanghai adventurers
of all nations. It was to prevent them from exercising any
power by votes that the municipal franchise was fixed so high
as $50 a month. It was then that Shanghai received the
name of " A Sink of Iniquity '' which it hardly deserved then,
and certainly does not now.
205
1860-1903
The Sixties
The rebels were defeated and driven away in 1863, upon
which a period of great and even inflated prosperity set in,
consequent on the opening of the Yangtsze to trade. Most of
the principal public institutions were founded at this time ;
municipal government was adjusted at last ; immense fortunes
were made by land speculation. It is not surprising that
there was a relapse at the end of this decade.
1870 to the Present Time
From this time Shanghai has exhibited a picture of steady
progress, exciting events of a public nature being few. The
foreign population "at each quinquennial period since 1870
shows the following expansion : 1,666, 1,673, 2,197, 3,673,
3,821, 4,684, 6,774." The enormous increase between 1895
and 1900 is remarkable. The native population shows a
similar growth since 1870: 75,000, 96,000, 108,000, 168,000,
241,000, 345,000. It is difficult to realise how small Shanghai
was, even in 1870, compared with to-day. There were no
houses west of Museum Road : nearly all the upper parts of
the Settlement west of the Honan Road were unoccupied.
Hongkew had but few inhabitants.
In 1874, on May 3rd, there were riots in the French Settle-
ment, owing to an attempt to interfere with the " Ningpo Joss-
house.'' Eight natives were killed. In 1880 Prince Henrich
of Prussia, the Duke of Genoa, and General Gordon visited
Shanghai. In 1887 the Jubilee of Queen Victoria was
celebrated with great splendour, and in 1893 the jubilee of
the founding of the Settlement.
On April 5th, 1897, occurred the Wheelbarrow Riot, owing
to a proposal to increase the licence fees, the Council
surrendering to the coolies. An indignation meeting was
held condemning the Council, upon which that body
resigned.
In 1898 there were renewed riots on the French Concession
206
The American Settlement
■over the Ningpo Joss-house. In 1899 the Settlement was
■enlarged to its present area ; and in 1900 the Boxer outbreak
created much excitement and even some alarm. Foreigners
crowded into Shanghai from all parts of China, while at the
same time there was an immense exodus of Chinese. The
alarm was natural, owing to the uncertainty as to whether the
outbreak would extend to mid-China, and the almost total and
unusual absence of foreign ships-of-war at the time. With the
advent of foreign troops alarm disappeared. The troops were
removed in January, 1903. There is no doubt that the Boxer
outbreak had for its consequence the thorough advertising of
Shanghai throughout the world, so that the next quinquennial
census will show a vaster increase of population than any
preceding one.
The American Settlement
The following is the account given by Maclellan in his
<; Story of Shanghai " of the origin of this settlement : —
"In December of 1863, Hongkew, or the American
Settlement, was formally incorporated with the so-called British
Settlement. Its residents were to pay half the cost of policing
it, that being considered a fair proportion, as much of the
■expenditure under that head was owing to the large number of
•sailors who lived in the district. It does not appear that
the United States ever received any concession of what is
called the American Settlement, or that it was specially set
.apart for citizens of that country. No negotiations about the
settlement or lands in Hongkew ever took place between the
Government of the United States and the Chinese authorities.
The treaty between China and the United States gave citizens
of the latter the same right to acquire lands for residence and
other purposes as was given under the British and French
treaties, and this was made use of probably about 1850. Some
years afterwards the United States Consulate was established
.in Hongkew, and an American church and mission houses were
..built there, and hence the district became generally known as
207
The French Settlement
the American Settlement. The boundaries were settled in
1862 by Mr. Seward, U.S.A. Consul, as follows : " The Soochow
Creek from a point opposite the entrance of the Defence Canal
to the Huangpu River ; thence at low-water mark to the mouth
of the creek, entering the Huangpu near the lower limit of the
anchorage called the Yangtszepu, westward three li along
the line of that creek, thence in a straight line to the point
of beginning."
For a long time Hongkew was but sparsely populated, the
tide covering parts of Broadway in the sixties.
The French Settlement
{"Concession Franfaise")
The French who took part with the British in the conquest
of Shanghai had a settlement granted to them in June, 1849,
by " Luh, intendant of Soochow and the viceroy of the Two
Kwangs," with the usual rights to French subjects. The
U.S.A. Consul protested against the French having a separate
settlement.
The district allotted to France is contiguous to the wall of
the native city. It is bounded on the east by the Whangpoo,
on the west by the temple of the god of war, on the north
by the Yang-king-pang Creek, and on the south by the native
city. The Settlement was enlarged westward in 1899.
History
The history of the French Settlement is very much the same
as that of the International Settlement, except that the French
have had more conflicts with the natives than the British and
Americans.
On May 3rd, 1874, owing to the making of two new roads
near the Ningpo Joss-house, the Chinese attacked the French in-
spector of roads and his family, and broke into the neighbouring
houses, throwing a lady missionary, Miss Mitchell, downstairs.
She only saved herself by crying out that she was not French.
Marines from a French gun-boat were landed, and eight
208
The French Settlement
Chinese were killed in the affair. For other conflicts over
that bone of contention the Ningpo Joss-house, see the
history of the International Settlement.
Government
The government is by a Municipal Council. It differs from
the council of the International Settlement in being more
under the control of the French Consul-General than the
International Settlement is under the control of the Consuls-
General of the Powers. For a long time its functions were
very uncertain, and in 1865 all the members resigned. The
present regulations governing it are dated April 14th, 1868,
when Vicomte Brenier de Montmorand was Consul-General.
The French Consul-General is ex-officio chairman, but he
generally delegates his power to a chairman selected by the
council, who must be a Frenchman. There are eight
councillors — four French and four other nationalities. The
Consul-General may suspend the council for a maximum period
of three months, but he must report his action at once to the
French Minister at Peking, the ultimate decision resting with
the French Government. The franchise is more varied and
is lower than that of the International Settlement. The
conditions conferring a right to vote for Frenchmen and
strangers over 2 1 years of age are : —
(1) To be a registered landowner in the settlement, whether
of French or other nationality.
(2) To pay an annual house-rent of 1,000 francs at least.
(3) To have lived within the settlement for three months, and
to prove an income of at least 4,000 francs a year.
The functions of the council are similar to those of the
council of the International Settlement. Various attempts have
been made to unite the two settlements, but all negotiations
have failed. The convenience of the public and economy
would both be served by the union. The objections have
always come from the French authorities.
209 14
The International Settlement
Mixed Court.
For Chinese there is a Mixed Court, as in the International
Settlement. The relation of the French magistrate to the
Chinese official is precisely the same, I am informed on the
best authority, as that of the foreign assessor and the Chinese
magistrate in the International Mixed Court. There is this
difference, however — the only languages employed in this
Mixed Court are French and Chinese, which is very ridiculous
and awkward, seeing that the one foreign language best known
to the Chinese is English.
Government of the "international" Settlement
The most casual visitor will be interested in a slight sketch
of the government of Shanghai. This is by means of various
enactments called the " Land Regulations." The first were
passed in 1845, an d were for British subjects only. In 1851
the Taotai issued a proclamation in which merchants of all
nations are permitted to build in the settlements.
New regulations were issued in 1854, in consequence of
the vast numbers of Chinese crowding into the Settlement,
contrary to the intention of the founders. The Municipal
Council was formed, and met for the first time on July 17th,
1854. The legal status of the council was questioned by
H.B.M.'s legal officers at Hongkong, with the result that for
many years the Council took legal action through the Consuls.
About 1863 local government was in great confusion, owing
to the question of the Chinese in the settlement, H.B.M.'s
Minister at Peking denying that the council had any right to
interfere between the Chinese in the settlement and the native
authorities ; doubt was thrown also on the right to tax Chinese
residents.
In 1866 a step forward was taken when the land renters
were consulted as to the framing of the new regulations.
These were issued in 1869 for the so-called " British Settle-
ment," with which the " American Settlement " had been
amalgamated in 1863. The French Consul-General claimed
The International Settlement
the right to vote on the regulations of the other settlements,
despite the fact that the French had framed regulations of
their own.
In 1882 fresh regulations were enacted by the Ministers of
the Treaty Powers in Peking somewhat curtailing the powers
of the council.
In 1898 new regulations, which are now in force, were
enacted. At the same time the hitherto so-called British
and American Settlements, by agreements among the Powers,
became what is known as the International Settlement, and had
its boundaries enlarged. It is, however, very doubtful whether
the British Government has actually relinquished its claim to
the old British Settlement.
The Council has charge of police, licensing, etc. It consists
of nine members elected annually. Householders paying
Tls. 50 per month rent have a vote. The annual meeting
of ratepayers is held in March. This is the final authority
for all expenditure.
In addition to the Municipal Council there is a large variety
of judicial authorities in Shanghai. Hardly any place in the
world has such a mixture of governments.
The Court of Consuls, established in 1869, enables persons
to sue the Municipal Council before it. It is also the inter-
mediary between the Municipal Council and the Foreign
Ministers at Peking.
The litigation of British subjects is amply provided for.
The Supreme Court, established in 1865, originally had
jurisdiction over British subjects in China and Japan; but
now of China only, since the cessation of exterritoriality in
the latter country. Sir Edmund Hornby was first Chief
Justice. This court is the court of appeal from the British
Consuls in China. The court-house is behind the British
Consulate buildings, of which it is part. It fronts Yuen-
ming-yuen Road. Sir H. S. Wilkinson is Chief Justice,
F. S. A. Bourne, Esq., Assistant Judge. There is also a
British police magistrate for petty cases. This court meets
in a room to the right after entering the main door of
H.B.M.'s Consulate.
211 15
Commerce of Shanghai
For all other nationalities the Consul-General or Consul is
the judicial authority.
For Chinese there is> the Mixed Court. This was established
in 1863 for the trial of Chinese in cases in which foreigners
are involved. The Chinese magistrate is assisted by foreign
assessors — one American, one British, one German — in turns.
The court-house was in the Nanking Road, but a new Mixed
Court-house was opened in 1899 on the North Chekiang Road.
The best approach to it is along the North Honan Road, and
up the Boone Road to the left. Visitors ought to see the
Mixed Court in session. The Chinese mandarin and foreign
assessor sit on a raised platform, the mandarin being assisted
in his' deliberations by numerous cups of tea. The prisoners
are brought in by yamen runners, and kneel before the
magistrate. The only native punishments inflicted are the
cangue (a wooden board round the neck of the culprit) and
bambooing and imprisonment. Those who desire to witness
this form of punishment may do so about 4 p.m.
Commerce
A few particulars as to the commerce of Shanghai may be
acceptable to the tourist. From the figures given, its title to
be called a "vast emporium" will be evident. Value will be
given in Haikwan taels. The Haikwan tael was in 1902
equivalent in English money to 2s. jd., American (gold)
to $o'63, French to 3-28 francs, German to 2-65 marks, in
Mexican dollars to $1-51, "at the average sight exchange
on London, New York, Paris, Berlin, Calcuttta, and Hong-
kong respectively for 1902." The picul is equivalent to
133^ lb. avoirdupois. The figures are from the Returns
of Trade issued by the Inspectorate-General of Customs
for 1902.
At the whole of the Treaty Ports of China the total revenue
collected was, in 1902, Haikwan Tls. 30,007,044; the value
of the net imports was Haikwan Tls. 315,363,905, and of
212
Commerce of Shanghai
the exports Haikwan Tls. 214,181,584. "Shipping entries
from foreign ports were 8,737 vessels, aggregating 7,224,000
tons ; coastwise entries were 25,678 vessels, making' 19,749,000
tons. The total tonnage, entries, and clearances was 53,990,000
tons; and of this total Great Britain contributed 50 per cent.;
China, 1 7 per cent. ; Japan, 14 per cent. ; Germany, 1 3 per cent. ;
France, i - 5o per cent.; Norway, 1-50 per cent. ; Russia and
America, 1 per cent."
The share of Shanghai in this commerce will be appreciated
from the following figures : The revenue collected by the
Customs at Shanghai was Haikwan Tls. 10,814,077,74, or 30
per cent, of the whole. The gross value of the foreign goods
imported was Haikwan Tls. 183,295,031, of which Haikwan
Tls. 182,179,795 was from foreign countries and Hongkong.
The value of goods re-exported was Haikwan Tls. 129,900,084,
mainly to the northern and Yangtsze ports, leaving the net
total foreign imports Haikwan Tls. 53,394,947. "The total
exports of local origin amount to Haikwan Tls. 76,832,103.
The gross value of the trade of the port was Haikwan
Tls. 346,122,864."
It is not possible to enter into details as to the articles of
commerce represented by these figures. The imports include
every species of goods. Cotton goods of all kinds were
valued in 1902 at Haikwan Tls. 127,545,309, and metals
at Haikwan Tls. 10,574,928, and sundries at Haikwan
Tls. 136,948,982. The exports include sesamum seed, bean-
cakes, beans, hides, oils, feathers, hemp, animal tallow, wool,
straw-braid, etc.
The visitor with time to spare might well walk along the
wharves, when he will gain a good idea of the immensity of
the trade of Shanghai. The wharves to visit are :
Japanese Wharf. Go along Whangpoo Road and turn to
the right down Woochang Road.
The Associated Wharves. Along the Broadway, and turn
down Keechong or Yuenfong Roads.
French Bund. Along the English Bund, and cross the
Yang-king-pang Creek.
A considerable manufacturing industry is carried on in
213
tJommeree of Shanghai
cotton spinning, silk filatures, feather cleaning, match making,
packing factories, paper making, flour milling. These in-
dustries, except the great packing establishments, are situated
along the Broadway and on the banks of the Soochow and
Hongkew Creeks. It is not worth while giving particulars,
as they are not open to the public. Those anxious to visit
them must apply to the managers of the various concerns, and
try their luck at getting permission.
214
INDEX
Actovs, Chinese, 18
Airing the Bird, 17
Alcock, Sir Rutherford,
3
Amateur Dramatic Club,
26, 182
American Association,
163
— Bible Society, 149
— Presbyterian Mission
Press, 27, 149
— Settlement, 60, 207
— University Club, 173
— Women's Literary
Association, 172
Anglo-Chinese College,
49
Aquarius Co., 64
Arsenal, 87
Asiatic Society, 171
Associations (see Clubs
and Societies) —
American Association
of China, 163
— Women, 172
British Colonials, 164
Chamber of Com-
merce, 173
China Association,
164
First Aid, 175
German, 163
Lancastrians, 165
Marine Engineers, 169
Mercantile Marine,
168
Associations (con-
tinued) —
Pilots, 174
St. George's, 163
Stockbrokers, 173
Swiss, 164
Young Men's Chris-
tian, 169
Astor House Hotel, 61
Avenue de Paul Brunat,
105
B
Baby Tower, 86
Balfour, Captain, 203
Bambooing, 57
Band, Town, 2, 15, 162
Banks, vii
Barometer, 198
Baseball, 190
Battle of Muddy Flat,
204
Beale, T. C. , 29
Beggars, 45, 88, 103, 114
Bell Tower, 88
Bible Societies —
American, 149
British, 149
Birds of China, 172
Boat-house, 26
Books and Maps, xi
Boone, Bishop, 39
Bore (Hangchow), 139
Bowling Alley, 13, 191
Boxers, 93, 207
Bridgman Home, 84,
147
British and Foreign Bible
Society, 149
— China Association,
r64
— Colonial Association,
164
— Consulate, 3
— Gaol, 17, 27
— Post Office, a, 27
— Settlement, 203, 211
Broadway, 60
Bubbling Well, 35
Road, 28
Buddha, 58, 66, 69, 104
Buddhist Hell, 67, 69
— Nunnery, 46, 58
Bund, Chinese, no
— French, 94
— The, 1
Burial, Chinese, 71
Butterfield & Swire, 95
Candareens, vi
Cangue, 16
Cantonese Tea Houses,
19
Carriages, xiv
Carter Road, 74
Cash, vi
Cathedral, Holy Trinity,
24. 143
— Tung-ka-doo, 108
Catty, vii
21S
Index
Cemeteries —
i. Chinese —
Cantonese, 72, 74
Nanking, 71
NienTsungDien, 86
Soochow, 70, 73
u. Foreign —
Bubbling Well, 34
Japanese, 74
Jewish, 32
Pah-sin-jao, 18, 104
Parsee, 20
Shantung Road, 21
Census, 199
Central Hotel, viii
Cents, vi, vii
Chamber of Commerce,
173
Chang Su Ho's Gardens,
33. 155
Chartered Bank of India,
10
Chiangwan, 133
China Association, 164
— Branch, R.A.S. , 171
— Inland Mission, 50,
148
— Merchants S.N. Co.,
10 , 106
— Ponies, 77, 181
— Tract Society, 149
Chinese Actors, 18
— Bund, 109
— Bureau of Foreign
Affairs, 33
— Christian Knowledge
Society, 149
— Festivals, 156
— Labour, 66
Chinkiang, 141
Cholera, 199
Chow, General, 125
Chow-chow Water, *
Churches —
Baptist, 144
Cathedral, 24, 143
Church of our
Saviour, 61, 144
— the Sacred Heart,
So, 144
Church Es(continued) —
German, 64, 144
Moore Memorial, 17
Mosque, 144
St. Joseph's, 97, 144
Seaman's Mission, 144
Synagogue, 27
Tung-ka-doo Cathe-
dral, 108
Union Church, 25,
143
City God, 119
— Moat, 101
— Native, 112
— Walls, in, 113, 124
Clubs (see Associations
and Societies) —
Amateur Dramatic,
182
American University,
*73
Baseball, 190
Bowling Alley, 13, 191
Concordia, 166
Country, 32, 33, 167
Cricket, 30, 177
Customs, 170
Drag Hunt, 189
Football, 188
French Amateur Dra-
matic, 182
German Garden, 171
— Tennis Club. 31
Golf, 30, 183
Gun, 190
Hockey, 191
Masonic, 168
Midget Sailing, 188
Paper Hunt, 184
Polo, 189
Portuguez, 171
Race, 30, 31, 179
Recreation, 30, 188
Recreio, 192
Rowing, 26, 182
Shanghai, 10, 165
Smoking Concert, 192
Sportsman's Gun, 190
Swimming Bath, 30,
190
Clubs (continued) —
Tennis, 191
University (U.S.A.),
173
Volunteer, 15, 171
Yacht Club, 185
Young Men'sChristian
Association, 169
Coffee Tavern, 175
Coinage, Bad, vi
Commerce, 213
Committee of Roads and
Jetties, 204
Concordia Club, 166
Concrete Ware Yard, 51
Confucian Temple, 121,
122
Confucius, 122
Consular Flats, 3
Consuls, Consulates:
American, x, 64
Austrian, x, 64
Belgian, a
British, x, 3
Danish, x
Dutch, x
French, x, 94
German, x, 40, 64
Italian, a
Japanese, x, 64
Portuguese, x
Russian, x
Spanish, x
Swedish, a
Cotton, 66, 196
— Mills, 65
Country Club, 32, 33,
167
Courts—
Consuls, 211
French Mixed, 209
Mixed, 52, 57, 203
211
Police (British), 211
Supreme (British), 211
Creeks—
City, 83, 101
Defence, 17, 28
Hongkew, 43
Sicca wei, 77
Index
Creeks [continued) —
Soochow, 42, 74, 182,
195
Yang-king-pang, 11,
94
Crematorium, 34
Cricket Club, 30, 177
Crime, 160
Cross-country Riding,
194
Cunningham, Ed., 29
Curios, 20, 103, 115,
xviii
Custom House, 8
Customs Club, 170
— Imperial Maritime,
204, 212
— Signal Station, 9, 130
Dai Waung Miao, 16,
27, 71
Daily News Offices, 8
Dallas, Barnes, 205
Dead, Feast of, 157
Death Rate, 199
Defence Creek, 17, 28
Dents, 6
Deutsch - Asiatische
Bank, 8
Deutsche Vereinigung,
163
Deutscher Concert
Verein, 173
— Gartenclub, 171
— Gesangverein, 173
Drag-Hunt, 189
Dragon Boat Festival,
158
Drama, 20
Dramatic Clubs, 182
Docks, 64
Dollar, vii
Drill Hall, 15
Drop Nets, 131
Drum Tower, 88
Du Bose, Rev. H. C,
S3, 89, 119, 121,
128, 139
Early Visits of Foreign-
ers, 201
Earth God, 90
" East of Asia," 78
Education (see Schools
and Missions)
Eight Immortals, 56
Electric Lighting, 51,
100
Engineers and Archi-
tects, 174
European Stores, xvii
Ever- Victorious Army,
5
Excursions, 132
Exports, 212
Farming, 196
Farnham, Boyd & Co.,
64, 130
Fathers of the Settle-
ment, 29
Fearon's, 6
Feasts, Chinese—
Chinese New Year,
Dai Wong, 157
Dragon Boat, 131, 158
Lanterns, 157
Mid-Autumn, 158
Tsing Ming, 157
FSng-shui, 93
Feng-wan-shan, 142
Fire Alarm Stations,
50, 159, 161
— Brigade, 161
— God, 9
— Stations, Central, 22
French, 99
Fireworks, 33
First Aid, 175
Fish, Sacred, 90
Florence Crittenton
Home, 175
Foochow Road, 18
Football, 188
Fortune Tellers, 100
Four Heavenly Kings,
88
Freemasonry, 151
French Amateur Dra-
matic Society, 182
— Bund, 9S
— Consulate, 94
— Settlement, 208
— Town Hall, 99
Fruits, 42, 197
Game, 193
Gaol (British), 17
Garden Bridge, ±, 41, 60
Gaedens —
Cantonese, 54.
Chang Su Ho's, 33,
155
Chinese, 26, ri6, 155
Public, 3, 153
Yu Yuen, 34, 155
Gas Works, 27
Gates of the City —
East, 96, 123, 127
New North, 103, 113
North, 103, 105, 113,
129
South, in
West, 84, in
German Association, 163
— Concert Club, 173
— Consulate, x, 40, 64
— Garden Club, 171
— Gesangverein, 173
— Literary Club, 173
Gods —
Amida, 47
Ananda, 89
Buddha, 37, 46, 58, 67,
69, 89, 104
Buddha of Three Ages,
46
Ching Tsiang Ching,
S3
City, 119
217
Index
Gods i
Earth, go, 127
Eight Immortals, 56,
126
Fire, 9
Four Heavenly Kings,
88
Goddess of Heaven,
69
Infernal Regions, 58
Kitchen, 127
Kwanyin, 14, 47, 53,
58, 69, 91
Liu Tsiang Ching, 53
Lohans, 47, 90, 91
Medicine, 48, 126
Midoo, 14, 37, 46, 69,
88, 115
Mo-san, 85
O-mi-doo, 47
Scholars, 122
Shang-Ti, 122
Snakes, 119
Taoist Trinity, 115
Three Brothers, 35
Three Pure Ones, 53,
59- "5
Thunder, 71, 84
Tien Waung Dien, 88
Wang Lo Yah, 36
War, 55, 59, 126
Warrior of Heaven,
84
Waydoo, 14, 46, 69,
88, 115
Wealth, 55
Wenchang, 117
Zung Wong 1 , 126
Golf, 30, 183
Gough, Sir H. , 135, 202
Government of Shang-
hai, 210
Graves, 72
Guides, 106, 112
Guild Houses—
Cantonese, no
Hwuy-chau, 86
Paw Aye Dong, 15
Shanse Bankers, 54
Swatow, 109
Guild House (con-
tinued) —
Timber Merchants,
107, 108
Guard Houses, 113, 115
Gun Club, 190
Gutzlaff, Dr., 201
Haining, 139
Han Dynasty, 35
Hangchow, 138
— Bore, r39
Hankow Road, 9, 203
Health, 199
— Offices, 23
— Precautions, 200
Helvetia (Club),. 164
Hills, The, 142, 196
Hockey Club, 191
Holidays, viii, 156
Honan Road Bridge, 43
Hongkew —
Descriptive, 41
General, 41, 207
Market, 45, 46, 50
Park, 155
Hongkong and Shanghai
Bank, 9
Horses (Riding, etc.),
xiv, 194
Hospitals —
Chinese, 21
General, 46
Isolation, 51
Kwang Zan Ee Yuen,
47
Margaret Williamson,
86, 147
St. Luke's, 50, 148
Shantung Road, 21
Victoria Nursing
Home, 49
Hotels, viii
Houseboat Excursions,
13 6 . r 3 8
Houseboats, 136
Huangpu (see Whang-
poo)
Hung-jao Road, 38, 75,
80
Ice-houses, 57
Imports, 212
Incense Burners, xix
Indian Wares, xix
Inner Bailey, 114
International Settlement,
210
Irrigation, 196
Japanese Curios, xix
Jardine's, 6
Jessfield, 30, 148
— Road, 38, 76
Jesuits, 76, 77
Jinrickshaws, xiii
Joo-i, 86
Junks, in
K
Kading, 138
Kelly & Walsh, Ltd., 10
Kiangnan Arsenal, 87
Kwang Zan Ee Yuen,
47
Kwangfoo, 141
Kwangti, 121
Kwanyin, 14, 47, 53, 58
91
Labour, Chinese, 66
Lancastrians, 165
Land Regulations, 3,
203, 210
218
Index
Lanterns, Feast of, 157
Laotsze, 53
Library, Public, 155
Likin Station, 76
Lions, Stone, 52
Litterarischer Abend,
173
Little, R. W., 3
Livery Stables, xiv
Lockhart, Dr., 21
Lohans, 47
London Missionary
Society, 20, 145
Loong-fei Bridge, 28
Loongwha Pagoda, 82,
88, 92
Louza, 16
— Police Station, 16
Love Lane, 33
Lyceum Theatre, 26,
152
Macduff, N. C. R., 29
Mace, vi
Maclellan, J. W. , 3, 24
McTyere Home, 17
Mail Steamers, xvi
— Signals, 130
Malaria, 199
Maloo, 28
Margary, Augustus Ray-
mond, 2
Marine Engineers'
Institute, 13, 169
Markets—
Central, 15
Hongkew, 45, 50
Masonic Hall, 5, 168
Masonry, 151, 168
Medhurst, Dr., 21, 25,
145
Medicine God, 48
Mercantile Marine
Officers' Associa-
tion, 168
Meteorology of Shang-
hai, 198
Mexican Dollar, vi
Mid-Autumn Festival,
158
Midget Sailing Club, 188
Midoo, 14, 37, 46, 69,
88, irs
Mills —
Cotton, 65
Flour, 67, 75, 214
Missions —
Baptist, Seventh Day
- (U.S.A.), 77, 147
—Southern (U.S.A.),
147
Catholic (see Sicca-
wei), 77, 95, 148
China Inland Mission,
50, 148
Church Missionary
Society, 146
Foreign Christian
(U.S.A.), 147
London Missionary
Society, 20, T45
Methodist, Southern
(U.S.A.), 49. 83.
146, 149
Presbyterian, Northern
(U.S.A.), 146, 149
Protestant Episcopal
(U.S.A.), 39, 148
Women's Union, 86,
147
Mixed Court, 52, 57,
203, 211
French, 210
Moat, City, 10 1
Monastery, 88
Money, v
Monks, 88, 92
Monuments —
Admiral Protet, 99
litis, 6
Margary, 2
Morgan, Win. de, and
R. Burn Anderson,
5
Parkes, Sir Harry, 7
Taiping Officers, 5
Widow's, 31
219
Mortuaries,
Chinese —
Cantonese, 71
Nanking, 71
Ningpo, 71
Soochow, 73
Mosque, 144
Motu, 140
Mow, vii
Muddy Flat, Battle of,
205
Muirhead, Dr., 146
Mulberries, 197
Municipal Council, 210
— Offices, 23
— Slaughter Houses, 51
Museum, 26
Nanking Road, 12, 203
Nantao, 106
Nanyang College, 81
Native City, ir2
Walls, 124
— Stores, xix
Naziang, 138
"Nemesis in China,''
58, 202
New Year (Chinese), 156
Newspapers, xii
Ningpo Joss-house, 83,
206, 208
— People, 83
— Wood-carving, xx
Nippon Yusen Kaisha,
64
Nursing Home, 49
Observatory, 80
Opium Hulks, 7
— Shops, 98
15*
Index
Pa Sien, 56
Pagoda, 82, 93
Pah-sin-jao, 18
Pailow, 87, 133
Paosan, 134, 135, 202
Paper Hunt, 184
— • Money, vi
Parent, Honouring, 93
Parker, Dr. A. P. , 92
Parkes, Sir Harry, 7
Parks, 153, 155
Parsee Cemetery, 20
Paw Aye Dong, 15
— Tuck Aye, 46
Pawnshops, Chinese, 43
Peach Orchards, 87, 123
Peaches, 197
Peking Road, 27
Philanthropy, 174
Photographic Materials,
xviii
— ■ Society, Amateur, 172
— Subjects, 41, 42, 43,
77, 84, 100, 103, 116,
127
Picul, vii
Pidgin-English, i
Pilots, 174
Point, The, 67
Police, 160
— Court, H.B.M. Con-
sular, 4
Police Stations—
Central, 22
Hongkew, 50
Louza, 16
Yangtszepoo, 66
Polo, 189
Ponies, China, 181
Pootung, 129
— Hotel, 129, 131
Population, 206
— Native City, 113
Portuguez Club, 171
Post Offices, a
— Boats, 2
Press, Mission, 27, 149
Priests, 89
Prisoners, 16
Procession, Dai Wong,
157
Protet, Admiral, 99
Public Band, 2, 15, 162
— Gardens, 3, 153
Quai de France, 96
— de Keen Le Yuen, 94
— de la Breche, 101
— des Fosses, 96, 101
Queen of Heaven, Tem-
ple of, 52
Race Club, 30, 31
Races, 180
Racing Records, 181
Railway Station, 57, 132
Railways, 132
Rain, 198
Rape Harvest, 196
Rebels —
Taipings, 205
Triads, 204
Recreation Club, 31
— Fund, 3, 28, 176
— Ground, 30, 154, 177
New, 133, 154
Recreio Club, 192
Red Joss-house, 67
Religions of China, 89
Restaurants, ix
Ricci, Father, 78
'Rickshaws, xiii
Riding, 194
Rifle Association, 192
— Butts, 57, 58, 133
Roads—
Avenue de Paul
Brunat, 105
Broadway, 60
Bubbling Well, 28
Canton, 20
Carter, 74
Roads {continued) —
Chinese Bund, 109
Fokien, 20
Foochow, 18, 20
French Bund, 95
— Siccawei, 77, 105
Haining, 46
Hankow, 9, 203
Honan, 20
Hnng-jao, 38, 76, 80
Hupeh, 20, 23
Jessfield Road, 38, 75
Kiangse Road, 26
Kiukiang, 20, 203
Nanking, 12, 203
Ningpo, 21
Quai de France, 106
Peking, 27
Robison, 39, 75
Rubicon, 38, 76
Rue de 1'Administra-
tion, 100
Rue de Palikao, 83
Rue du Consulat, 97
Rue Montauban, 97
Seward, 43, 68
Shanse, 20
Shantung, 20
Siccawei, 38, 77
Sinza, 70
Soochow, 25
Sungkiang, 20
Szechuen, 27
Yangtszepoo, 65
Rowing Club, 182
Russo-Chinese Bank, 8
Sailing, 185
Sailors' Home, 65, 173
St. Andrew's Society,
164
St. George's Farm, 35,
81
— — Society, 163
St. John's College, 39,
x 5°
Index
St. Joseph's Church, 97,
144
St. Patrick's Society, 165
Sampans, xv
Satin, xix, 30
Schools & Colleges —
Anglo-Chinese, 49,150
Cantonese, 151
Convent, 148
Ellis Kadoorie, 150
French Municipal, 150
German, 150
London Mission Col-
lege, 150
Nanyang College, 81
New Chinese Public,
151
Public, 49, 149
St. John's, 39, 150
Siccawei, 148
Thomas Hanbury, 50,
Scholastic Work, 79
Scott, Sir Gilbert, 25
Seamen's Mission, 175
Settlements —
American, 207
British, 203
International, 210
Seward, Mr. , 208
Seward Road, 43, 68
Shaftesbury House, 175
Shanghai —
American Settlement,
207
Area, 199
Census, 199
Club, io, 165
Commerce of, 212
Conquest of, 202
Death Rate, 199 '
Description of, 196
Founding of Foreign
Settlement, 203
Government, 209, 210
Health of, 199
History of, 19s
Legal Status, 203
Library, 155
Meteorology, 198
Shanghai (conttt.) —
Native City, 200
Physical Features, 196
Rainfall, 198
Riding Course, 28, 179
Trade of, 213
Shang-Ti, 122
Shanse Bankers' Guild,
54
Shantung Road, 20
Ship-building, 64
Shipping Communica-
tion, xv
Shooting, 193
Siccawei, 77, 80
— Road, 38, 81
Signal Station, 94
— ■ Station Customs, 130
— Shipping, 130
Sikhs, 29
Silk, xix
Sing Sing Aye, 58
— Zing Aye, 58
Sinza, 69
Slaughterhouse, 5r
Smoking Concert Club,
192
Societies ( see Clubs and
Associations) —
Benevolent, 175
China Branch R.A.S.,
171
Coffee Tavern, 175
Engineers' and Archi-
tects', 174
Florence Crittenton
Home, 175
German Choir Union,
173
— Concert, 173
— Literary, 173
Horticultural, 172
Photographic (Ama-
teur), 172
Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals, 174
Royal Asiatic, 171
St. Andrew's, 164
St. George's, 163
St. Patrick's, 165
Societies [conti nued) —
Society for the Diffu-
sion of Christian and
General Knowledge,
149
— Preventi on o f
Cruelty to Animals,
174
Union Church Literary
and Social Guild, 172
Soochow, 139
Soochow Creek, 42, 74,
183. 195
Spirit Wall, 91
Sportsman's Gun Club,
190
Stables, xiv
Steamers, xv
Stevenside, 86
Stores—
Foreign, xvii
Chinese, xviii
Su Family, 78
Swimming Bath, 30
Swiss Association, 164
Szechuen Road, 27
Ta Hoo, 139
Tael, vi
— Haikwan, 212
Taipings, 205
Tea-house (City), 116
Tea-houses, Cantonese,
IQ
Telegraph Offices, xi
Temples —
1. Foreign Settle-
ment —
Bubbling Well, 35
Buddhist Nunnery,
46, 58
Dai Waung Miao,
16, 27, 71
Dien Zaung Waung,
58.90
Foo Li Zen Yuen
104
Index
Temples (continued)—
God of Thunder, 84
Hwong Miao, 14
Kwangti, 55, 120
Li Tsoo Dien, 84
Loongwha, 81, 88
Pootu, 104
Queen of Heaven, 52
Silk Guild, 27
Sing Sing Aye, 58
Sing Zing Aye, 58
Tah Ying Pau Dien,
89
Tien Hon Kong, 52
Wan Doo Siensang,
47
Yangtszepoo, 66
Zen Sung Aye, 27
Zung Au Aye, 35
Zung Che Dong, 17
Zung Wong Miao,
119
2. Native City —
City (Chief), 116, 119
Confucius, 121, 122
Da Ching, 125
Emperor's, 123
FirstGate of Heaven,
128
God of War, 120
Goddess of Mercy,
127
King of Heaven, 88
Scholars, 117
Ta Vung Leu, 127
Three Em perors , 1 19
Tien Ih Koh, no
— Zung Dien, 122
TsungWooDay, 115
Vun Tsang Dien,
117
Theatres—
Lyceum, 26, 152
Native, 19
Temperature, 198
Tennis, 191
ThomasHanburySchool,
So, IS°
Thorburn, Wm. ( 29
Tien Hon Kong, 52, 6j
Tortures, 70 <
Town Band, 2, 15
— Hall, 15
— Hall, French, 99
Train, Soochow, 43
Triads, 204
Trinity Cathedral, 24
Tsing Ming Festival, 157
Tung-ka-doo Cathedral,
108
U
Union Church, 25, 143
— Church Literary Guild,
172
Unkaza, 39
Vegetables, 42, 197
Victoria Nursing Home,
49
Volunteer Club, 15, 171
Volunteers, 159, 205
W
Walls of City, in, 124
Wan Doo Siensang, 47
Warrior of Heaven, 84
Water Tower, 26
— Tower, French, 96,
106
Water-wheels, 130, 196
Waterworks, 26, 66
— French, 96
Weather, 198
Weights and Measures,
vii
Wenchang, 117
Whangpoo, 135, 196, 208
Wharves, 213
Wheelbarrow Riots, 206
Wheelbarrows, 133
Widow's Monument, 31
' ' Willow-pattern ' ' Tea
House, 117
Wood-carving, xx, 13, 98
Woo Sing Ding, 116
Woosung, 132
— Hotel, 133
— Railway, 132
Wusieh, 141
Yacht Club, 185
Yamen, City Lieu-
tenant's, 123
— Taotai's, 33
Yang-king-pang Creek,
11,94
Yangtszekiang, 134
Yates, Dr., 147
Young Men's Christian
Association, 169
Yu Yuen Gardens, 34,
ISS
Zi-Ka-Wei (see Siccawei)
Zen Sung Aye, 27
Zung Au Aye, 35
— Che Dong, 17
— Wong Miao, 119
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Who go to Shanghai will find
the
CENTRAL HOTEL
BY FAR THE MOST CONVENIENT
AND COMFORTABLE AS IT IS IN
THE CENTRE OF EVERYTHING
- IN SHANGHAI -
Banks, Custom House, Shipping
Offices, Public Gardens, Clubs,
Theatre, Concert^rooms, and all
First « Class Stores are grouped
'- within a few yards of the <"
CENTRAL HOTEL
Now under reconstruction on the most
modern plans.
HOTEL dii HORD,
HA=TA MEN STREET,
Every Contfort for Visitors.
EXCELLENT WINES
and
CUISINE.
Travellers to
PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL
SUPPLIED WITH
COMPLETE OUTFITS.
BEACH HOTEL,
** CHEFOO. **
q-'fllf) f IR§T-CIsfi§§ tlOTeis is beautifullg
situated on thjz Spach and commands
extensive vipws on all sidgs of the spa and
mountain sefznizrg for which Chefoo is
famous.
GAS LIGHTING THROUGHOUT.
COMFORTABLE
ROOMS.
Spacious Verandahs and
Terrace.
TENNIS AND BATHING
R. PEREZ,
Proprietor.
OCEAN STEAM SHIP COMPANY, u «™.
AND
CHINA MUTUAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
JOINT SERVXCES. LIMITED
FORTNICHTLY SAILINGS FOR LONDON AND CONTINENT.
MONTHLY SAILINGS FOR LIVERPOOL.
Taking cargo on Through Bills of Lading for all EUROPEAN,
NORTH and SOUTH AMERICAN, WEST AUSTRALIAN
JAVA, and SUMATRA PORTS.
Weekly Sailings for KOBE and YOKOHAMA.
BUJTERFIELD & SWIRE, Agents (French bund).
CHINA NAVIGATION COMPANY, LIMITED.
COAST STEAM SHIP SERVICE.
Semi-weekly Sailings from SHANGHAI for AMOY,
SWATOW, HONG KONG, and CANTON.
Steamers leave SHANGHAI for WEI HAI WEI, CHEFOO,
TIENSTIN, and NEWCHWANG Three Times a Week.
Daily connection between CHEFOO and PORT ARTHUR.
YANGTSZE RIVER SERVICE.
Company's Steamers leave SHANGHAI every WEDNESDAY
and SATURDAY at midnight, for HANKOW, calling en route
at TUNGCHOW, KIANGYIN, CHINKIANG, NANKIN,
WUHU, TATUNG, NGANKIN, KIUKIANG, WUSUEH,
WONG-SHE-KONG, and HWANGCHOW.
Steamers connect at HANKOW for YOCHOW, SHASI
and ICHANG.
NINGPO LINE.
Steamers leave SHANGHAI for NINGPO every MONDAY,
WEDNESDAY, and FRIDAY Afternoon at 4 o'clock, and
NINGPO for SHANGHAI every TUESDAY, THURSDAY,
and SATURDAY.
AUSTRALIAN LINE.
Company's Steamers leave HONG KONG once every Three
Weeks for PORT DARWIN, THURSDAY ISLAND, COOK-
TOWN, CAIRNS, TOWNSVILLE, BRISBANE, SYDNEY,
and MELBOURNE.
PHILIPPINE SERVICE.
Sailings from HONG KONG to MANILA, and vice versa,
once every five days.
Sailings from HONG KONG to CEBU and ILOILO, and
vice versa about once every Ten Days.
BUTTERFIELD & SWIRE, Agents (french bund).
NIPPON YUSEN KAISHA.
(JAPAN MAIL STEAMSHIP CO.)
Under Contract with the IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT OF JAPAN
for the conveyance of MAILS.
Fleet, 79 a-^r^ Tonnage
Vessels. 3&II^ 258,857 Tons.
FOREIGN
European Line
American Line
Bombay Line
Australian Line
Yokohama- Shanghai
Line
Koke - Vladivostock
Line
Kobe - Korea - North
China Line
Kobe - Tientsin Line
Koke - New chwang
Line
LINES.
Fortnightly.
Fortnightly.
Every 4 Weeks.
Every 4 Weeks.
Weekly.
Fortnightly.
Fortnightly.
Fortnightly.
Fortnightly.
HOME LINES.
Kobe-Yokohama-Otaru Line :—
Via Eastern Coast Every 3 days.
Yokohama-Kobe-Otaru Line : —
Via Western Coast 4 times a month.
Bonin Islands Line Monthly.
Besides these there are frequent ser-
vices between coast ports of Japan.
Cheapest Rates for Round-the-World Tickets.
ROUND-THE-WORLD TICKETS ARE ISSUED VIA THE FOLLOWING ROUTES :— From
Hongkong, Shanghai or Japan ports to Seattle, Wash., by N. Y. K, American
Line Steamers, thence to New York or Montreal by the Line of the Great Northern.
Railway Co. and connecting roads ; from New York or Montreal and thence to
London by any of the Atlantic Liners, from London back to the Orient via Suez
by N. Y. K. European Liners ; or vice versa.
Via NEW YORK
Via MONTREAL
Yen 920
Yen 890
SPECIAL FACILITIES.
The attention of the travelling public is called particularly to the special
advantage that passengers travelling by the steamers of the N. Y. K. will enjoy in
having the option of travelling between Japan ports and Hongkong by any of the
steamers on the Company's numerous services which sail frequently between
Japan, Shanghai, and Hongkong.
Another special facility is offered by the Nippon Yusen Kaisha which is offered
by no other steamship lines touching Japan. Through passengers will be given
the option of travelling between Kobe and Moji and vice versa by the Sanya
Railway, by which, if they choose, they can economise time and break the sea
journey.
Head Office: TOKIO, JAPAN.
Branch Offices or Agencies in Principal Ports of the World.
For further information apply to—
THE NIPPON YUSEN KAISHA,
2, North Yangtze Road, SHANGHAI..
Ttie Peninsular and
Oriental Stearn
Navigation Company.
Incorporated by Royal Charter in 1840.
Fortnightly Mail Service from China to Marseilles and
London. Fortnightly and Intermediate to London Direct
PORTS OF CALL BY THE COMPANY'S STEAMERS.
Aden, Colombo, Kobe, Nagasaki, Singapore,
Bombay, Freemantle, Malta, Penang, Suez, Brin-
disi, Gibraltar, Marseilles, Port Said, Sydney,
Calcutta, Hongkong, Melbourne, Shanghai, Yoko-
hama, and occasionally at Madras, Foochow,
Amoy.
ROUND THE WORLD TOURS.
Cargo booked on Through Bill of Lading to Northern Con-
tinental Ports, United States of America, [Canada, South
America, Persia, 'Batoum, Mediterranean Ports, Indian Coast,
Syria, Java, Sumatra, Burmah, Australian, Tasmanian and
New Zealand Ports, etc., etc.
For full particulars apply at the —
Peninsular and Oriental Company's Offices:
24, THE BUND,
SHANGHAI.
HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI
BANKING CORPORATION.
Paid-up Capital
RESERVE FUND.
Reserve in Sterling - $10,000,000)
„ Silver - 7,000,000*
„ Liability of Proprietors
$10,000,000
$17,000,000
10,000,000
Head Office : HONGKONG.
Chief Manager- J. R. M. SMITH.
LONDON :
Sir EWEN CAMERON, K.C.M.Q.
M. TOWNSEND.
SHANGHAI:
Manager- H. M. BE VIS.
( Sir
Managers < .
BRANCHES AND AGENCIES.
AMOY.
HAMBURG.
MANILA.
SAN FRANCISCO.
BANGKOK.
HANKOW.
NAGASAKI.
SHANGHAI.
BATAVIA.
HIOGO.
NEW YORK.
SINGAPORE.
BOMBAY.
HONGKONG.
PEKING.
SOURABAYA.
CALCUTTA
ILOILO.
PENANG.
TIENTSIN.
COLOMBO.
LONDON.
RANGOON.
YOKOHAMA
FOOCHOW.
LYONS.
SAIGON.
London Bank ers : LONDON & COUNTY BANK INC CO., Ltd.
SHANGHAI. — Interest allowed on Current Accounts at the
rate of 2 per cent, per annum on the daily balances.
On Fixed Deposits :
For 3 months 3 per cent, per annum.
i, 6 „ 4 „ ,,
,, 12 ,, ... ■■■ --. ■■■ ■•■ 5 J) "
LOCAL BILLS DISCOUNTED.
Credits granted on approved Securities, and every description of
Banking and Exchange business transacted.
Drafts granted on London and the chief commercial places in Europe,
India, Australia, America, China, and Japan.
SHANGHAI,
March is/, 1904.
CHARTERED BANK OF INDIA,
AUSTRALIA AND CHINA.
Head Office:—
HATTON COURT, THREADNEEDLE STREET, LONDON.
INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER.
PAID UP CAPITAL, in 40,0
RESERVE FOND ...
Shares of JE20 each
£800,000
£800,000
Court of SHrectora, 1904-1905.
William Christian, Esq.
Sir Henry S. Cunningham,
K.C.I.E.
Sir Alfred Dent, K.C.M.G.
Henry Neville Gladstone.
Caleb Lewis.
John Howard Gwyther, Esq..
Emile Levita, Esq.
Sir Montagu C Turner.
Lewis A. Wallace, Jun., Esq..
Jasper Young, Esq.
/nbanagers.
T. H. Whitehead.
Magnus Mow at, Esq.
auditors.
Maurice Nelson Girdle- j
stone, Esq. |
JBanfcers.
THE BANK OF ENGLAND.
THE LONDON CITY & MIDLAND BANK, LIMITED.
THE NATIONAL BANK OF SCOTLAND, LIMITED.
agencies ano JBrancbes.
BANGKOK.
IPOH.
RANGOON.
BATAVIA.
KOBE.
SHANGHAI.
BOMBAY.
KWALA LUMPOR.
SAIGON
CALCUTTA.
MADRAS.
SINGAPORE.
CEBU.
COLOMBO.
MANILA.
MEDAN.
SOURABAYA
F00CH0W.
NEW YORK
THAIPING.
HANKOW.
(16, Exchange Place).
TIENTSIN.
HONGKONG.
PENANG.
YOKOHAMA.
E.
B. SKOTTOWE, Manager.
SHANGHAI.
16
RussoXhinese Bank.
Organised under Imperial Decree of 10th December, 1895.
CAPITAL Roubles 15,000,000
CAPITAL contributed
by Chinese Govern-
ment K. Taels 5,000,000
RESERVE FUNDS ... Roubles 3,977,462
Head Office: ST. PETERSBURG.
Branches and Agencies:
Andijan, Batoum, Blagowestehensk, Bodaibo,
Boukhara, Busk, Calcutta, Chefoo, Dalny, Hailar,
Hakodate, Hankow, Harbin, Hongkong, Irkutsk,
Kalgan, Kaehgar, Khabarovsk, Khokand,
Kiaehta, Kirin, Kobe, Kouldja, Krasnoiarsk,
Kwantchendze, Moscou, Moukden, Nagasaki,
Newehwang, Nieolajeffsk, Ouliasutai, Oupga,
Paris, Peking, Port Arthur, Samareand, Shang-
hai, Stretensk, Taehkent, Tchita, Thougoutehak,
Tielin, Tientsin, Tsitsikar, Verehneoudinsk, Ver-
niyy Vladivostoek, Yokohama, and Zeiskaia-
Pristan.
Bankers :
LONDON— Qlyn, Mills, Currie & Co.
PARIS— Comptoir National d'Escompte de Paris, Banque
de Paris et des Pays Bas.
BERLIN— Mendelssohn & Co.
HAMBURG— M. M. Warburg & Co.
VIENNA— K. K. priv. Oesterr. Credit Anstalt fur Handel &
Qewerbe.
AMSTERDAM— Lippmann, Rosenthal & Co.
LOCAL BILLS DISCOUNTED.
Special facilities for Russian Exchange.
Foreign exchange on the principal cities of the world bought and sold.
CH. R. WEHRUNG.
W. DROSEMEIER,
J. C. BERGEN DAHL.
Go-Managers for China and Japan.
Shanghai Office: 15, THE BUND.
THE YOKOHAMA SPECIE BANK, LD.
(Established 1880).
Head Office: YOKOHAMA, JAPAN.
SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL ... Yen 24,000,000
PAID-UP CAPITAL Yen 18,000,000
RESERVE FUND Yen 9,320,000
London Bankers.
Union of London and Smith's Bank, Ld.,
The London Joint Stock Bank, Ld.
Parr's Bank, Ld.
Branches and Agencies.
Tokio, Kobe, Nagasaki, Lyons, London, New York,
San Francisco, Honolulu, Bombay, Hongkong,
Tientsin, Peking, Newchwang, etc.
Shanghai Branch.
INTEREST allowed on current account at the rate of 2 per cent, per
annum on the daily balance of over two hundred taels.
On Fixed Deposits:
For 3 months, 3J per cent, per annum.
„ 6 „ *i „
„ 12 „ 5J „
Drafts granted on principal places in Japan, Corea, Formosa, and China,
.and the chief commercial places in Europe, India, and America, and every
description of exchange business transacted.
S. CHOH, Manager,
SHANGHAI.
March 10th, 1904.
BANQUE DE L'INDO-CHINE.
Organised under Decrees of 21st January, 1875; 20th February, 1888 ;
and 16th May, 1900.
CAPITAL Frs. 24,000,000
RESERVES „ 3,607,603
SPECIAL RESERVE „ 4,800,000
Head Office: 15 BIS, RUE LAFFITTE, PARIS.
Chairman; M. LE BARON HELY D'OISSEL.
Saigon.
Haiphong
Hanoi.
Tourane.
AGENCIES AND BRANCHES.
Pnom-Penh. Hankeou. ,
Noumea. Canton.
Hongkong. Bangkok.
Shanghai. Pondiehery.
BANKERS.
In France.
Comptoir National d'Eseompte de Paris.
Credit Lyonnais.
Banque de Paris et des Pays-Bas.
Credit Industriel et Commercial.
Soeiete Generate.
Paris.
Messrs. Vernes & Co,
„ Hottinguer & Co.
„ Mallet Freres & Co.
„ de Neuflize & Co.
„ Miraband Puerari & Co.
In London.
The Union of London and Smith's Bank, Ld.
Comptoir National d'Eseompte de Paris.
Credit Lyonnais.
SHANGHAI AGENCY.
Undertakes all banking operations and Exchange business, grants credits on
goods and approved Securities and receives Deposits on current accounts and
Fixed Deposits according to arrangement.
Remington Typewriters
do not depend on catchy talking points. They owe their
supremacy solely to results, the amount and quality of the
work they do, and the ease and speed with which they do it.
MUSTARD & CO.,
Distributors for North China,
S. MOUTRIE & CO.,
ESTABLISHED 1875. Limited.
Pian o forte Man ufacturers
And Importers of
HIGH-CLASS PIANOS & ORGANS.
Sole Agents for
PIANOS by
JOHN BRINSMEAD & SONS, Ltd., LONDON.
JOHN BROADWOOD & SONS, Ltd., LONDON.
COLLARD & COLLARD, LONDON.
HOOFF & CO., BERLIN.
KOCK. & KORSELT, REICHENBERG.
PLEYEL, WOLFF, LYON & CO., PARIS.
M. F. RACHALS & CO., HAMBURG.
E. ROSENKRANZ, DRESDEN.
ORGANS b y
THE CLOUGH & WARREN CO., DETROIT, U.S.A.
THE CABLE CO., CHICAGO.
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS by
MAHILLON & CO., BRUSSELS.
THE GRAMOPHONE & TYPEWRITER, Ltd., LONDON.
THE VICTOR TALKING MACHINE CO.,
PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.
Price Lists forwarded on Application.
S. MOUTRIE & CO., Limited.
The Pianoforte and Music Warehouse,
SHANGHAI, TIENTSIN, and HONQ KONG.
^
\ \ \ ENGLISH
\ * Q o f% AND
\ \ k \ AM ERICAN
o
o
^ <■.
V o ■
\£\ Proprietary
Medicines
V
PIVER'S \\y M
Houbigants \\\ A "
i-a^e o <IS Q o A Speciality.
Assortment °Q V*^ °
- \ V \
Q ^«A c „ Prescriptions
°a Dispensed
ROGER \ e \
q Qualified
* \C
QALLETS \'o\ Chem,s!s
Perfumes \ y>
ALWAYS Q>
Q Only.
o
o
<5
\
\
MEDICAL HALUVV
^
.STOCK. \\JV^ f
o
<5
\ V \
Mactavish 8 Lehmann,
DISPENSING CHEMISTS,
AERATED WATER MANUFACTURERS,
Wholesale & Retail Druggists.
PRESCRIPTIONS ACCURATELY DISPENSED.
Importers of: —
DRUGGISTS' SUNDRIES,
PERFUMERY (English, French, and American),
SURGICAL INSTRUMENTS,
PHOTOGRAPHIC APPARATUS,
WINES, SPIRITS, and CIGARS.
PHOTOGRAPHIC REQUISITES.
STAND CAMERAS, HAND CAMERAS,
KODAKS,
PLATES, FILMS, PRINTING PAPERS, ALBUMS,
MOUNTS, DEVELOPERS,
And Accessories for every Branch of Photography.
A FRESH SUPPLY OF FILMS RECEIVED MONTHLY.
DARK ROOM for Amateurs at Hongkew Medical Hall.
MACTAVISH & LEHMANN,
No. I, THE BUND,
AND
HONGKEW MEDICAL HALL.
THE SHANGHAI HORSE BAZAAR
COMPANY, LIMITED.
Has Extensive Premises on the
BUBBLING WELL ROAD
(Near the Race Course),
With Branch Establishments in the
FOOCHOW ROAD
(Central Stables),
HANBURY ROAD
and CORDON ROAD.
CARRIAGES FOR HIRE
(ON DAILY OR MONTHLY TERMS).
PONIES AND HORSES KEPT ON LIVERY.
CARRIAGE FACTORY
(WHERE CARRIAGES ARE BUILT TO ORDER
AND REPAIRED).
SHO tU Ro om.
Saddlery, Pony Clothing & Stable Requisites.
HARNESS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION
MADE TO ORDER.
Telephone Communications with all the Principal Hotels.
THE
Robinson Piano Co.,
Ltd.,
17, NANKING ROAD,
SHANGHAI.
Largest
MANUFACTURERS 8 DEALERS
in "the East.
PiaN©S F©R HIRE.
Complete Stock of
MUSIC,
STRINGS,
And FITTING!
Telephone 868.
fl. 5. Watson & Co., Ltd.,
Shanghai Pharmacy, 16, Nanking Road
(Branch of The Hongkong Dispensary, Hongkong),
<# Chemists, Perfumers, and Druggists' Sundrymet). £
WINES, SPIRITS, AND CIGARS OF THE BEST QUALITIES.
(Price Lists on application.)
HONGKONG DISPENSARY'S CELEBRATED AERATED WATERS
(made in Hongkong).
QUALIFIED ENGLISH ASSISTANTS ONLY
employed in the dispensing of Physicians' Prescriptions.
> » * ■» C
A Full and Varied Stock of
American and Continental Patent Medicines,
Perfumes, Medicated and Toilet Soaps,
Surgical Dressings and Appliances,
Medicated Lozenges.
Sponges = 1baic JBrusbes == XTootb JBrusbes * 1bano Mirrors
mall 3Brusbes » Clotbes JBrusbes == Sbaving JSrusbes.
SUN GLASSES.
SCRUBB'S AMMONIA.
A Big Variety of Toilet Preparations.
Burroughs, Wellcome & Co. ; s Tabloids and Preparations.
McKesson & Robbin's Gelatine Coated Pills.
GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE.
Ulinsor $ Rtwton's Oil $ Ulatcr Colours, etc,
NATURAL MINERAL WATERS.
(HUNYADI, RUBINAT, APENTA, FREIDRICHSHALL, VlCHY, ETC.)
> •'» < -
A. S. WATSON «Sc Co., Ltd.,
SHANGHAI.
Chinese Name : — Hung Chi. Telephone No, 414.
The Standard Pharmacy
575, Nanking Road.
PURE DRUGS AND CHEMICALS,
BRITISH, AMERICAN AND CONTINENTAL
PATENT MEDICINES.
Physicians' prescriptions carefully dispensed by qualified
Assistants only.
PROPRIETARIES—
ALLAN'S CHLOR.OS an improved cornTrenjedy.
ALLAN'S PECTORAL COUGH LINCTUS.
ALLAN'S TARAXACUM AND PODOPHYLLIN,
an improved combination.
ALLAN'S NUTRITIVE HAIR WASH.
&c, &c, &c.
Perfumery and Toilet Requisites,
Druggists Sundries
and
Sick=room Accessories.
All orders and inquiries promptly attended [to,
ALEXANDER ALLAN,
DISPENSING AND FAMILY CHEMIST.
A. Chazalon & Co.
HONGKONG, HANKOW, TIENTSIN, CHEFOO, PORT ARTHUR.
Paris : — 14, rue des Messageries.
GENERAL STOREKEEPER,
WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANT,
NAVY CONTRACTOR,
Tobacconist, General Forwarding:
and Commission Agent.
Sole Agent
WHISKY . .
GIN
COGNAC . .
RUM
WINE . . .
LIQUEURS. .
CHAMPAGNES
for
J. Buchanan & Co.: House of Commons.
J. & S. Nicholson & Son : Old Tom.
J. Nicot & Co.
Pastureau Freres et Fils : Black Head
Rum.
No. 75 Jamaica Rum.
Galibert Varon,
Cette :
Port, Sherry,
Speciality,
BEER.
PRESERVES
Galibert & Varon :
Les Neveux de
Bordeaux.
Paul Court, Dijon.
P. Taillan & Co.,
and Liqueurs.
A. Droz & Co., Bordeaux.
Cocoa chouva.
Duminy & Co., Ay s/Marne.
Veuve Cliquot, Ponsardin.
Werle & Co.
Louis Roederer, Reims.
Bouvet, Ladubay & Co., Saumur.
Gregorbrau.
Pschoor, Munich.
Brasserie du Centre, Clermont-Ferrand.
Bass & Co. : Pale Ale and Stout.
Rodel Fils Freres, Bordeaux.
J. B. & A. Artaud Freres, Marseilles.
L. A. Price, Bordeaux.
12 GOLD MEDALS ?J§§ffiK3!§ 5 SILVER MEDALS
BY APPOINTMENT.
KUHN <S CO.
(Established 1869.)
^ 33, Kiangse Road, Shanghai. ■#
Next door to Messrs. Weeks & Co.
FINE ART CURIO DEALERS.
Comprising- —
Gold Lacquer, Hammered and Inlaid Metal Work, Ivory Carvings,
Lacquer and Inlaid Cabinets, Bronze Wares, Screens, Cloisonnes,
Japanese Carved Wood Furniture, Kimonos, Ladies Drawn Work,
and Fancy Blouses, Table Centres, Silverware (Japanese) of every
description, Gongs, Embroideries, Satsuma and other Porcelains,
Etc- Etc.
Goods purchased at our establishment are packed free
of charge and forwarded to all parts of the world.
L. Moore & Co.
(ESTABLISHED 1874)
AUCTIONEERS, VALUERS, COMMISSION
AGENTS, ETC.
Excellent Salesrooms, for
The Exhibition of Goods to be sold, at
35, Kiangse Road.
PERIODICAL AUCTIONS of ART PRODUCTS of CHINA
and JAPAN. A SPECIALITY.
Goods bought on Commission and forwarded to all parts of
the world.
The oldest established firm of General Auctioneers
in Shanghai.
THE
NIPPON EMPORIUM
(Established 1892).
DEALERS IN
Japanese Art*<2urios,
AGENTS FOR
Various Borne Manufacturers*
EXTRA QUALITY.
PRICE MODERATE.
ALWAYS ON HAND.
A38, Nanking Road, SHANGHAI.
CHEONG SHING,
3eux1ler, Gold- and SilccrSmitD.
DEALER IN
Silks of all kinds, "Embroideries,
Silk Handkerchiefs, and Silk Dress Materials, etc.
PORCELAIN AND LACQUERED WARES,
Also European Ornamental Blackwood Furnitures,
CHINESE CURIOS.
Ivory and Fancy Goods in Great Variety
always on hand.
ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO.
No. 21, Nanking Road, SHANGHAI.
KELLY&WALSH
(LIMITED),
Have for Sale a Large Selection of
POST CARDS,
Comprising a very Complete Assortment of
SHANGHAI VIEWS,
AND
Hand-Painted Japanese Studies.
SHANGHAI UNDER SNOW
A HANDSOME ALBUM OF
12 Whole Plate Collotype Views
OF
YABIOUS PARTS OF THE SETTLEMENT,
And containing the following:—
THE BUND (looking South).
THE SHANGHAI CLUB.
THE PUBLIC GARDENS (Three Views).
HOLY TRINITY CATHEDRAL.
THE MALOO
THE GRA.ID STAND, RACE CLUB.
THE COUNTRY CLUB.
THE COUNTRY CLUB GARDEN.
THE BUBBLING-WELL ROAD.
THE CHINESE PUBLIC GARDENS.
Price $3.00.
KELLY & WALSH (Limited), Publishers.
KELLY Sl HiTBXiSII,
Limited,
IMPORTERS OF THE CHOICEST BRANDS OP
Manila & Havana Cigars,
TOBACCOS, and CIGARETTES.
MANILA CIGARS, AND CHEROOTS.
Reina Victorias.
High Life in the East.
Estrellas.
Princessas.
Entractos.
Nuevo Cortado.
Nuevo Habano.
Londres.
Regalia Chicas.
Senoritas.
By dint of special and careful selection on the part of our Agents in the
Philippine Islands, and natural instead of artificial seasoning, we have long
held and maintained the very best reputation for the excellence of our
Manila Cigars.
HAVANA CIGARS.
Churrucas-Bock y Ca's— Henry Upman's.
Imported direct from Cuba in small quantities and frequent shipments
to ensure freshness.
TOBACCOS.
Ardath.
Smith's Glasgow Mixture.
Craven Mixture.
Capstan Navy Cut.
Golden Honey Dew.
Superb Gold Flake.
CIGARETTES.
Melanchrinos— Nos. 2, 4, 6,
8, 10, 14.
Quo Vadis.
Waldorf Cigarillos.
Ogden's Guinea Gold.
Wills' Three Castles.
State Express.
Astorias.
All in hermetically sealed , Tins.
PIPES AND SMOKERS' GOODS.
We have always on hand a large assortment of Briar Pipes in a variety
of patterns, including L'oewe's BBB own make, and other well-known
brands. Cigar and Cigarette Tubes in Amber, and Meerschaum with
Amber Mouth-pieces, Cigar and Cigarette Cases, Pouches, etc.
KELLY & WALSH, Ltd, SHANGHAI.
__J I I (lEWCtMtTEBil
nr Sr
CENTRAL DISTRICT.
NORTH & SOUTH.
BUND OR YANGTSZB ROAD
CHEK1ANG ROAD
CHIHLI ROAD
FOK1EN ROAD
HON AN ROAD
'in ROAD
KIANO FUN LOONO
KIANGSE ROAD
KIEN K1E LEE
KOO KA LOONO
KI'NH MAE LEE
KWANGSE ROAD
KWEI CHOW ROAD
LLOYD ROAD
LOONG ZE YUEN
MUSEUM ROAD
8HAN8E ROAD
SHANTUNG ROAD
B[NG YONO KA
BZECHUEN ROAD
THIBET ROAD
T8ING YO KA
WOO FOO LOONG
YUEN MING YUEN ROAD
YUNNAN ROAD
EAST & WEST.
AMOY ROAD
CANTON KOAD
CHEFOO ROAD
FOOCHOW ROAD
HANKOW ROAD
HIANG FUN LOONG
BONG KONG ROAD
JIN KEE ROAD
KING LOONG KA
KIUKIANG ROAD
HALOO OR NANKING ROAD
NEWCHWANG ROAD
NINGPO ROAD'
NORTH WOORIEH ROAD
PAKHOl ROAD
PEKING ROAD
SE-GE-BAE KA
BIKING ROAD
BOOCHOW ROAD
SOUTH W006IEH ROAD
8UNGK1ANG KOAD
BUN TONG LOONG
8WATOW ROAD
TAIWAN ROAD
TIENTSIN ROAD
TONG UE BAE KA
WUHU ROAD
WESTERN DISTRICT.
NORTH & SOUTH. EAST & WEST.
CARTER ROAD
CHONG KING ROAD
OROBS ROAD
FERRY ROAD
GORDON HOAD
KIAO CHIAO ROAD
MARKHAM BOAD
MOHAWK ROAD
PARK ROAD
WENCHOW ROAD
YATES ROAD
AVENUE ROAD
BURBLING WELL ROAD
GREAT WESTERN ROAD
PINOHIAOW ROAD
BEOU ZAR KIANG
K1NZA ROAD
TAKU ROAD
WEI HAI WEI ROAD
LIST OF STREETS.
NORTHERN DISTRICT.
NORTH & SOUTH.
AKTOR ROAD
CHAPOO ROAD
FEARON ROAD
HANNEN ROAD
HAHT ROAD
KANSOH ROAD
MILLER ROAD
MINOHONG ROAD
NANZING ROAD
NORTH CHEKIANG ROAD
NORTH FOKIEN ROAD
NORTH HONAN ROAD
NORTH KIANGSE ROAD
NORTH 8HANSE ROAD
NORTH SZECHUEN ROAD
NORTH THIBET ROAD
PARK LANE
PURDON ROAD
WEST END LANE
WINCHESTER ROAD
WOOOHANG ROAD
WOOSUNG ROAD
EAST & WEST.
ALABASTER ROAD
BOONE ROAD
BROADWAY
ELGIN ROAD
HAINING ROAD
HANBURY ROAD
MORRISON ROAD
NORTH SOOCHOW ROAD
NORTH YANGT8ZE ROAD
QUIN8AN ROAD
RIFLE RANGE ROAD
BCOTT ROAD
SEWARD ROAD
THORNE ROAD
TIENDONG ROAD
TONG DONG KA LOONG
T8EPOO ROAD
T8UNG MING ROAD
WHANGPOO ROAD
YUHANG ROAD
OUTSIDE ROADS.
NORTH & SOUTH.
BEZAIRK, AVENUE DE
DUBAIL, ROUTE
HASKELL ROAD
NANTAO BUND
PICHON, ROUTE
POTTIER, ROUTE
RAILWAY ROAD
8AYZOUNG, ROUTE DB
S0EUR8, ROUTE DE8
ZIKAWEI ROAD
EAST & WEST.
DOUMER, ROUTE
GREAT WESTERN ROAD
JEB8FIELD ROAD
PAUL BRUNAT, AVENUE
ROBISON ROAD
STANISLAS CHEVALIER,
ROUTE
ZIKAWEI, ROUTE
FRANQA18E DE
A MAP OF
EASTERN DISTRICT.
NORTH & SOUTH.
ALCOCK ROAD
ANSEN ROAD
BIRT'8 LANE
CHAOUFOONG ROAD
CHU8AN ROAD
DENT ROAD
EWO ROAD
HWAKEE ROAD
KUNO PING ROAD
KEE CHEONG ROAD
LAY ROAD
MAOGREGOR ROAD
MUIRHEAD ROAD
PANGHOE LOONG
SINGKEI PANG ROAD
TAIPING ROAD
THORBURY ROAD
WETMORE ROAD
YUENCHANG ROAD
YUENFONG ROAD
EAST & WEST.
BROADWAY
HANBURY ROAD
MARKET STREET
SEWARD ROAD
YANOTBZEPOO ROAD
YUHANG ROAD
FRENCH SETTLEMENT.
NORTH & SOUTH.
DISCRY, RUE
FRANCE, QUAI DE
GUERRE, RUE LA
HUE, RUE
L'ADMINISTKATION, RUE D
MONTAUBAN, RUE
MOULIN, RUE DU
NEW CEMETERY ROAD
PALIKAO, RUE
PEKE8, RUE DES
PETIT, ROE
PORTE DU NORD, Rl'E
FliOTET, RUE
SAldoN, ROE DE
TOUKANNE. RUE
WAMPOO, QUAI DU
EAST & W T EST.
BRECHE, QUAI DE LA
COLBERT, RUE
CONSULAT, RUE DU
FOSSES, QUAI DES
NINGPO, RUE DE
PAUL BRUNAT, AVENUE
WEIKWE, RUE DV
THE FOREIGN SETTLEMENTS AT
SHANGHAI
1904
Scale. 900 Feet to one Inch
6h>ti ford's (rtopraptncal tstublu}tmenL,Lc»iAi»t
STANDARD'S /
Agents
Hong Kong:
Dodwell & Co., Ltd.
THE
\ STANDARD'S
Agents
Manila:
Messrs. Stevenson & Co.
STANDARD LIFE OFFICE
(ESTABLISHED 1825.)
SPECIAL ADVANTAGES.
are afforded by THE STANDARD to Assurers in the Far East.
Among others are the following : —
(i). Immediate acceptance and issue of Policy. No
provisional acceptance or reference to Head Office.
(2). Claims and Surrenders paid, and LOANS
ADVANCED on the spot without reference
home.
(3). Liberal Paid-up Policies, Surrender and Loan
values granted after three years.
(4). Immediate reduction to Home Rates without
medical examination upon leaving the East either
permanently or for a short period.
(5). Exceptionally liberal conditions for payment of
premiums in arrear. Premiums on 5 year old.
„,f»$ policies accepted within 13 months from due date
\' without fine, interest alone being charged.
(6). Premiums may be paid in half-yearly or quarterly
instalments without any addition.
For full particulars and a copy of the Company's
Prospectus.
Apply to —
THE SECRETARY,
Standard Life Office,
Shanghai.
STANDARD'S
Agents
Kobe:
Dodwell & Co.,
Ltd.
Compare our Rates
with those of other
companies, before ,
\ assuring- elsewhere! / Dodwell & Co., Ltd,
STANDARD'S
Agents
Yokohama:
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